What I don't understand is receiving something other than than what you ordered and paid for, then keeping it. Sounds like false advertisement, an awful misunderstanding, or you didn't receive what you paid for. Maybe I missed something in there but wanted to point out the possibility you may still have recourse. I don't see having to fight the soil for the rest of forever. Incorporating organic matter is something you will have to do anyway, but how much amending will this soil need? If you can achieve the ideal concert of clay, sand, and silt, then why not do it now? Just till in what isn't already there. I think this is one instance I would recommend tilling because the soil is new as it is. Additionally, you get to kill two birds with one stone by turning over the crappy lawn rather than having to kill it off with chemicals. The answer to your question is yes.

Calshaye - I think to identify the problem we need to see the pics of your algae and Powdery Mildew. Something doesn't ring right. Powdery mildew on perlite? I can imagine some fuzzy mold on perlite, but not PM. PM looks like somebody sprinkled your leaves with fine white powder. You will not be able to see it on perlite no matter what. If it is a fuzzy mold, not PM - it is harmless - and replacing the soil on the surface is probably the max you need to do. Algae - if you have it - no reasonable amount of Physan is going to kill it. Very concentrated Physan probably will - but your plants will be killed first. It is mostly harmless, it consumes the fertilizer to some extent and it is absolutely bad if you are trying to grow something from seeds.It will choke them. otherwise - replacing the top layer of the soil is probably the most you need to do - or just leave it alone. How much fertilizer you put in your water? What is the brand of your 7:7:7? It would be really helpful if you take pics, if you have trouble posting them here - send them directly to me - if you click on my name - Gardenweb will give an option to send an email. Good Luck and so far do not do anything. Irina

You can start over now with some things, but I wouldn't plant beans right now. Beans suffer from blossom drop at roughly the same temperatures that tomatoes do, and those temperatures tend to arrive in June, if not earlier. Those sorts of temperatures already have arrived at my house (and likely yours as well). We hit 98 degrees yesterday, and there's not a bean variety that I've ever grown that will set beans once the high temperatures are in the upper 90s and above. The bush beans I planted in early Spring have produced well and still have a few beans on them that likely set last week. After I harvest those in a couple of days, I'll yank out the bean plants and plant winter squash there so that I can get production out of that section of the garden. My pole beans still are setting new beans (though that may have ended yesterday) at a pretty decent rate so I'll leave them a little longer to see how they do. I am growing a pole bean variety that was bred to tolerate higher temperatures and still set beans, but I think that now we are getting too hot even for it. If you want another round of beans, it would be better to plant them at the time recommended for a fall crop. I'll link the OSU Fall Garden Planning Guide below and please note that on one page it lists recommended planting dates for the warm-season crops for fall and on the next page it list the recommended planting dates for the cool-season crops for fall. The dates in the fall guide are opposite from the dates in the spring guide, so the earliest dates given are for NW OK and the latest dates for SE OK and everyone in between those two extreme corners of the state should choose a corresponding date from somewhere within that range of dates. I don't always abide by the fall planting dates, but when I deviate, I usually plant later than recommended instead of earlier. Planting fall garden crops earlier than recommended generally means the plants have to struggle through the worst part of the summer which can exhaust them before they even get a chance to produce. If you were to plant beans now instead of waiting a few more weeks to use the fall planting date, it is doubtful you'd get many, if any, beans to set in the hot temperatures, and the plants would have to endure hot temperatures, intense sunlight and pest attacks, particularly from spider mites. By waiting and planting at the recommended fall date, your bean plants will be fresh and strong with the temperatures fall back into the right temperature range for the blossoms to set beans. You could plant southern peas (pink eye purple hull, black-eyed, zipper, cream or lady peas) now and they'd produce just fine. The heat doesn't have a negative effect on them until your daytime highs are around 108-110. Cucumbers and okra should do well if planted now. I haven't even planted pickling cukes yet because I don't want to get too bogged down in making pickles before I finish up canning tomatoes and fruit jelly. I'm trying to control the flow of produce into the kitchen with a little later planting of some items. With cucumbers, as long as you keep their soil moist, their roots well-mulched or well-shaded and don't let cukes stay on the plants too long, the plants should produce all summer long. They often produce throughout the summer and deeply into the autumn for me. I haven't planted okra because I didn't plant the back garden at all, and that is where it was meant to go. When I harvest the mid-season corn from the front garden, I'll sow okra seeds there to fill in that space. Late plantings of okra produce great and for a long period of time. In the autumn as the temperatures really begin to fall, the okra plants will slow down their productivity and begin dropping their leaves, but that's usually not until at least late September. You have tons of time left to get okra. It grows amazingly fast in hot weather. I do not get overly concerned about tomato plants or pepper plants that don't look good after prolonged, heavy rainfall. They are prone to lots of fungal and bacterial diseases that can make the foliage look like crap. The recommended way to deal with that is to remove the diseased foliage and spray with the appropriate treatment for fungal or bacterial infections. Sometimes I do that, and sometimes I just shrug and say "oh well" and let them look like crap (and sometimes the plants eventually die) and keep on harvesting the tomatoes for as long as they last. If you don't think you're looking at a disease issue, try feeding them a complete and balanced fertilizer. Often, extremely heavy rainfall leaches nutrients out of the soil and the plants struggle to recover because their nutrition is poor. If ever there was a year when enough rain fell in a short period of time and leached nutrients out of the soil, May 2015 would be it. You also can plant new tomato plants (if there's still some healthy suckers on your current plants you can root them to start new plants) for a fall harvest. We have squash bugs here and I've been killing them with a vengeance but the dreaded SVBs haven't shown up yet, though I'm expecting them to arrive any time now. I also will plant new squash plants for fall after the current plants run out of steam. We are getting lots of summer squash, so even though the plants' color was poor when the rain ended, they are greening up nicely and are blooming and producing. Ditto on the drying up and the rainfall. Occasional grass fires are already occurring down here, on both the TX and OK sides of the river....in areas that were just flooded for so much of May. It is mind-blowing how quickly the moisture dries up in periods of high temperatures and no rainfall. I've watered selected portions of my garden twice this week, where young plants were planted only after the flooding rains ended and those plants don't have the deep roots yet that they need to get them through the hot weather. I plant pumpkins and winter squash, often several different rounds of them, any time from May through late July, often using them to fill in empty places in the garden after I harvest all of a crop and remove the plants. I grow Seminole (both the original for many years and now the new larger strain as well) every year. In a year when it is happy, which is probably 9 out of 10 years, it will produce until frost. Most C. moschatas survive attacks by squash bugs and squash vine borers so they often are the last warm-season plant left in the garden, long after all the others have finished up and been replaced by fall garden crops, flowers or a cover crop for winter. I also have grown Old Fashioned Tennessee Vining several times and it does okay here, but in my garden it is not nearly as productive as Seminole. You also could plant hot-season greens like malabar spinach, Egyptian spinach or New Zealand Spinach. Even Swiss Chard can tolerate hot temperatures if well-watered. In summer I tend to grow it at the shady west end of the garden where it only gets sun until about noon. As long as you can harvesting the outer leaves before they get too big and tough, it keeps putting out new leaves non-stop. Watermelons, muskmelons, cantaloupes and all the other miscellaneous melons will do just fine if planted now. While it seems late to be planting them, they grow quickly in hot weather as long as they have moist (not sopping wet) soil. There's tons of time left to get a lot of production out of your garden so don't be afraid to sow seeds and keep the garden full of productive plants. Lots of people harvest only the first round of produce and then give up when the heat arrives. I prefer to keep sowing succession crops of various types in order to keep the entire garden plot in full production to the greatest extent possible. Dawn OSU Fall Garden Planning Guide

It was June last year that I commented on this thread. Some updates: Falstaff was removed. I had enough after some serious pampering this spring without a single flower. I did love those (rare) flowers though. Madame Isaac Pereire died. It was in too dry a spot after all. My tears dried after putting my nose into Alnwick Castle. Evelyn. Moved to a sunnier position and they have taken off. Keeping them. Alexandra Duchesse de Luxembourg. My opinion hasn't changed. Doesn't thrill me. I don't hate it. From a distance it does catch the eye since the flowers are so large. She's in a holding pattern for now. Claire Austin was removed. I just didn't like yellow color fading to dirty newspaper color. Blech. Old Blush. it's still there. I'm getting used to those flowers with poor form and strident color. Pure Perfume. I discovered that they need more sun and water, but I have no place to move them to. Keeping them for now. Radio Times, moved to a pampered pot, grew a little, but never seems happy. Will not stay in my garden. William Shakespeare 2000. I discovered that the problem really is that they need more water. I may put them in pots. Off the chopping block. So I was somewhat right: some of the "eh" factor was due to cultural factors. But not all. These are now in the "eh" column: Sonia Rykiel. Flowers don't take the heat. Not very fragrant in my yard (maybe next year). Doesn't produce those glorious flowers that Fragrancenutter shows. Doesn't really want to grow. My second plant died and I've already replaced it with another Alnwick Castle. Dee-lish. Happy to grow, happy to bloom, lovely fragrance, but to my eye, not very pretty. Winchester Cathedral. It's there, it blooms well in the spring, with very short-lived flowers, then a few flowers here and there the rest of the summer. Weird fragrance. Doesn't wow me. In my garden it's just a nondescript white rose without a lot of flowers. Iceberg. I really like the fragrance, but after the spring show, the flower form is lost, and the leaves always look sickly yellow. I may replace them with Desdemona, or Bolero, or ...