What are you growing that you wouldn't grow again ?
Lilyfinch z9a Murrieta Ca
6 years ago
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jjpeace (zone 5b Canada)
6 years agoRelated Discussions
anything you couldn't/shouldn't/wouldn't grow in a 28'' wide bed?
Comments (34)Hi Lynn, I went to Camp Cuyamaca in 6th Grade, I still remember the Camp Song (YEA,YEA,YEA,YEA CUYAMACA ;-) Yes, Oregon Clay and yes, it loosens it real well, check out my video link below. BTW.. Also ..Yes , I use Decomposed granite for breaking up the Clay as well as for providing Micro-nutrients to the Beneficial herd. Decomposed granite is a rock powder and is an excellent amendment for clay soils. All rock powders are great sources of minerals and micronutrients. All growing soils need them. As the microbes and macrobes like earthworms, digest the insoluble minerals, they break down into the various soluble micronutrients that all forms of plants need. For example, limestone rocks are rich in calcium. Granite rocks are rich in potassium, etc. Seaweeds of course are the king of micronutrient fertilizers and soil amendments. There can be up to 70+ trace elements in seaweed. In locations where seaweed is not readily available; rock powders is one answer to the problem. Research continues to reveal that insoluble tiny particles like rock powder minerals, can be easily digested or absorbed via microbial activity, over time, into the anatomy of growing plants, thriving in the presence of rich organic compost, and other forms of powerful biostimulants like aerobic compost teas. Obviously a heavy clay soil is very difficult to initially dig, whereas a sandy loam is much easier. Heavy clay soils can be improved considerably by adding a lot of sawdust and mason's sand. DO NOT use beach or river sand! Mason's sand, being crushed granite, has sharp edges and actually loosens the soil. Here is a link that might be useful: Jon's Wonderful Soil 2010...See MoreWhat will you grow again next year?
Comments (30)Like Llaz, I had a challenging year; a few of my perennial favorites had to take a year off, to be replaced by shorter season alternatives. I'll list them all anyway. Snap beans: "Fortex". I also grow at least one other pole snap, including: "Emerite", "Pole 191" (a.k.a. white-seeded Kentucky Wonder), "Rattlesnake", or "Garafal Oro". Shell beans: "Ma Williams" (early pole) and/or "Bird Egg #3" (late pole) and/or "PI 507984" (very early bush). At least one of these, depending upon the weather. "PI 507984" proved itself this year, in a very short season. Dry beans: "Brita's Foot Long" or "Soissons Vert" (high yield, outstanding flavor) Sweet corn: "Miracle" hybrid (highly disease resistant, very large ears w/tight tip cover, great flavor) Summer squash: "Zucchetta Rampicante" (borer & disease resistant, excellent frozen quality) Eggplant: "Casper" and "Diamond" (cold & Verticillium resistant, high-yielding) Okra: "Pentagreen" (cold & Verticillium resistant, the only okra I can grow reliably this far North). Proved itself this year, with a short, cool Summer. Swiss chard: "Special Large White Ribbed" (flat leaves, easy to clean, very wide stalks) Other greens: Water spinach, Egyptian spinach, Moringa oleifera (tree grown as annual, high-protein leaves) Cucumber: "WI 5207" (highly disease resistant, parthenocarpic, good climber, great flavor) Tomatoes: "Sojourner South American" (very large red oxheart, prolific), "Elfin" (OP grape tomato, extremely prolific) Peppers: "Greygo" (very large cheese type, sweet, tender skin), "Beaver Dam" (large pointed Hungarian type, very early, medium hot), "Pizza" (highly prolific, gourmet green peppers just before frost, outstanding keeper) Soybeans: "Sapporo Midori" (edamame, early, very large seed) Pea: "Purple Podded Parsley" (table pea, purple pods) Watermelon: "Blacktail Mountain" (very early, high Brix, good keeper) Garlic: 10 varieties (mostly hardneck), plus Elephant Garlic & Pearl Onions (which are really bulbing leeks) Since I am a seed saver, many other vegetables are grown in a rotation... I never have the same garden twice. But I do grow varieties each year from the categories below: - one adzuki bean - one mung bean - Runner beans: 2 - Limas: 2 - Yardlongs: 3-4 (will include the bush yardlong grown this year) - Cowpeas: 2-3 - one C. maxima squash (buttercup, hubbard, banana, kabocha) - one C. pepo squash (acorn, naked-seeded pumpkin, spaghetti) - one hot pepper for drying - Tomatoes: one banana-type paste, 1-4 red paste types, one non-red paste, one potato-leaf, one non-red slicer - one basil - soybeans: 3-4 additional edamame In addition, there will be many other trials each year for pole beans, soybeans, peas, tomatoes, and peppers....See MoreWhat plants will you not grow again next year?
Comments (14)I'm sort of along the lines of RB. I've been concerned that native plants which live in flood hummocks etc. will have terrible troubles if this drought continues into spring. So many of these rare plants are indigenous only to Georgia. I have thought about re-doing much of what I did last spring. The garden needs to be wider in many areas, and then I want more privacy evergreens focusing on native plants. Perhaps native holly. Drought AND flood resistance is on my mind, as is privacy screening, and safety screening (thorns!) - plus the ability of a plant to take part-sun to full sun because my neighbor and I need to continue trimming overstory trees for health and for safety. I am planning on planting many more edible plants, natives and trees/shrubs for fall color. Plants like blueberries and sumacs (which I don't know much about Southeastern Sumac), serviceberry etc. I want persimmon and pomegranite, maybe wolfberry as well. Probably another fig or two (different types). I have 6 rain barrels, and will get a 7th shortly. Hopefully I can then get a friend to help me build a raised platform to put 6-10 more along the side of the house and install a pump system for them (both for rainwater and also for air conditioning condensation). What I won't plant are the elephant ears under my awning. We LOVE them all summer, but this year they did horribly (no water) and I need some short, interesting evergreen plants that take low water and no tap root (not easy to find in a low water plant). Like RB, I haven't done too much this year. Hopefully we'll have loads of nice GENTLE rains (I shudder to think of what torrential rains would do to trees in the spring) in the new year and be off to a good start. I'd like it to start now, but it seems the rains have been pushed off another few days.. GGG...See MoreIf you could do it again...what WOULDN'T you do
Comments (35)I would not get a French window ever again (I think that's what it's called)---it's a casement window with 2 separate crank out windows with no divider between the 2 windows when they're open. The window was expensive and we've had a lot of problems with it (it has different working parts than a typical casement since there is no center for the windows to close against.) I rarely fully open both sides at once so it usually looks like 2 regular casements. The screen has to span the entire opening and is huge. I know people generally try to stay away from double hung windows in a kitchen since they are awkard to open while leaning over a counter but I'm really happy with ours since the screen is on the outside and is less noticeable to me than an inside screen. And I feel the same about undercabinet lighting as honeyb2. I rarely use it and it seems like wasted money that could have been used elsewhere. We have our mw on the bottom shelf of an open upper cabinet. We did think to put an electic outlet there but I wish I had thought to put the outlet above the mw instead of behind it. I think rhome410 mentioned doing this and it makes so much sense because it allows the mw to be pushed back closer to the wall. We had to change out the standard plug on our mw for a flat, wall hugging plug (I think it cost $40 for the part) so that our mw wouldn't stick out too much. We'll have to do this with all our mw's from here on where a higher plug would have solved the problem....See MoreStreisand Fan
6 years agoBenT (NorCal 9B Sunset 14)
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6 years agoMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA
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