Same issue here... new KitchenAid dishwasher. I had the same 'locked' indicator no matter which button I tried. It flashed 3 times, and nothing... I called the 800 number and they suggested I flip the circuit breaker... wait a few minutes, and try again... Still same error. They were going to send service in about 1 week. I read this blog, and noticed others pushing and holding down each of the buttons. I did that... the first two just caused it to blink 3 times again... I tried the "Top Rack" button (holding down about 3-5 seconds), and the locked indicator went away. Tried to start the dishwasher, and it STARTED!! Thanks for putting this blog out there. Cancelling service as I'm typing this.

What is the computer model number? Consider seriously before taking it to a repair shop because today you'll likely buy a new computer for close to what you might well pay in repair charges. With the recovery CDs you can do this yourself. It is a simple task requiring very little user input other than agreeing to allow it to wipe the drive so you lose all your data - which the repair guy will do anyway so you may as well curse at yourself as curse at him/her. In fact it might just be a good idea to insert disk 1 of the Recovery set just to see if there is more action than you have now. You can always click Cancel or hit the power button to end the processs. Gene's idea of using a second monitor is great, that will eliminate one thing from the equation. With no beep it does sound as though the motherboard has quit. They made some eMachines a few years ago with defective power supplies which quit without warning. In many cases the power supply also took out the motherboard and replacements were not available. Those computer were instant garbage but I thought that was fixed before your machine was made. Take the left side off your computer and read odd the make and wattage of your power supply

When this problem surfaces on a new installation, it is possible (albeit unlikely) that one of the sashes was manufactured slightly too tall. In a situation where there are existing windows that have been installed for awhile, the problem typically arises from a poor quality window that bows, or a poor installation that worsened the condition over time. Modern vinyl windows have fully welded sash stiles and rails, so it is not possible to disassemble. They have snap-in glazing beads that pop in and out for glass replacement. Even the older mechanically fastened units use that same method, and it would be very tedious and not at all advisable to try and cut down the height of a sash. Generally speaking if you are seeing a situation similar to the OP in your inspections with a 15 yr old home/window, it has just about reached its life expectancy. A high quality product regardless of material can/should last far longer, however it is VERY rare to find anything better than "builder-grade" quality windows in a situation such as that. That would be my reinforcement to the OP in this post as well: if it is not something as simple as the upper sash having drifted down (assuming of course that they are double, not single hung), you are getting to the point where you should start planning for replacement with a quality product. I don't want to sound like a sleazy window salesman in saying that, but unfortunately that is likely the case if you want to see any level of improved performance from your windows.

Follow up (I'm OP): GC contacted the lead guy (owner?) of glass co., and within days they were at my house to discuss. They said the door's vertical sweep (which closes to the fixed glass 1/2 panel - see pic) could be replaced with a thinner one. And some glass cos. don't even put a sweep there. They said to totally disregard everything the receptionist said - she had no business diagnosing the problem. The thinner sweep would only be the top half of the door. But we're thinking your eye won't notice that the bottom half has a thicker sweep because there's a 1/2 wall, tiled, there. Get this: The day they showed up the door worked again (pivoted both in and out of the shower)! It was colder - wildly guessing the walls are expanding in heat, or maybe its just a stiff sweep problem (they didn't opine as to cause). Glass co. owner gave me his text and direct dial/vm, and said he'll install a thinner sweep whenever - i.e., if I want, I can wait until its hot again. The only thing I find annoying is that, well, I paid about $3,900 with tax for the glass (HCOL area), and seems I should have a door that fits with the usual sweep. And I'm concerned that if we go with the thinner sweep, maybe the walls will contract when it cold again. But I guess I would rather be done with this and, if it does leak in the winter, deal with that problem then. My 1 year warranty is up Dec. 2017.