Tap water or filtered water?
5 years ago
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Whirlpool Central Water Filtration System--Good? Bad?
Comments (17)Andy, Send you water to be tested by a lab. You can do a search on the web for certified water testing labs. Based on the lab report, you can make a determination on what needs to be filtered out of your current water. Since you are on City Water, you can compare the results with the Water report issued by you local water department (this report should be on their website). On the plumbing forum, post a question once you have the lab results and someone will provide some guidance. You need to build a system that fit you needs. The systems are easy to put together and replacing the filters are inexpensive for most common contaminants. Culligan and Rain soft only sell products and have a vested interest in only selling you products they make rather than what works for you. For instance, you can purchase a whole house water filtration system for chlorine and sediment for under $400 in materials depending on the flow rate that you want. Good luck!...See MoreFiltered water from pot filler?
Comments (9)Data on this device may be found on-line, including at the Home Depot web site that I just quickly checked. Better data may be available somewhere else. The thing to understand about RO membranes is that you can get high-ish flow at zero pressure on the output side, or high pressure at zero flow. In this case, at zero pressure you can get 0.34 claimed gal/min (about 20 gal/hr). That might be a tad slow for some people filling pots or watering cans, but fine for a glass of water. (For comparison, my RO system produces about 6 gal/hr into a pump using two membranes, but they are not this new side-flow type.) A way to have one's cake and eat it too is to have a booster pump on the RO output side to keep the pressure at the membrane low and the pressure into a tank high. The tank pressure and subsequent plumbing then determine the flow rate up to when the tank is depleted. The assertion is made in the data that it can fill a 20 gal tank in an hour, but it is unclear if this is a pressurized tank and what pressure the tank is at when empty or when the RO system shuts off. Given their spec, the pressure would seem to have to be zero, with faucet pressure established by some post tank pump. (Atmospheric pressure storage tanks have the advantage of not having to be strong, like a well tank does, but on the other hand do breath from the atmosphere and the air inlet should be well filtered against dust, bacteria, and any chemical odors.) In principle for quasi passive systems with a 60 psi water source and a pressure tank filled to 30 psi when empty, the tank will fill to 3/4 full at 60 psi and the RO will not be able to fill it further. In reality, the RO efficiency will drop quickly when the pressure across the RO filter gets low and 60 psi in the tank is unlikely to be reached. This is why some type of membrane output side pump is needed. Spectrapure, for example, has one driven by the waste water (brine). This pump works in concert with a control system that controls water flow to the RO filters. It is a bit "thumpy" though as it runs, so an electric pump may be better depending on location in the house. kas...See MoreFridge Water Dispenser AND a Filtered Water tap??
Comments (6)it makes sense to think about this now and not later. it makes sense to protect your coffee machine. Your filtered water can feed a supply that then itself branches to the fridge AND to the bar tap / coffee tap. Where the water supply branches to go to the fridge is where you can put a filter behind the scenes, or anywhere else near the fridge, near the sink, or in an unused space around there, even on the far side of the fridge. The additional elbows do not reduce flow by anything significant. It's the filter that will reduce the flow, but this is not a concern for the two lines you are discussing. some people have a filter on all the cold tap in all the faucets, including those faucets that mix with hot water. In that case, they want a higher flow (not a reduced flow) so it's either a cheap filter that doesn't remove much, or it's a 2-tank system. That is what i have seen or heard. anything i write out is given as background information, not a recommendation to take any action. You could have two filters in line: one cheap, one expensive. The cheap one intercepts the bulk stuff; the expensive one does the higher quality job it is supposed to. Cheap might mean a GE bought at HD for 2 or 3 of your cute $20 bills. Expensive might mean the kind of filter that costs many times more than that, and which you can only get from a high end kitchen showroom, and only if you ask. You could put an RO rnear the bar / coffee spot, instead of running RO water through supply lines. (less chance of leaching minerals out of the pipes on the way to the spout). If anyone local tells you that RO is not needed with your water, they may have a very strong point. RO may be overkill, but a high end filter may be good. This is another subject. I don't know what Toronto water is like, speaking minerally; I have heard that it's taken from somewhere deep in Lake Ontario and therefore always really cold even in summer. I suppose that Some of the people who work in high end coffee machine sales or kitchen fixture sales will be able to guide you about minerals....See MoreEC, PPM, pH meters
Comments (0)EC, PPM, pH meters Posted topics included in this FAQ are: Basics of EC PPM testing--is it necessary? Looking for a nutrient meter Basics of EC Posted by thedude27 (My Page) on Thu, Jan 12, 06 at 16:46 Hello, I'm new to hydroponics growing and have a basic question about mixing the nutrient solution. Currently I'm growing some sage in a homemade DWC system and was wondering if I'm mixing the nutrient solution correctly. When you are mixing to obtain say 1500ppm nutrient solution do you add the 1500ppm on top of the reading of your water without solution? So if I had water that was reading say 500ppm before adding anything would I then add solution to bring the reading to 2000ppm? Or could that provide your plant too much of a certain nutrient (obviously something is in there raising the count). Also at what point (well water) hardness would you consider using distilled/spring water? For me its not such a big deal since my grow (crop) is small for now, but it would be easier to just use tap water (or filtered tap water). Response: Posted by: hank_mili Z11 (My Page) on Fri, Jan 13, 06 at 17:40 The PPM in your tap water is the same whether you have a tablespoon or a gallon. The PPM of the solution from the nutrient concentrate will depend on the volume of water you mix with it. Need to keep in mind that PPM is always a calculated value not like EC (electrical conductivity) which is directly measured. This is why many prefer using an EC meter for measuring nutrient concentration versus a TDS (total dissolved solids) meter, which is an EC meter with a calculation algorithm built in. Unless otherwise stated on the label, the calculated PPM of the solution will assume mixing pure water with the concentrate. But to answer your question the final PPM will be additive and 2000 PPM would be correct. Posted by: thedude27 (My Page) on Sat, Jan 14, 06 at 23:29 Thanks a bunch Hank, that helped a lot :) I guess I should have gotten the EC meter instead of the PPM but I got a really good deal on a Newport DSPH-3 (dissolved solids/PH) that I couldn't pass up. Although I'd imagine I could just get the conversion formula from the company and reverse the calculation (although I suppose I'd need accurate temperature readings too). Thanks again PPM testing--is it necessary? Posted by Luckyleaf 7 TN (My Page) on Sun, Oct 10, 04 at 23:22 Is it necessary to use PPM testing if I will be growing some tomatoes in a bubbler? Also, if you say it is, what should the ranges be for the nutes in the veg stage and the fruit stage? Thanks! Response: Posted by: AdrianaG AL z7 (My Page) on Thu, Oct 14, 04 at 19:09 Only if you want healthy plants...and the meter you want is an EC meter, not a ppm meter. Posted by: hank_mili Z11 (My Page) on Sat, Oct 16, 04 at 2:53 Checking your pH and salts concentration of your nutrients is analogous to checking the fluids in your car. You can get away with not doing it but it is not recommended. It's extra work and expense but gives you important information on the condition of your nutrients. Product.....pH..............cF...........ppm Tomato....6.0 - 6.5...20 - 50......1400 - 3500 Posted by: Luckyleaf 7 TN (My Page) on Sat, Oct 16, 04 at 11:17 How do I get the PPM up to 1400-3500? Just add 2x the recommended dose of the nutes for the plants? The PPM of my water is ~50, so thats a far way to go Posted by: willard3 (My Page) on Sun, Oct 17, 04 at 9:58 It will make a difference how large your reservoir is to get nutrients up to correct ppm. Start keeping a log and how much and when to add and change nutrients will become much clearer to you. PPM and Ph are closely related so you should test and record Ph as well. Posted by: Luckyleaf 7 TN (My Page) on Sun, Oct 17, 04 at 15:49 Well I'm doing 5 gal bubblers, and I wont have a reservoir. It is usually like a tsp or something per gallon for each nute, but since tomatoes have different needs I would have to do something like a tbsp per gal? ...in general I would have to use more than the recommended dose Posted by: willard3 (My Page) on Mon, Oct 18, 04 at 8:49 All nutrients are different; all nutrients have different mineral concentrations. 1. Go buy an EC meter 2. add nutrients 3. Measure nutrient concentration Posted by: Hydro4me z5 IN (My Page) on Tue, Oct 19, 04 at 11:37 Hey there Adriana, I have the (brand name) Nutrient Meter, but it reads, "442", "KCL", and "uS" (which I believe is micro siemens). I have heard that the 442 is good for testing pond water with fish and plants, and KCL is potassium chloride. I have no clue which one to use for testing my Millennium nutrients. I try to keep the blinking LED's in the middle, but peppers or tomatoes require higher levels. Any advice from other hydro gardeners? Thanks, Jason Posted by: willard3 (My Page) on Wed, Oct 20, 04 at 21:25 Most published stuff on hydro is given in ppm. I have on that has been working fine for 5 yrs. RE: meters ppm (ec) and ph Posted by: NLG1 7b-8a (My Page) on Wed, Apr 27, 05 at 18:11 You can find meters for around $30.00. They work, but for how long is the real question. What you want out of a meter. 1: waterproof 2: warranty 3: replaceable probe 4: pH range 1-14 +/- .1 5: ppm range 1-1999 Posted by: willard3 (My Page) on Thu, Apr 28, 05 at 9:20 A good cheap meter is an oxymoron. You should get a good meter, no matter what it costs. Hydro goes sooooo much better if you know accurately and repeatable the Ph and EC of nutrient solution. $50/meter is what I paid and it's worth every penny. Posted by: HydroBotany Indoors (My Page) on Fri, Oct 28, 05 at 18:40 (HydroBotany suggests a double junction (DJ) product). That is the most important thing with hydroponics. A DJ meter handles the environment the best and last the longest. artisan also has a good meter and it can be used continuously if you want it to RE: meters ppm(ec) and ph Posted by: hank_mili Z11 (My Page) on Fri, Oct 28, 05 at 21:49 I tend to be biased toward (another product). Very reliable. No problems so far. RE: Looking for a nutrient meter Posted by marshallwilson z4 CO (My Page) on Sun, Sep 25, 05 at 9:27 New to hydroponics. Basic ebb and flow system. Using 2 part dry nutrients (from CK). Currently outside, will be moving inside under lights soon. I'm looking for an inexpensive way to monitor my nutrient level. Hoping for suggestions on meters. As an alternative; can I just change out the entire solution every 2 weeks (suggestion from the local hydro shop)? I do get a fair amount of evaporation during the 2 week cycle. Should I just top off the nut solution with plain water? Thanks Marshall Response: Posted by: propman Z10 CA (My Page) on Sun, Sep 25, 05 at 11:47 I just got a ppm meter for about $35. Before that I just used the recommended dose on the bottle per gallon of water. What I found when I tested the water was way too stong because my water has 150 ppm before I added nutrients. The meter is a good idea. Here is a link that might be useful: pictures of my lettuce Posted by: hank_mili Z11 (My Page) on Sat, Oct 22, 05 at 1:03 Hope you have a pH meter or strips. One can calculate ppm but you can only measure pH. RE: Looking for a nutrient meter Posted by: HydroBotany Indoors (My Page) on Fri, Oct 28, 05 at 18:03 Just top it off with plain water....See More
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