New engineered wood floors look dirty with glue? stains
3 years ago
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- 3 years ago
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Float or glue engineered wood floor?
Comments (12)I bought nearly 2000sf of floating click-n-lock floor. It came in 3 sizes, 4ft, ~3ft, 18" and 1ft lengths. We purchased very good underlayment at $38 per 100 sf. After the first 1000sf I stopped installing and called the manufacturer. Every step squeaked. I could even hear my 15lb shiz-tzu squeak the floor. Previously I had Kahrs floating floor and it did not squeak; but it was installed in 2001 with 8" wide 8 foot length pieces that were glued together(not to the concrete slab). I liked it but a broken fridge line ruined it so we had to replace the floor. Since it didn't squeak I didn't expect this new floor to. The manufacturer said it was defective wood, refunded me all the money for the wood, took back the unopened boxes and told me to throw out the 1000ft I had laid. I don't believe it is defective. I think this is what you get with this stuff. So after consultation, we decided to glue our floor down. We pulled up the floated floor, bought some more wood and had a professional re-install(with very good adhesive/glue). It doesn't squeak but we don't have that soft feel of floating floor that I liked. Also, I believe they used a urethane adhesive and it did not smell at all. Absolutely no glue smell. If you don't like the creaking, be careful with floating floor....See Moreengineered glue down wood floor not sticking
Comments (10)Update: I attempted to email the inspector with my questions and such but he did not respond. The builder had told me if I had questions, to ask the inspector, but upon calling an inspector myself to ask about fees and doing an inspection for me, he indicated that they are not supposed to talk to anyone about the issue that did not actually hire them. Since the builder hired them and I did not, then the inspector could only talk to the builder. Once I understood that, I got back with the builder to see where we would go with this issue. Thats when I found out that they had noticed another failure just like mine in a spec house that they did. Same sub did the work. They went in and discovered that the wood floor came back up easy so the planks could be reused, so they redid it using different glue. So now they are doing mine. As I suspected, all of the wood planks have come up very easy with no breakage. There are some spots where the dri tak had held that caused breakage of the planks, but lucky most all were in one confined area since I had previously told them to stop using the dri tak as it was not in my opinion the proper repair. They are using a glue called rocket 7000 i believe. It is a different glue than what he used before. When the planks are pulled up, there is squished glue on the plank and on the concrete, but it is tacky to the touch but does not come off unless you scrape it off, which then it does peel off to some degree. Maybe it is supposed to be that way. Not sure as I have not got into any deep discussion with the builder or the sub about it. I just stay out of their way and am glad they are doing this at no cost to me. Builder and sub have stepped up to the plate to correct this, but it did take some work on my part and some bull headedness on my part. Most of the planks are being reused with some being replaced with new since they can still get them. Any comments or advice?...See MoreGlueing down engineered 7.5" wood flooring...
Comments (5)Thanks for the replies. Update: We had the wrong info from the sales guy at the flooring store. Contractor says the layer of soundproofing he's buying from them CAN be nailed through without affecting the benefits of the layer. So we're now going to nail down, 7.5" 5/8' thick engineered white oak on top of soundproofing layer (see link below, and if anyone's used this please advise if you're happy with it) on top of old plywood. This is a condo built in 1979, overlooking the water in a Northeast climate. Here is a link that might be useful: Sound Solutions acoustic underlayment...See MoreMake new wood floor look old? Wide plank wood floor.
Comments (22)We lived in Florida. Wood moves with the seasons, so glue would not allow the movement. Since we laid the floors ourselves in 1997, am working from memory here. We had plywood subfloor down then stacked the flooring in the air conditioned house for several weeks. We face nailed only. I really wanted an antique look and we used cut nails. All those are hammered in by hand. After all the flooring was installed, I mixed two colors of MinWax stains, Puritan Pine and one other ( memory fails me) in a one gallon paint can (new empty cans are sold by paint stores and Lowe’s) so my color would be consistent. No one else can be in the house for over a week while the staining and oiling are being done. Authentic Pine Floors gave me a formula for the finish I mixed in another unused gallon paint can, but I think I would use straight tung oil now. Tung oil must have five or six applications with sufficient drying time between coats. This cannot be rushed. We used tung oil on the cherry floors we laid two years ago in the kitchen of our current house and love it. Our Florida house had carpet upstairs for noise control, so I estimate we had over 2000 square feet of pine floors. My sister used the same material for her house in the Midwest 16 years ago and the floors are still beautiful. My daughter has about 3000 square feet of the same flooring, finished the same way. We all have dogs and active lives. Some people age their floors by dropping chains onto the surface, spreading sharp gravel on the floor and walking around with work boots to scratch the floors, or you can (with extreme caution) roll burning logs onto the hearth area to put a few scorch marks. Then stain and oil the floors. We did none of that at any of our three houses, preferring to let the floors show our history. All wood moves with humidity. It is not much, though. It certainly is not huge gaps....See More- 3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
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