Glad to find this subject on a forum! I have a slightly different question on the same subject. I grew up using a Rotary edger, so now that I have my own lawn, I thought I might get one again. My lovely bride bought me a single wheeled rotary edger for Christmas, with the proviso that I could opt for the two wheeled variety. (That one costs roughly ten dollars more.) My question is this: Is there an advantage to the two wheeled variety and if so, what is the upside? I don't have a huge lawn/sidewalk area, so a single pass probably would be sufficient. I don't want to start using a single wheel only to find out I should have gone for the double... and now can't return the "used" one. Any advice you can offer?

The bucket of sand with motor oil poured in works well for hand tools that you push in and out of the sand. I only do this for tools that don't have a fine edge (shovels, pitch fork, hammer, etc). Used motor is fine and a good way to recycle. It does a quick decent job of sanding off rust, but not perfect on complex shapes. Make sure you clean the dirt off your tools before doing this to keep the sand/oil mix clean for a longer time. I use rredogg's method for all other tools.

How wide is the crown? If it is not more than 6" wide, a compuond miter saw(just tilt/turn) will be sufficient. I have a DeWalt 12" CMS(Compound Miter Saw) I have used for installing all kinds of trim for several years. If you need a slider, Makita/Bosch make the better ones---and if you get a slider, a 10" model should be enough. Frued makes a Fine Finish blade(80 tooth model) that I use for trim. It is a thinner than normal blade and does have a deflection issue if I cut too fast---but nice and slow allows beautiful cuts. However, I only use the miter saw for outside corner joints---and initial cuts for coping---I cope as many inside joints as possible. I have two cabinetmakers rasps(flat one side and half round on the other with a rasp cut and file cut each) and an old wooden handle coping saw my father had. Reason being that most corners in most houses are not a perfect 45 degree angle. That means to get a decent joint, you need to measure each time you need to make a joint, divide in half, putter around adjusting the CMS table and hope it works. With a little practice, you can cope a joint---and it will be much better looking---faster than you can miter cut one(with all the adjusting/etc.) Plus, a coped joint does not open/close due to seasonal changes nearly as bad as mitered joints. You will see jigs advertised that allow you to cut coped joints with a jigsaw---I have no idea of the accuracy of those. Toe kick vent holes are better cut with a sabre saw(Jigsaw)---you already have that. Nailers---whooBoy! In my experience, the correct size nail for crowm will split shoe molding, so one nailer for all your jobs is not gonna happen. Those Paslodes are nice tools---but expensive and dirty---meaning cleaning is required---ala pistol shooting. So, that means two nailers. About $700-$800+. You can buy a Porter Cable combo---with a 16 guage 2&1/2" nailer(will do crown nicely), an 18 gauge nailer(shoe), a 7/32" stapler(I use one for part of the door casing installation---same size as what is used to install casing on prehund assemblies)----plus a compressor(loud) , hose, fittings, and lube oil bottle. I have and have used all those nailers in commercial use for years---not a problem. For about $250 for the whole shebang. And, with the compressor/nailers, you have the ability to regulate pressure/depth of the nail set. The only drawback---in my experience, is the compressor noise---it is loud, due to the oilless design. I have a slightly larger oil type compressor in my shop that is much quieter, but much less portable. I bought a longer hose and keep the compressor in the next room---cuts way down on the noise. Sounds as if you will do a fine job, you have the right attitude and abilities. Let us know what you bought and how it is going.

Not sure how old your husband is, but the older I get, the more I appreciate my 12v LI cordless drill! I have the Hitachi and I love it. I also have an 18v Bosch that is much heavier, but also makes both my shoulder and elbow problems flare up much quicker. For fast jobs where I'm not holding the drill above my head or at odd angles, the heavier drill is fine. But, I'd much rather reach for my smaller drill. So far, I've completely remodeled my house, built a fence, deck, done drywall- all with my 12v drill. I have 3 batteries and when I'm working one is always ready in the charger. The smaller drill has adjustable settings, so I can put together stuff from IKEA without stripping screws. The 18v has way too much power, and would surely strip those. I also have an electric screwdriver that I could use for simpler things, but prefer the feel of the drill. I think it's a very personal thing, have him try them out buy holding them at the store. And remember, most of the displays don't include the heavy part- the battery- so make sure to take that into consideration. And always buy the best brand you can. The first drill I bought was a Black & Decker, and it has been charged maybe twice in the 6 years I've had it. I prefer quality tools- and that one isn't.