I have wood that is wide planked in the livingroom and then regular width in halls and bedroom. It is original. I think 1/4 of an inch is not going to be that noriceable but if you are worried then deliberately go wider so it looks deliberate. Will the new floor run parallel to the existing hardwood or will the ends meet? If the ends meet then it may be noticeable and in that case I would think about doing a border with the wood and then running the rest inside of it.

Wood vs. Engineered Wood? No contest in this case. If the home was built in 1905, put real hardwood in. This preserves the integrity of the home's building materials. Plus, as you can see from the age of these floors, higher grades (i.e. thicker) hardwood can be sanded several times; you usually don't get even one chance to sand engineered wood. The hardwood layer at the top of this multilayered product is simply too thin. Level Floors and Subfloors There are ways to level a subfloor, ranging from replacing parts of the subfloor with thicker or thinner sheets of plywood (or planks, see below), to pour-on leveling compounds that harden to make the entire floor level. What you use to level uneven areas depends on what the subflooring is. If it is plywood or concrete, the compound works. But more likely with this home, on floors at or above grade, there will be wood planks laid at a diagonal across the floor joists. So in your home, the layers were probably joists first, then subfloor planks of wood, then hardwood with tongue & groove joints. You cannot effectively use a pour-on leveling compound on a plank subfloor, as there are cracks between the planks. However, you can lay a new hardwood floor directly on a wood plank subfloor as long as those planks are sound and relatively level. Replace individual planks that have been damaged by water or insects, are otherwise compromised, or even missing (it happens!), with either new planks of lumber, or with plywood of the same thickness as the planks. Any lumber you install, for either the subfloor or finished flooring, should be brought in to your home several days prior to installation, so the materials acclimatize to your typical interior temperature and humidity. Unlike for ceramic or porcelain tile, the subfloor does not have to be perfectly level. And unlike vinyl sheeting, planks or tiles, the hardwood won't "telegraph" minor differences in height, and minor surface irregularities, so the subfloor doesn't have to be absolutely perfect; it should be sound, strong, uniform and essentially level. Your flooring contractor can give you specifics on what upgrades your subfloor may need once the original hardwood is removed. Joists If the floor is significantly not level in parts, or if certain areas feel spongy when you walk on them, I recommend you have your flooring contractor, a home inspector, or structural engineer inspect the subflooring and especially the floor joists. You don't want to invest in a new floor, only to have it become damaged because some joists weren't attended to. Transitions Transitions (a.k.a. thresholds or molding) between existing rooms and the new floor ought to be made of the same wood and same finish (stain, polyurethane, etc.) as the new flooring you are putting down. As wood ages, the finish becomes darker, so trying to make the transitions match the finishes of existing floors is very difficult and not recommended (what will match those floors right now won't match later after your transitions age up a bit). Eventually, the transitions wouldn't match either the new or the old floors! Transitions come in four types: reducer (when the two floors being joined are of different heights), seam binder (when the floors are the same height, and the boards from each are very close to one another), T-mold (when the two floors are the same height, but there is a crack between the two rooms' flooring) and stair nose or stair edger (when the flooring needs to curve around the front of a stair's "tread"--the flat part of a stair upon which you tread!). The transitions for your particular project can be ordered when you order the hardwood, so make sure to include measurements for those doorways/entrances. The contractor can tell you if he/she anticipates there will be a height difference or gap between the floorings, which would require those particular transitions. Dry Air Concerns Consult a local lumber supplier or flooring contractor familiar with your local climate conditions to discuss finishes or other tips for keeping your wood floors healthy in the dry winters. Sounds wonderful! Have fun!

What's your counter top? As much as I love the look of blue slate up against a wood floor, it would look weird if it is the ONLY punch of blue/gray in the entire kitchen. If in doubt, look to your counter tops to help pick your floor. It is a very simple (yet elegant) form of DIY Design which helps homeowners complete the look without having all the stress of picking 'another colour' for the floors.

In design an upper floor can have it's own colour theme even with wood. The best thing to do is to match the SPECIES and then stain the upper floors a different colour. Traditionally the STAIRS match the 'main' level wood. If you put the new wood on the stairs be prepared for a BIG colour clash. You can run a stair runner but then you need to paint/stain the railings/spindles, etc. It becomes a much bigger job. Your lower level appears to be a maple with an oil based finish (or a gunstock stain). Check to see if the wood is thick enough to get a full sand and refinish (we call that 'refinishing'). The wood needs to be 3mm or THICKER above the 'tongue' to achieve a full sand/refinish. You can check the thickness of the wood by finding a cross section in the floor = vent cover. Simply pop off the vent and look at the cut section of the wood. You measure the ENTIRE thickness of the wood (total thickness) and then you measure the amount of wood above the tongue to find out if you have 3mm or more for a sand/refinish. What is CURRENTLY on the stairs?