SJ McCarthy, our contract is stated we are responsible for the materials and we pay for the labor. Unfortunately we never met nor discuss with the owner but only discussed in details ( in the proposal) with the project manager who is the solely the carpenter.) We just found out there were a lot of the DETAILS from the proposal were not explained (per the PM,but who knows) in detail to the owner or almost like "bait and switch" - for example like item #2- he spent more time because the owner did not get him another helper to help him- I told him this should not be the customer's expenses-Anyway we are willing to pay for it. The owner was offering to renew and establish a new contract from the original contact ( we felt that he cherry picking the items from the proposal, we marked them up then again he decided not to included) for the unfinished works . Once he agreed in our 2nd meeting (another example: he agreed tiling our study room to be included from the original contact in our 1st meeting then when he write the REVISED CONTRACT- he wants to charge us ), but again we are facing the same old stories-he tried to change the wording. We were burned so many times and now we diligently review line by line knowing the owner's personality. He kept saying he lived by the contract-then I told him then he should honor the low estimated to install our engineering hardwood floor including removing the carpet-in the end he says he would honor but he did not including the cost in the new REVISED contract which we add into it - we are so tired with his games. So now we put a contingency - once we agree with the new contract, no more additional expenses from the previous work was done- and we do agree that we need to be notified first and need both signatures for additional expenses from the new contract. and no more point finger of "not included" since we have discussed in detailed and are in the contract. The new addition has a hardwood floor installed - with Dri-core. Once hardwood floor was installed- they are some areas squeak- we were told by PM -put a marked up then he would fasten without explaining to us-these would be additional ridiculous charges (PM told the owner, too-we told PM that they should explain it to us- ) Regarding the installing the engineering hardwood floor is for our existing rooms(concrete slabs that has plywood already)- we are told just to put a vapour barrier. Is it possible to let me know what brands for the glues have to be moisture resistant ($2/sf) or moisture PROOF ($3/sf).? The manufacture instruction suggests to use Franklin Tongue and Groove adhesive (cross linking polyaliphactic emulsion glue) www.titebond.com -any suggestions? This Applachian engineering hardwood floor - FLOATING only needs GLUE between the wood (tongue and groove per the manufacture manual ) then would be FLOAT - this is not to be GLUE DOWN on our concrete floor (could be glue down if necessary but not in our case). Here is the website- on PAGE 9 http://www.appalachianflooring.com/uploads/general/documents/engineered-installation-guide.pdf We trust the PM and we pay for it- we just want to move on and complete the project-It has been almost 10 months. We have to do what we have to do to protect ourselves now- The owner refuses to install our towel bar in our new shower without charging us, and we told him we will take care them by ourselves. I will update this post and hoping for a better solution. Thank you

As Greendesigns points out, laying hardwood over concrete is tricky. A permanent hardwood (glue/nail/staple) on slab is more likely to go wrong than right. To be crystal clear, you can GLUE DOWN hardwood STRAIGHT to the slab. Adding plywood is a step used to NAIL down (or cleat/staple) hardwood into place over slab. You can SKIP this part if you GLUE DOWN the wood. But....and this is a MASSIVE 'but'....the professional must be SUPER EDUCATED as to glue down technique, glues, trowel size, coverage, moisture mitigation, etc, etc, etc! Gluing down hardwood is no different than gluing down plywood. Both are wood. Both require the same adhesives...and both have the same failure rates (ie the 'rotten plywood' comment above). The next issue would be height variation. I would expect a transition. Even a small one. And the reason: the townhouse subfloors were BUILT to accommodate cork glue down tiles (probably 4mm) in the kitchen and then another floor in the living space (???original floor???). And this BUILT IN floor height variation will never go away. Not unless you go back in time and make all of your decisions based on the inclusion of the hardwood running into the kitchen. I personally would find out if the engineered hardwood (with the 4mm wear layer) can be FLOATED - most are allowed to float...but not all so it is best to be super prepared. If it can be, your situation has been solved....remove the old vinyl/cork and FLOAT the new hardwood in the kitchen. A thin sheet of plastic will be laid down over the concrete and the wood will be floated over top. You will have a small transition ANYWAY (floor height variation = transition) so you might as well change the type of install to MATCH your slab = floating hardwood = MOST APPROPRIATE form of wood flooring install over slab. Also be aware that the finish might have a slight colour/gloss variation. Again, that's where a well prepared transition strip/area can be SUPER helpful in hiding these slight variations.

Jan Moyer you are right on the money. Every single manufacturer knows how to build an upholstered piece the right way, it's not a secret and it's not rocket science. However this is a price-driven industry and the consumer demands lower prices, so most these companies respond accordingly. There are only two ways to lower the cost of the build 1) Reduce you labor costs 2) Reduce your material costs. You take it out of the craftsmanship or the materials. A manufacturer will decide what level they want to produce at - and then target the build to that price point. This is very much a time-business as well, so they are always looking for ways to make it faster to save on labor cost to meet target goals. The result is shortcuts and elimination of time-honored techniques and materials. How much can they eliminate in the cost to build is a meeting they have in staff every single week? Dealers demand it because they have the pressure from the retail consumer. However, everything they reduce - takes away from the quality of the build in one form or another. At some point down the line, they're are producing junk that goes to the landfill rather quickly. Companies that are publicly held and traded on the stock market are under enormous pressure to maximize profits for stockholders. Those that are privately held much less so, depending on what the owner wants to do. Best example I know of this is Hancock and Moore, which was started by Jack Glasheen and Jimmy Moore when they were fed up with the cutbacks at Classic Leather in the early 1980's and decided to go out together and build a new company that doesn't take shortcuts. I know both of them quite well personally and they have never wavered in the quest to build the best in the industry and also take care of any issues that may pop up from time to time. They very soon took over from Classic Leather as the # 1 builder in the USA. Jack and Jimmy retired a few years ago and sold the company, but not just to anyone. There were many who wanted to buy it, but they would only sell to someone who has the same beliefs and would continue the legacy of the build. That was Alex Shuford at Century, who runs his companies the same way. That's why H&M is now a part of Rock House Brands, the parent holding company. I don't carry poor or mediocre brands in my store. I know what makes a good piece of furniture in the 34th year of doing this and I build relationships with both my suppliers and customers, not just "make sales". I know that cheap sofas go to the landfill quickly, good ones actually cost less over time as they are serviceable for many years. It's my job to show clients what makes a good piece of furniture and what they are getting for their money so they can make an informed decision. Knowledge is Power. Empower the consumer through education, which is also why I participate in forums like this and run one myself. How strongly do I believe in that? I even have a cut-away of a Hancock and Moore chair in my store that I had custom made to show those interested how its made. Once you know the right way to do it, it's easy to spot the poorly made stuff. For the most part "you get what you pay for" in this industry. - Duane Collie

We have red oak floors covered with carpet in our living room in our 50 year old ranch. That room opens up to our dining/kitchen area which is sheet vinyl on a subfloor (placed over old vinyl.) We were wanting to do glued down engineered hardwood over the entire area and the hallway. The guy who measured said we could put a subfloor over the hardwood to bring it up to the level of the vinyl. Sounded easy. Now the installer says we need to remove all the old hardwood and vinyl and do new subfloor over all of it. Who is right? Is a floating installation an easier/better option?