Susan's schedule is probably best for you. Leave them in the shade for about nine days (but at least a week) if the weather is predicted to be mild and not windy. (I tend to err on the side of caution for hardening plants off.) Diffused natural light without a filter has a great many more lumens than any light we give them inside. That shade may seem tame to you, but to seedlings, it's heady stuff that won't burn them! Then on the weekend when you're home, move them into the early morning and late afternoon sunlight. Finally, expose them to full sunlight all day until you can transplant them. Then you should be able to plant them out without fear of their sun-scalding. And there's another way. Trudi of Winter-Sowing reputation recommends setting the seedlings outside all day under a laundry basket that has holes in the sides large enough to allow diffused light to come through as well as air circulation. You could also use one of those to shade your seedlings if you don't have a shady spot. You could leave them all there for a week to nine days, and then remove the basket and let them toast in the sun. Either way, just make sure you keep them watered and bring them inside if it's going to be windy or too cold for them.

Kentstar, you are being wayyyy too hard on yourself... There are so many individual approaches to how to transition/plant your young own root roses and it all depends on the condition of your own root when you receive it... Not all own roots are created equal and to be so hard on yourself is not fair to yourself... Karl's way is always ideal (100% fail-proof) esp. if it's a baby band (there's no way a baby band can survive zone 5 and colder on its first year)... For young root roses, if! they have matured enough and have reached a certain size, at least 1'6" for example, they can survive being planted straight in the soil... Tomorrow, I'll try to take a photo of my own young root rose as a comparison... My young root rose started healthy and at the appropriate size unlike my very sick baby band. It is now twice the size that it was 2 weeks when I received it with absolutely no sign of transplant shock... Now if you compare it with yours, what is happening is that you are almost 2 weeks behind with the transplant shock... About the Sea Tea, what will happen is that it will nourish and start feeding the root system... Once that root system is fed and absorbed, it will supply lots of nutrition to the plant itself... Even though the dying leaves will continue to die, the stored nutrients will push up new growth into the stems... I also believe that some of the softer, semi-wilted leaves will also begin to straighten up. It just takes the sea tea maybe 2-3 days for this to occur if any of the former leaves are still viable. Again, this is all catchup time for the sea tea. My dying baby band started out being 3-1/2" tall with a horrible yellow-green color to its stems and leaves. I left the dying leaves until I could lightly stroke the leaves and they'd fall off/crumble away. Otherwise I left everything else intact. Then new pineapple baby stems started appearing everywhere, and now beautiful glossy leaves... That dying baby band is no longer dying, but thriving... so it goes to show that I would not! be doing any sort of pruning at all! just prop up the bent stems with one of those thin vinyl wire supports with a velcro tie... This allows the baby stem to breathe and circulate its nutrients easier through the entire length of the stem. Think of it this way, if you bent your chin all the way down to your neck, breathing is much more shallow as opposed to a straight neck, head-up position. Young roses benefit from the extra support until they stabilize... The benefit of Karl's pot method for me would be that it holds in the sea tea so that the tea is preserved in the pot... Since you have ground soil instead of contained soil, if you've been washed out by heavy rain, once your ground soil has dried out to a light loose semi-dry texture, you can reapply the dilute sea tea sooner than the normal 7 days...day 5. However, if it's just light rain, 7 days' interim is ideal... But again, be very! careful not to get soggy soil! Soggy soil can cause root rot...and that! would be horrible... imo do not water too deeply for young root roses... they won't absorb as much moisture as a bare root or grafted nursery rose... (their anchor roots are too immature and underdeveloped). In other words, be sure to feed any excess to other plants. The soil should always be spongy soft not sopping wet. (if you tap the soil it should have a little bounce to it with just a very slight dampness to it). Also, watch the weather channel to plan ahead on how much water your young rose plant will need. Hope these descriptors are of help instead of confusing...

As a general rule, citrus are *not* pruned like other fruit trees are. They need to have enough nodes to bloom/fruit and if pruned too much it really reduces the crop or you get none. Most pruning of citrus is just to remove dead branches. If you want to shape it a bit, then just take off enough to make it pleasing to your eyes. I think you are describing "water sprouts" which are very fast growing, vertical branches. I leave them on trees that need to fill in, such as my trees that lost their tops from hurricanes. eventually the wild new growth will become more normal looking (will have brown bark)and will fruit. If you trim the interior, you may get sun damaged fruit. The leaves give the fruit a little shade. I don't trim my citrus unless I have to. I like the natural weeping look. My Meyer had a very wild looking, upright branch last year, I left it alone, now it has balanced itself out quite nicely. Bottom line is, trim it if you want to, but it is fine to not trim, or just minimally trim citrus. Lisa

No, cutting a clematis back will never hurt it regardless of the type. It may delay flowering for a season depending on your growing zone and the pruning class, but it will also stimulate more lush and exuberant growth in the spring. You can often tell what pruning class a clematis belongs to by when it blooms. If it tends to bloom early on in the season on older wood, it will most likely be a type II or type I. If it blooms on new growth later in the season, then it more than likely will be a type III. The one caveat to all this is determining what is early or late in your zone. The further south you go, the earlier all types of clematis will bloom compared to those further north.