My Mom's is more transitional than traditional so we are trying to layer textures and pattern and add some drama with colour. Kitchen is a featurless interior room in an 80's build high rise condo. It has no window so shooting it can be tricky, my Mom sent me these today to show me the new central light installed: Just daylight (it was overcast and snowy today) and the flash with 3 different light sources (flash, the light and daylight), yikes too man light sources!: I find the whites are more accurate in the first shot while the colour of the walls is more like in the second one. It is BM "Rusty Nail in a flat Aura paint while the ceiling is BM "Cloud White" in the same finish and paint. This is in daylight with a flash but no overhead light: This is last night with the overhead and under cabinet lights on and the flash: It's a strong colour that sort of frames the cabinetry but there isn't a whole lot of it. Backsplash (inset backsplash in both sides of the "L" only no side splash) will be a 1x1 mosaic in off whites and soft beiges. My Mom didn't have a huge budget so she wanted to go a bit bolder and take advantage of some of the fun patterns and textures available in man made materials like laminate and sheet flooring. It isn't a space that lends itself to a cottagey white kitchen, old world elegance or sleek and modern so this was ideal and suits my Mom perfectly.

Hi Laurie! Your userid always makes me smile because one of my all-time favorite teachers was Ms. Rose -- she was my English teacher in hs and I just loved her. I read "Jane Eyre" with her and that's where I learned of the name St. John; Ms. Rose explained that it's pronounced "sinjin." That's my eldest son's name! Okay, so back to white / cream: the Calming Cream definitely has more yellow in it than Mayonnaise. I'm staring at it right now and I don't think it's darker and it really does not look yellow, but it's also not a bright white (which isn't me). It doesn't read exactly the same as the Mayo did in our previous house -- it's warmer, but then the lighting conditions are so different here. Oh, you know those gorgeous moldings in old British houses which have been there forever and the white is pretty mellow from time and that it's an oil-based paint (which also yellows over time)? That's what it reminds me of. That is a horribly constructed sentence but hopefully you know what I mean. I think Benjamin Moore got the name right with Calming Cream because it is a calm color and it does look like the most luscious pool of rich, fatty cream. (my favorite kind!)

Here is our instructions for paint interior doors as well to help you out, good luck, and seriously get a new contractor ;) Interior Door Care & Finishing Proper care and finishing is very important to gain the maximum benefits from your interior doors. When finished properly your new doors should exceed your aesthetic and operational expectations. Below are a few key points everyone should know when it comes to the care and finishing of interior doors. Initial Care Interior Doors need to be acclimated to the environment where they will be installed. This process normally takes two days. Doors stored for more than a few days should have the top and bottom rails sealed with a prestain wood conditioner. Single (not pre-hung doors) should be laid flat on a dry, clean surface. Do not subject them to extreme or rapid changes in humidity or heat. Avoid finishing in hight humidty conditions. Finishing No finishing process exists today that totally eliminates the transmission of water vapor or moisture into and out of wood doors. The key to proper finishing is to slow down the transmission process so the door performs within tolerances. All doors have six sides--not two, not four, but six--front, back, two edges, plus the most ignored and most vulnerable, the top and bottom. Failure to finish all six surfaces uniformly is the number one cause of door failures. Sanding is critical--the first rule to remember is the importance of field sanding all wood door products. Every wood door, regardless of manufacturer or style, requires some surface preparation before finishing. The key component of this surface preparation is thorough sanding to remove naturally occurring surface blemishes, handling marks, dirt, etc. Each basic type of wood door requires a slightly different procedure. The following are sanding instructions from our key suppliers: Molded Doors Before finishing, lightly sand a primed molded door with 220-grit sandpaper. Blow off all dust, sand lightly between finish coats with 320-grit sandpaper. Remove sanding dust with tack cloth before applying your finish. Wood Flush Doors Lightly sand the face of the door just enough to remove handling marks using 100-grit sandpaper. Avoid spot sanding and using too fine of sandpaper. This can close the grain and cause staining problems such as light spots. Note the veneer is approximately 1/100 of an inch thick on a 4-ply skin. DO NOT OVER SAND. Remove sanding dust with tack cloth before applying your finish. Wood Panel Doors Before finishing, sand the entire door thoroughly with 150 or 180-grit sandpaper. This will remove handling marks, surface blemishes, cross grain scratches, drag marks, surface oil and dirt, thus allowing a more consistent finish. When sanding, always follow the direction of the grain to avoid cross-grain scratches. Remove sanding dust with tack cloth before applying your finish. How to Paint an Interior Door Supplies Required: High Quality Primer - Approx. 1 Quart (For wood doors - oil based primer only, for molded and MDF doors - latex primer is OK.) High Quality Paint - Approx. 1 Quart (For wood doors - oil based paint only, for molded and MDF doors - latex paint is OK.) High Quality, Synthetic Bristle Paint Brush Painter's Tape Sandpaper (Molded Doors 220 & 320 Grit, Wood Flush Doors 100 Grit, Wood Panel Doors 150 or 180 Grit) Cotton Cloth Elastomeric or Polyurethane Caulk (To ensure that the door unit is properly caulked and all fastener holes are filled.) Step #1 Ensure the door unit is properly caulked per installation instructions. If necessary, set and fill all fastener holes. Ensure all caulking is fully cured before proceeding to the next step. Step #2 Remove or mask off all hardware prior to painting. Step #3 Lightly scuff sand the door and jamb per above sanding instructions. Step #4 Wipe the door with a clean cotton cloth. Step #5 Apply a quality primer according to manufacture's instructions. Note: Make sure all six sides - front, back, edges, top and bottom - receive the same uniform coverage. Step #6 Apply 2 coats of a quality paint according to manufacture's instructions. For wood and molded panel doors, always follow the grain of the door. Paint the panels first then the stiles and rails. Allow the door to dry completely between coats Note: Make sure all six sides - front, back, edges, top and bottom - receive the same uniform coverage. Step #7 Allow the paint to dry completely before unmasking and installing hardware. How to Stain Our Interior Door Supplies Required: High Quality Oil Based Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner High Quality Oil Based Stain* - Approx. 1 Quart High Quality Oil Based Polyurethane* - Approx. 1 Quart (Oil based products are recommended for interior wood veneered doors. Water based products can raise the grain and cause multiple moisture related problems.) White China Bristle Paint Brush Painter's Tape Sandpaper (Molded Doors 220 & 320 Grit, Wood Flush Doors 100 Grit, Wood Panel Doors 150 or 180 Grit) Cotton Cloth Tack Cloth Elastomeric or Polyurethane Caulk (To ensure that the door unit is properly caulked and all fastener holes are filled.) *You may substitute an Oil Based Stain/Clear Top Coat 1 Step Product for the Stain and Polyurethane. Step #1 Ensure the door unit is properly caulked per installation instructions. If necessary, set and fill all fastener holes. Ensure all caulking is fully cured before proceeding to the next step. Step #2 Remove or mask off all hardware prior to staining. Step #3 Lightly scuff sand (220 Grit Sandpaper) the door and jamb per above sanding instructions. Step #4 Wipe the door with a clean cotton cloth. Step #5 Apply an oil based pre-stain wood conditioner to promote uniform stain coverage and minimize sharp color contrasts that can occur in wood veneer doors. Allow to dry per manufacture's instructions. Note: Make sure all six sides - front, back, edges, top and bottom - receive the same uniform coverage. Step #6 Apply oil based stain and allow to dry per manufacture's instructions. Note: Make sure all six sides - front, back, edges, top and bottom - receive the same uniform coverage. Step #7 Apply polyurethane top coat and allow to dry per manufacture's instructions. Note: Make sure all six sides - front, back, edges, top and bottom - receive the same uniform coverage. Step #8 Lightly sand (320 Grit Sandpaper) and wipe clean with tack cloth per manufacture's instructions before applying second coat. Step #9 Apply second coat of polyurethane and allow to dry per manufacture's instructions. Note: Make sure all six sides - front, back, edges, top and bottom - receive the same uniform coverage. Step #10 Allow the polyurethane to dry completely before unmasking and installing hardware.

what kind of bulbs do you have in there? they look on the lower temperature or 'yellow' end. You may want to replace the lighting, or at least the bulbs to something in a 4000K temp. what color is currently there? it already looks like an off-white. I like using the white straight out of the can with no tint added. it's the perfect white. You could always try that in your closet. with your lighting, it will take on a warmer hue anyway. And, if you don't like it, take it back and have your tint added to it for another color. free. I've never heard of Simply White having a green cast. it's one of the most neutrals whites. Chantilly has a blue/green cast. does it have to be white? why not a color? I'd also paint the wood trim in there a glossy white. it will help w/the freshen-up. Alabaster is a warmer white. pale oak is the perfect neutral and works with everything. (you could do that for the wall and the Alabaster for that wood trim)