I would certainly insist on replacing the drywall and insulation that got wet. But before that's replaced, be sure to see how your windows were installed. You might consider contacting your window manufacturer to see if they have a rep in your area who can check them out. My concern isn't so much for the windows but for the installation job. We went through >6 mos. of major inconvenience and expense all because the builder of our spec house thought he knew better than the window makers and didn't bother installing sill pans or correctly flashing the windows. Even after the builder paid to remove/replace brick, re-caulk (multiple times), etc., he whined about the window manufacturers insisting on needless (in his opinion) and costly installation procedures. Sadly, we know that the way this house was built is no different than most other houses in our area, whether they sell for $300K or $3MM. I went up against two other builders who insisted they'd "always" built houses using shockingly slipshod methods and thought that I was just difficult and picky for wanting to conform to building code (inspections are a joke here, so there's no comfort to be gained from a house passing inspection.) It's easier and cheaper to correct the problem now than after you're living in the house. Good luck!

You could also have a problem with your brick fascia - it might not be shedding water properly. This would be worth checking into. If it is real brick, the bottom row or two should contain bricks that shed water that gets behind the brick - these could have been blocked off in the patio job, in which case that water would go straight into your basement. This happened to me once when I had new hottop put on and they brought right up to the house, blocking the drainage (who knew brick wasn't waterproof but it isn't). Or, if it is fascia, there might be a flashing detail that was inadvertently overlooked and is letting water into the basement or possibly causing the gap you mention. In any case, don't overlook the surprisingly large amount of water that is running down your walls in a heavy rainstorm as the possible culprit.

My goodness, that is pretty. Did you get a picture of the basin before plaster? That drain concern is significant. I find it hard to believe that the plaster team plastered over it. These guys are pretty skilled at doing this. I suspect something else may have happened. What size pump is driving the weir? That is a fairly substantial length. Are you looking for a sheer effect into the basin or expecting the water to run down the wall and into the basin? The edge needs to be withing a 32nd of an inch of level for a minimal amount of water to be needed. That looks like it's only within a 1/4" at best and possibly under powered. If the drain issue is real, that may also have an effect as the drains may be partially blocked and an insufficient flow may not be possible until the issue is corrected. It may also present an unsafe submerged suction situation. What did you use to plaster? Different finishes have different start up procedures. Getting your own proper test kit is something I encourage all my customers to do. I have found pool store tests to be less than accurate on many occasion. Hand held electronic testers really don't cut it for homeowners. Adding di-chlor and stabilizer is a great way to overshoot desired stabilizer levels in a pool. I personally prefer to use unscented bleach such as Clorox or other brand that is labeled 5 or 6% for elevating the FC level after the 1st few days and for the next couple weeks during a new plaster start up. If you have an erosion feeder, then tabs are appropriate. The use of added stabilizer is discouraged in this situation as tabs add this as they erode. The type of plaster finish is important here though. While builders can build some beautiful pools, that doesn't mean they can care for them properly. I know of several that are like this. They don't want to know. They would prefer to turn on the system and move on to the next project. Purple Stuff may not be needed if there are no metals in the water. Wasted money if that is the case. Test for iron and copper first. If it is present, find the source. If the test indicates the presence, then it's appropriate. Know the raw chemistry of your fill water. This will help you predict your usage need for certain balancing chems as you go forward. Knowing your pools needs will help you maintain a safe, refreshing, and sanitary body. As I mentioned before, a proper test kit will be crucial for your pool's needs. It will also help you measure a weekly service's ability to maintain your pool should you decide to go that route. Hiring a service does not absolve you of the responsibility. It is still your pool and not all maintenance teams are equal. Scott

I knew this was a Fischer Home as soon as I seen it lol. I know this is an older thread, but thought id put my 2 cents in in case someone else cones across it. The material on the outside of the house is a structual weather barrier. Not only is it water resitant, it also holds a slight R-value, helping to insualte it slightly. There is manufacturer's specs on the install, that is also inspected by the building inspector prior to being covered in siding. It must be stapled in a certain pattern, or will fail the framing inspection. I actually subcontract for Fischer, and have talked to more than one inspector about this product. They say its a better alternative to OSB. Hope things are going well, and you’re still enjoying your home.