i too will periodically dig whole clumps, divide them, replant single stems, and cut off the tops to withing 6" or so of the roots. They will dry down to a shallot-like structure that will store marginally well. They are a very hot tasting onion! I think they are best as a Spring Scallion type onion as they tend to come up as soon as the snow is off the bed. Those stems that bear the top sets are inedible once the bulbills set. Many people use the bulbills like a pearl onion, blanching makes them easier to peel, and they store for a long time. Steve

Most seeds are produced by only a very few actual growers. The seed "companies" you usually buy from are mostly just repackagers of seeds, not growers. There are a few exceptions. So your best bet is usually the cheapest seeds. Here's a link to GardenWeb's resource list. Great info here. Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Web's Garden Bazaar

Take this for what its worth from someone who has little practical experience but has been absorbing everything written about tomatoes for quite awhile now. I could have written your post above word for word. Depending on where in PA you are, we may be neighbors (I'm in Northern Delaware), so similar weather conditions. I have the mysterious wilt that appears out of nowhere and takes down a portion of the plant. I also have those yellow leaves that go from green to pure yellow without EB and other leaves filled with EB. And they aren't exclusive to the bottom portion of the plant. Plus those leaves that hollow out the middle of the plant that ultimately turn brown and crispy with no lesions. Straight up the middle. Wilt that occurs during the heat of the day and they goes away by morning. My thoughts on my garden and perhaps they apply to yours: My tomatoes are planted 3 feet apart in 18 inch diameter 7 foot tall remesh cages. They get 7-9 hours of sunlight. And they've grown between 4-10 feet tall. There's a canopy of greenery when I walk through. Even though there is adequate sun time, I'm not convinced that the plants are getting enough sun due to each other shading the other. I'm guessing that that may be why the centers are yellowing and turning crispy. And possibly why they are stunting and wilting (in some cases) I have explored the different wilts for hours online and in reference books. And my plants just don't fit the profiles. I also can't figure out watering. Seems like such a simple thing. But darn it, I can't figure out if they are thristy, quenched, or drowning. And forget suggesting a water meter--I have 2 of them and I'm still confused. I go back and forth between frustration and thoughts of never doing this again (grin) and total joy last night to discover that my first Black from Tula has a blush! Oh, and my soil was thoroughly enriched in the fall and spring with a dump truck load of mushroom soil/compost and a whole bunch of bunny poop and I'm still seeing the same thing you are. So I don't think it is a nutritional problem. I am planning on spacing my plants out further next year in order to increase air flow and decrease the shading that the plants impart to the others. And again, although it could be bacterial or viral, if your plants are like mine, they don't match up well with the fusarium, verticulum, TMV, or bacterial wilts. I've been using Daconil every 7-10 days and while it is controlling the septoria (I got it on 3 plants) and the EB, I'm still getting the pure yellowing leaves up the center (and outside) and the wilting so then it can't be fungal. So, yes, it is a humungous post, and no I'm not answering your question, but you are not alone. ;o) Christine

"If you reject an idea based on a misconception and it is pointed out, then you'd want to update as to where you stood on the idea once you understand the misconception. To move past it without acknowledgment or decision freezes the process in place. Is the arranging and organizing all worked out as far as you are concerned?" I was under the impression that I was participating in the discussion, so sorry if you felt I wasn't acknowledging your input. That certainly wasn't my intention. But to answer your question I am still trying to decide on the arrangement. I may need to work on this in stages, but at least need some evergreen foundation shrubs. Your graphic, as well as the other input, has convinced me that I do need some verticals in the design, though I question the number of trees in your picture in such a small yard. Now I am considering less grass and more groundcover, especially if we add at least one other tree.