Take this for what its worth from someone who has little practical experience but has been absorbing everything written about tomatoes for quite awhile now. I could have written your post above word for word. Depending on where in PA you are, we may be neighbors (I'm in Northern Delaware), so similar weather conditions.

I have the mysterious wilt that appears out of nowhere and takes down a portion of the plant. I also have those yellow leaves that go from green to pure yellow without EB and other leaves filled with EB. And they aren't exclusive to the bottom portion of the plant. Plus those leaves that hollow out the middle of the plant that ultimately turn brown and crispy with no lesions. Straight up the middle.

Wilt that occurs during the heat of the day and they goes away by morning.

My thoughts on my garden and perhaps they apply to yours: My tomatoes are planted 3 feet apart in 18 inch diameter 7 foot tall remesh cages. They get 7-9 hours of sunlight. And they've grown between 4-10 feet tall. There's a canopy of greenery when I walk through. Even though there is adequate sun time, I'm not convinced that the plants are getting enough sun due to each other shading the other. I'm guessing that that may be why the centers are yellowing and turning crispy. And possibly why they are stunting and wilting (in some cases) I have explored the different wilts for hours online and in reference books. And my plants just don't fit the profiles.

I also can't figure out watering. Seems like such a simple thing. But darn it, I can't figure out if they are thristy, quenched, or drowning. And forget suggesting a water meter--I have 2 of them and I'm still confused.

I go back and forth between frustration and thoughts of never doing this again (grin) and total joy last night to discover that my first Black from Tula has a blush!

Oh, and my soil was thoroughly enriched in the fall and spring with a dump truck load of mushroom soil/compost and a whole bunch of bunny poop and I'm still seeing the same thing you are. So I don't think it is a nutritional problem. I am planning on spacing my plants out further next year in order to increase air flow and decrease the shading that the plants impart to the others. And again, although it could be bacterial or viral, if your plants are like mine, they don't match up well with the fusarium, verticulum, TMV, or bacterial wilts. I've been using Daconil every 7-10 days and while it is controlling the septoria (I got it on 3 plants) and the EB, I'm still getting the pure yellowing leaves up the center (and outside) and the wilting so then it can't be fungal.

So, yes, it is a humungous post, and no I'm not answering your question, but you are not alone. ;o)

Christine

Peter,

I'm not an expert but I do have a few suggestions about your plants.

You might want to put stakes in with the tomato cages (I do this) and then rearrange everything to take the weight off the lower branches. This will also help provide more air circulation among the plants. I'm in a (very this year) hot and usually sunny climate so I keep the plants fairly close together for shade. Again, be careful to keep them well staked so they don't topple on each other. I use twine to tie my plants and check them often to make sure none are bending too out or down.

I keep the soil consistently watered to prevent any wilting, and I never water during the middle of the day.

You might want to get some bone meal and epsom salts to sprinkle into the soil, and stop using sprays (except for organic ones to control aphids, etc.) I had another member of the forum tell me that the less "coddling" of tomatoes helps her get the best results, and I have come to agree with her. Sometimes we tend to make a witch's brew of the soil in our attempts to "help" our tomato friends!

Susan

If you end up pulling a plant, check for root knot nematodes.

Finally someone else has same problem. Bottom of all my 8 foot, still fruit producting tomatoes are yellowing and then curling/browning. I thought maybe I'm not watering correctly? Currently doing it every 2-3 days upon advice from a garden store... had been doing it every day....
I've also sprayed for Vertricullum Wilt.

Have you tried a mix of micronutients like Ironite? Tomatoes need Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, and other micronutrients to form chlorophyll. If your plants are getting >6 hrs direct sun and the temp is >85º, they'll be taking up lots of water and will need it daily.

What do you spray for V. Wilt? I'm under the impression its soil borne.

What do you spray for V. Wilt?

Nothing.

Discard infected plants away from garden areas when it's time to pull them and rotate crops if possible. Frequent additions of organic matter can also help a lot.

Solarizing the soil might also help -- cover with clear plastic, keeping area underneath moist, do for several months during hottest parts of season. To really have an effect, it would involve taking an area out of rotation for an entire season.

I'm under the impression its soil borne.

Yes.

I used Daconil on the plants for the V Wilt...recommended by the garden guy at my store

I used Daconil on the plants for the V Wilt...recommended by the garden guy at my store

deessenyc, I wish it were that simple to treat wilts, because more than a few folks have wilt problems. But your garden guy is misinformed.

Sure, Verticillium Wilt is fungal, and Daconil is a fungicide. However, Daconil is not a systemic fungicide, its primary mode of action is to coat/seal the surfaces of the plant from fungal spores.

As was mentioned before, V wilt is in the soil.

From Texas A&M plant disease handbook:
"Verticillium Wilt (fungus - Verticillium albo-atrum): The first symptom is yellowing of the older leaves, followed by a slight wilting of the tips of the shoots during the day. Older yellowed leaves gradually wither and drop, and eventually the plant is defoliated. Verticillium wilt does not show the one-sided effect as does Fusarium wilt. Leaves from Verticillium infected plants sometimes show brown dead spots that may be confused with those caused by other fungi. However, they are lighter in color and do not show concentric zones as in early blight. In late stages of the disease, only the leaves near the tips of the branch remain alive. When the stem is cut lengthwise, the base shows a discoloration of the woody tissue similar to Fusarium, but is usually darker, and generally it occurs only in the lower part of the stem. The fungus enters the plant through the feeder roots and grows into the stem in the woody conducting vessels just under the cortex. The fungus lives in the soil for a long time and it is exclusively the source of infection. Progress of the disease is favored by cooler temperatures and is retarded by the high temperatures that are favorable to Fusarium wilt. Locating seedbeds and fields in Verticillium-free soil, and using resistant varieties are the most effective means of controlling the disease."