Alton Brown measuring push up tubes?
5 years ago
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- 5 years ago
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Alton Brown Recipe - Kinda Sorta Sour Pickles
Comments (15)I assumed that his recipes would be better than any old one off the net, being the egghead that he is. You are right but then we don't use or recommend "any old recipe off the net" when it comes to long term storage/food preservation anyway. We use only approved and tested recipes from USDA/NCHFP, BBB, Ball Complete Book, So easy to Preserve, extension services, and a couple of other books are tested and approved for home canning/preserving. I am not saying his recipe that you posted is unsafe to make. As Carol and I both said above as long as you keep it refrigerated rather than out on the counter you can do it if you wish however you wish. But understand that it won't keep for long. How long? Can't say - and neither does the recipe apparently. So it is not meant for long term storage if that is your goal - even in the fridge. Listeria still grows, salmonella isn't killed, molds and other bacteria aren't killed in the fridge. Only canning does that. Only processing allows for any long term storage. You say you are afraid to try "real canning". Properly processed canned goods based on tested and approved recipes are far safer then anything stored in the fridge. ;) Dave...See MoreAlton Brown's Ginger Ale
Comments (27)"Traditionally, ginger was not always used in the brewing process itself but was added later." (source: Homemade Root Beer Soda & Pop) Alton's recipe is similar to the one in the book I use, HOMEMADE ROOT BEER SODA & POP, by Stephen Cresswell. You can adjust the ginger to taste. You can make Lemon-Lime Soda with fresh lemons/limes. We also make root beer in recycled 2-litre pop/soda bottles. You can find instructions on-line. I use low-glycemic agave nectar for the sweetener, instead of sugar, and I also prefer Red Star Pasteur Champagne Yeast, instead of Bakers' Yeast, but Bakers' Yeast will work fine. I've never experienced a bottle explosion, but I did go from plastic bottles with screw-caps (you can get new caps for them) to glass bottles with a bail-top as a solution to curb the threat of exploding bottles. I found my supply on eBay. If you squeeze your plastic bottles during fermentation, you'll notice there's a lot of "give" when it's first bottled. When they get hard, it's time to stick them in the refrigerator to stop fermentation. The warmer the temperature, the quicker they ferment. I bottle up a couple small 6-7-oz. bottles to use as "test" bottles. I test the first one after 36-48-hours and the next one after 72-hours. You can also get soft drink Bottling Kits that are fun. See the link below for more information, as well as the book I mentioned above. -Grainlady Here is a link that might be useful: Leener's Brew Works...See MoreCan't push refrigerator back due to water shut-off valve
Comments (19)I'm not sure that you can find a hose end connection of that type that is much shorter. If you don't want to try the other suggestions above, you would do better to find a hose that was less rigid. Refrigerator supply lines generally use small diameter hose, typically 1/4". Mine is 1/4" flexible copper that coils behind the refrigerator and doesn't cause the interference that your large diameter, semi-rigid hose does. They also make plastic hose for refrigerators in smaller diameters than what you have there. A hose as large as yours in this application is not that common....See MoreSmth wrong: Houseplant Leaves Turn Brown And Dry Up
Comments (6)I usually check the soil with a finger - 1/2 inch deepness, if it is wet I never water the plant. I use tap water after 24 hours keeping it in an opened bottle. In this location (Arizona) there are a lot of salts in tap water. What moisture levels are in the top inches of the pot are not a reliable indicator of what moisture levels are deep in the pot. The lower 6" of a 10" pot can be 100% saturated when the top couple of inches are bone dry. The best method of telling if a larger planting needs water is by using a "tell". See something I wrote at the end of this reply. There are good reasons not to let your water sit or rest before you use it to water. 1) It doesn't do any good insofar as allowing monochloramine or fluoride to gas off. 2) Water that's cool (even cold) and fresh from the tap holds much more dissolved oxygen, a notable plus for root health. Unfortunately, I don't have a water softener. Perhaps that's unfortunate for people, but fortunate for plants. The Na (sodium) in the salt used in the exchange for carbonates normally leads to lethal Na levels in the soil solution. I really don't know if the pot has a drain hole (I just take care of the plant temporally) - it's really difficult to check - the plant is approximately my height. But definitely no cache pot for collecting effluent is available. Large plantings without drain holes are decidedly difficult to grow in, so it would be best for whomever owns the plant to make sure it has one. No drain = absolute certainty all salts from tapwater and fertilizer solutions accumulate and remain in the soil. The normal outcome is loss of viability of whatever happens to be growing in the pot. It doesn't matter if the planting has a cache pot or a collection saucer to collect the water, there should be no pathway by which the effluent that collects below the pot can make its way back into the soil. The purpose of watering to beyond the point of soil saturation is to flush salts out of the soil. Providing a pathway by which those salts can reenter the soil solution defeats the purpose of trying to flush salts from the soul before they accumulate to unhealthy/toxic levels. ..... not sure I can help much more because of the unknowns. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support good root health, which is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to a build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al...See More- 5 years ago
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