I have a very similar looking (possibly the same?) plant sold by the name of "Sylvie". Another name I have seen for a variegated ficus elastica is "Tineke". My experience is that it's a pretty easy plant to keep. Southern exposure will help it keep the pink coloration (though the leaves will burn if you suddenly increase the light exposure so you might want to slowly let it adjust to more sun). If you are the type who likes to put your houseplants outdoors during the summer, it will LOVE that. Mine grew like gangbusters from the warmth, sun, and humidity outside. I only stopped taking it outside because I was worried it might have pest problems if I did that.

That's the best part about using the turface. It's almost like cat litter in regards to its change of color from wet to damp to dry. When I initially stuck the cuttings, I loaded the first cup with turface I had just rinsed to reduce the dust particles. Therefore it was damp when stuck. After inserting the dusted cutting, topping with another upside down cup (with hole cut in bottom to slide over stem), I then poured additional turface thru the top hole. Then I watered just until saturated. Lastly, I cut slits in the bottom cup until I was sure it was adequately draining. Other than sticking them in a shaded location and adding water anytime I saw the turface drying out... that was it! With these, just having them next to other plants that were regularly watered on the porch was sufficient. The hole let in just enough, but not too much!

Root congestion causes loss of foliage low on the plant and close to the trunk. Essentially, under root-bound conditions the plant has trouble absorbing the volume of nutrients needed by new growth. To compensate, the plant first extracts nutrients that are mobile in the plant and other bio-compounds and redirects those nutrients to the extension of existing branches - sort of robbing Peter to pay Paul. After the plant extracts all it can from older growth, the older growth is shed. I think that's what's happening to your plant. How much soil do you think you added when you potted up? I want to suggest you flush the soil thoroughly, but don't want your plant to remain saturated for an extended period. Ultimately, I think my plan for the plant (if it was mine) would be to help it through to a point in time where you can move it outdoors, which will really provide a significant shot in the limb as far as growth/vitality is concerned, followed by a full repot that corrects all or most of the root congestion. You also need to get the plant straightened out nutritively, but let's first see what we can do about flushing the soil. Where do you live? That impacts the timing of several operations. How large is the pot the plant is in? Is it cumbersome or can you get it to the kitchen sink? Al

The damage you show is sadly more or less common. It actually happened way back at the very beginning of the new flush by insects (most probably thrips) feeding on the new tender growth. At the very beginning of the new growth, spray the leaves with a horticultural oil, or even a firm spray of water from the hose to remove the feeding insects. Sprays every two or three days until the new leaves firm up will eliminate the distortion. Doing so removes the damage causing insects.