Help! Adopted huge (and unruly) Rubber Tree & could use some guidance.
laurenkimberly888
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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laurenkimberly888
7 years agoRelated Discussions
After siing pics of some pets...could I see some more Please!!!
Comments (65)It gives me such warm fuzzies to be amongst so many wonderful people who loves their furbabies...here's our contribution This is Mama...she was recued in 2001 at a humane adoption...I took her cause I wanted her baby son...couldn't stand the thought of breaking them up...and she ran her son off 3 years later... She's also known as mean ole mama cat cause she's still very afraid and skittish after 8 years! This is the collie clan...Duncan is 9..Abby is 3 and Gabe just turned 8...(yes we had a cupcake party!) DH took this at the soccer fields this week where they get to run wide open!! this is them during a widdle GA snowstorm last winter...they loved it! Duncan Gabe Abby and last but not least...THE Precious Puddy Cat...mostly known as Puddy but also answers to Precious My son's best friend gave her to us 2 years ago when she was just over 6 weeks old and she has absolutely captured my heart...everynight she crawls into my lap for her massage/rubbins...we think she is Berman/Himmy/Persian...but who the heck knows...WE LOVE HER!! here she is being crazy...all she needs is a beer and a cig! I do sooo love seeing all ya'lls animals...It warms my heart......See MoreDamaged Apple Tree -- Could use some help from the experts
Comments (5)Konrad and harvestmann -- thanks again for the insight. Interesting -- hadn't thought about tying up the side branch and turning it into the leader -- will give that a shot. As to rootstock -- I'm not sure about the specific rootstock, but pretty sure it is Semi-Dwarf (possibly standard)... one of the local fruit old-timers who owns the nursery where it was purchased doesn't believe in dwarfs (non-natural) here in the harsh conditions of CO. No grass or weeds... the front yard was actually scraped of grass 3 years ago, and low water local flowering plants were put in, with compost turned in and mulch elsewhere -- still a work in progress. However, it is pretty dry here... and there are some crocus bulbs around the tree (beyond the current drip-line) and 4 gooseberry and current bushes. This spring I'll setup dripline irrigation... peaches and pears in the back already have it. However, I haven't done much in the way of fertilization, and will probably auger some 2" holes and pack with compost and fertilizer this spring -- if that doesn't sound like a bad idea. Just a note -- the only reason the tree was topped was due to the fireblight... there were some small branches at that point, but being a newbie, I didn't make the connection about re-directing that other branch upward, as Konrad pointed out. Thanks for your guidance and for the link -- there's a lot to learn!...See MoreHow to force side shoots on a rubber tree?
Comments (137)I've read most questions and answers on this thread but it's hard to imagine how things are cut. I don't have any background with growing plants at all. My rubber tree shed most of its leaves at the bottom. How do I encourage leaves to grow back on the bottom part so it's not leggy? The leaves were drooping at one point, so I moved it by the window. One leaf has brown edge, and another new leaf on top is dead. I live in England so the weather is dull. Stress is a measure of how well/poorly plants are able to deal with the cultural hand they've been dealt by the grower, who is totally responsible for their well being. For each cultural condition (light, fertility, soil choice, moisture levels, temperature), there is a "sweet spot" where that influence is perfectly suited to the plant and all other cultural conditions. The further away from the sweet spot, or the closer the conditions are to the limits of what Mother Nature programmed the plant to tolerate, the greater the level of stress. Stress unchecked leads to strain, which is a condition that finds the plant using more energy than it's able to to trap from the sun's energy during photosynthesis. Stress, unchecked, always leads to death of the organism. As growers, our only job is to identify what causes stress or strain and correct that influence to the greatest degree possible. From what you wrote, I suspect there are a number of things you do habitually the plant has trouble toleration, light levels being only one. This piece I wrote about Good Growing Practices will allow you to avoid all of the most common pitfalls you're sure to encounter on your journey as a grower; or, it will at least leave you with a sense of what you need to do or what additional knowledge you'll need to add to what you already know in order to become confident in your ability to keep all your green pals happy. There are 2 ways to stimulate growth low on the trunk. Pruning back hard will literally force new branches to grow from dormant buds located immediately above the small scars on the trunk, which serve as evidence a leaf has fallen off recently. If your pruning cut has leaves still attached immediately below the cut, the act of pruning will FORCE new branching in the axil (crotch) formed by the leaf stem and the branch it's attached to. This image is what is called an internodal cutting (as opposed to a tip cutting, which includes the growing end of the branch) from a Ficus retusa tree, so it's closely related to your tree. Even in cuttings, removing the growing tip of a branch forces new branches to form in the axils of leaves immediately below the pruning cut usually referred to as a 'pinch' when the intention is to force back-budding. It appears that new leaves are growing in the axils of the older/mature leaves; however, even though a leaf might be the first thing you notice, the new growth is actually a branch. When a branch grows, it produces leaves from leaf primordia that occur along the branch as it extends. Once that leaf dies, another leaf will never take its place. Instead, all that will grow from that spot on the branch is a new branch - just as you see in the image above. I'm not sure if this is doing you any good, so I'll stop to wait for any questions you might have. Growing consistently well is very easy if you get a few things right. Your biggest obstacle, other than light, is usually water/air relationships in the soil, so making sure you have a strategy in place to limit the potential for an excess amount water to remain in the soil after it stops draining is probably the largest step forward you can take as a container gardener. Questions? Al...See MoreRubber Tree Pruning
Comments (21)It poses no problem from the perspective of the plants physiology or well-being. It just looks unnatural to the eye to have a taller branch thinner than a much shorter branch. If you're fine with that - no problem. To be honest, you're going to end up with curves/angles in all your branches because the new branches that occur will not follow the same spatial planes as the part you removed. When you cut the end of a branch off, a new branch is going to form in one or more leaf axils (crotches) behind the cut. These new branches will grow at an angle to the main branch. The one in the picture looks like it's going to grow at about a 45* angle to the main branch. If it would be to better advantage that the branch in the picture grew to the left instead of to the right, that could have been accomplished by pruning just above the lower leaf on the left. THEN, the new branch that forms will grow to the left instead of to the right. With some mechanical guidance, you can make the branch grow in the direction you want it to grow. More advanced bonsai practitioners can make branches grow wherever we want them to. We can even take an established branch off the right side and move it to the left side of a tree by using a sophisticated grafting technique that takes about 2 years to accomplish. If the tree is deciduous, we can even thread graft, which is accomplished by allowing a thin branch to grow long. When it's long enough and the leaves have fallen, we drill a hole in a branch or trunk and thread the thin branch through the hole and push a small piece of wood into the distal hole so it's pushing the thin branch upward. Very quickly, the cambial tissues grow together and the thread graft is established. At that point, we sever the branch at the back side of the tree. Presto - a branch right where it was needed. This only works on trees with buds that are fairly small in relation to the diameter of the branch. Sorry - I'm off track, but I thought that might be of interest to you. Getting back to your short trunk - fat trunk dilemma ...... if I wanted to do what you are planning, I would prune the trunk you want to, and NOT prune the thinnest trunk at all. I would let it grow w/o any pruning until it became thicker than the other trunks. The more leaves on a trunk/branch the faster it thickens. After the now thinnest trunk became the thickest, I would prune it to a favorable ht in relation to the other trunks. You, however, have the wilting issue to address, so that option is sort of off the table, but you CAN utilize that strategy once your plant recovers if the trunk thickness thing bothers you. I prolly shouldn't have said anything because you'd likely never have thought about that. Still - it's good to know you have options and there are ways to fix issues and take control over how your plant grows and what it looks like. I hope you had a good weekend, and I hope that made sense to you. Al...See Morelaurenkimberly888
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