I have a toto wall hung toilet that is not installed yet. I have Toto Carlyles with one s300 and it is a great washlet. I plan to get a s350 to go with the wall hung. I have seen the duravit wall hung with the Duravit washlet at a local plumbing supply store. It is an expensive combination. I have not seen any reviews of the Duravit washlet so it is hard to judge the performance. The Inax looks a little bulkier on the toilet and not a lot of reviews on it throughout the web. One GW member has the. Inax and raves about it. Although Toto makes its own wall carrier, it is compatible with the Gerberit in wall unit. I think Grohe used to have an in wall unit also. The flush actuators are only compatible with the manufacturers in wall units. One of the flush actuators from Toto was almost $400. I passed on that actuator. Good luck!

Thanks for the responses. Look like I can't use the Geberit as my wall is 2 x 4 build, and there is no room to use 2 x 6. I'm not sure if having the tank inside the wall will be a maintenance issue. Probably a really dumb question... but I assume you would have to tear the wall apart if you ever needed to repair/replace the tank and associated parts? I'm somewhat hooked on a cabinet vanity. To me, pedestal sinks are not very useful... small bathrooms need all the storage space they need and pedestals don't offer any. But thanks for the links. I do like the design... I do have a primitive drawing but don't know how to upload to this forum. I have a CAD drawing but I've made so many changes to the original (which was approved by the city for permitting) that it would be misleading. The reason why I think a shallow 48" would be nice is that I can run it the entire length of the bathroom up to the shower partition... which I would like to tile up to about 40" or a few inches above where the vanity would end, and then glass up to 8" shy of the ceiling. From the shower partition, the shower is about 32" x 66". So it works well in the 7' x 5' 6" square box. Also, going with a long 48" vanity allows me to go really shallow. A very shallow sink/countertop is not as bad if it can be stretched out across a wider area. Total countertop/sink space is what I think people are most concerned with. I might try to find a really shallow sink/vanity... around 14" perhaps. Do you guys think 14" is too shallow for a sink vanity? This would allow me to go with a more standard toilet (round bowl) that hopefully offers dual/flush options. This is an urban zero-energy/smart home with water catchment so I need to go with the most water-sensitive models. I'm hoping to find a model that has a tall tank that will be a little tighter to the wall, now that I know an in-wall tank (e.g. Geberit) won't work. If I can find a nice 26" toilet and a 15" vanity, that will leave 25" of clearance between the vanity and the toilet... and I think this is reasonable. Oh, and the Neorest is very nice... but I'd like to keep my toilet expenditure in the $500-$1,000/each range. I actually need 4 shallow toilets for the project so I have to be a bit more sensitive to the price.

My husband was against a white kitchen, because it shows dirt more than any other color. Would that rationale work for yours? You could also do your uppers in white and your lowers in the pearl gray. I see a disconnect between the shapes and sizes of your cabinets and what your dream kitchens look like. With that beautiful window that goes to the ceiling, I can see why other posters want you to move your upper cabinets up. That would complement the window and feel complete. Right now, the upper cabinets are like a band of brown around the perimeter of your kitchen. But moving the cabs up won't be very practical that high, unless you and your husband play for the NBA: You will need a stool to reach them. I think rather than uniformly moving the cabinets, you should customize them. 1. Take down the uppers on both sides of the window and next to the refrigerator. (Loss of 5 upper cabinets) 2. ReUSE the double-door cabinet currently to the left of the window over to the left of the refrigerator (now you've only lost 3 upper cabinets). 3. If you do want more storage, have a glass door cabinet made. Based on your dream pix, I suspect you are yearning for a china cabinet that goes down to counter height. One cabinet like that is $1-2k? by a local cabinet maker. You may have to hunt for him. 4. Open shelves are a more economical alternative. I myself took off half the cabinets that go over my peninsula. I had a cabinet with glass doors on both sides built for the other half. It was big change, and yet I didn't miss the cabinets I took out. Unless you have an upper lazy susan, I suspect that corner cab is deep and hard to use, anyway. Removing those cabinets will give more focus on your window, your one Victorian detail, and open up the kitchen. Together with your paint color, it will all look more true to the house and less show-room. Your other option would be to keep the existing cabinets, but maybe take off some of the doors. Replace one set with glass doors. Maybe install a wine rack or display shelves in another one. It would be ideal if you could remove the backsplash. It sounds like your walls will need a bit of patching and smoothing before tile installation anyway, so this would just be a little more area to cover. Regarding the chips in your granite, some edge details are more prone to chipping than others, and especially so around the sink, where pans and dishes keep hitting against that edge. So, the install itself may have been perfectly good; just a poor decision on that sink edge. Good luck!

I was thinking about making 2 layers of brick wall (my contractor says each will be 15cm) to hide the tank and pipes. So definitely it will be the opposite of space-saving. But it does help when I insist on sloping the whole bathroom floor. The reason I want to slope the whole bathroom floor is because I never feel that wiping the toilet with disinfectant is enough. I want to be able to wash it and the floor around it completely because, you know, boys urinate there too. I’m just wondering if there are more maintenance consequences with this type of toilet, whether the gasket will wear faster or whether it will leak more. Also, since the tank and pipes will be sandwiched between two brick walls, do I need to create a large panel just in case they need repairs one day? Or is the flush panel enough?