Will tree stumps eventually die if you continuously remove new shoots?
Heruga (7a Northern NJ)
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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callirhoe123
3 years agocecenj
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Killing a tree stump, safely
Comments (8)Cutting off any root suckers and new growth is really the only non-toxic method if you don't want to grub the stump and roots out by hand. It is certainly not an instant fix - you will have to repeat doing this for sometime, but if the tree cannot photosynthesize (and it needs leaves to do so) it will evetually starve to death and die, even all the roots. There are other methods of both killing off trees and any root suckers and removing the stumps but none are considered completely organic as they involve the use of chemicals or petroleum products. Not all types of maples will regenerate from the roots if cut down....you may not have to do anything :-)...See Moreremoving tree stump, replanting with cotinus
Comments (10)my good friend mike.. lives in the wettest place in the world ... lol ... the PNW.. pacific northwest ... now this is what happens just about everywhere else ... to rot.. wood requires water.. lots of water ... so if you plant real close to a large root system ... you can create a real dry area ... which MIGHT be a problem with a transplant ... so just INSURE.. the transplant stays properly moist for a year or two ... next... to rot.. wood steal available nitrogen from the soil ... so.. if in a year or two ... the plant.. being properly watered and all .. starts to yellow a bit .. you will need to fert it.. JUST A LITTLE ... but they are not children..and dont need to be fed.. so the fert.. is ONLY ... a remedy.. should you OBSERVE a problem ... so.. putting.. two and two together.. if you want the stump to rot faster.. after cutting flush to the ground.. hubby could drill some one inch holes in it.. and you could put some fert in those holes.. and then keep it all moist ... and it will speed the rotting along.. somewhat ... regardless.. its going to be there a long time... depending on moisture.. but you are going to hide it with the other.. so i dont know if i would waste the effort on all this ... finally ... you will have. a spectacular mushroom show over the years ... and i suggest you enjoy that for what its worth.. its knowledge.. that there is enough moisture.. for mother natures breaker-downers.. the fungus.. to be attacking..the wood ... you can even trace where large roots were .. by the line of mushrooms ... just enjoy that part.. when they use up the energy stored in the wood.. they will go away on their own ... BTW .. has the stump been treated to die???? .. after the final cut.. you should apply 100% round up.. or stump killer to the EDGE of the stump... the green layer.. just under the bark .... good luck ken ps: and come back.. if you have suckers popping up.. we know how to take care of those also ......See Moreplants continue to die
Comments (23)Hey emee, I still believe you can salvage most of what you have there. As others pointed out, some plants look mostly pretty good. The C. tetragona (aka miniature pine tree) with the brown stem is toast, but save the pieces without brown stems, and cut off just the clean, green top of the ones with brown stems. Leave a nice wide margin to be sure you don't have any rot on the cuttings. Set them out to callous a few days in dry air. You want the scar nice and dry. They're succulents. They're fine with this treatment. Once you have a good scar, pot them in a well-draining soil like Joe described. If you don't want to make your own, there are some cactus and succulent growers/sellers on ebay that will send you a Flat Rate Priority box of their own mix. If you email me at my user name here @aol.com, I'll suggest a couple favorite eBayers with good mixes (and advice, and lovely succulents to sell). Once you have the rot all removed from the cuttings you're salvaging, you have time to wait for soil to arrive in the mail. Succulent cuttings can be soil free for a week or two, or even more depending on the environment. (I've seen some produce roots lying, forgotten, on a table or rock.) Pot the cuttings and barely water them. For cuttings, I sometimes just use the stream of a spray bottle and squirt a few times into the soil at the base of the cutting about once a week. You should be able to use more water with a more porous mix though. The jades will take 4-8 weeks to sprout small roots. They are winter growers, and dormant during the long days of summer (an adaptation to their harsh environment), so they may be slower to root this time of year. That's fine. They may even shrivel slightly. Don't worry about them and don't water them more. You'll know they've rooted when you see a little new growth. The C. tetragona grows pretty fast. I potted some cuttings in January that doubled in size and branched several times before going dormant for the summer. They're fun. Everywhere you remove a leaf, a new branch forms. Makes them good for bonsai and sculpting. I'm sorry Walmart gave you trouble. I'd stick the plants back in their Walmart pots and take them back anyway. Make them get a manager. There is no way you turned a jade plant brown and mushy in 5 days of having it, and 5 days didn't turn roots black either. There was something wrong already, and the store should refund your money. I've brought plants back after a month solely because they were an impulse buy I later regretted. They never gave me any trouble. The plants were healthy, but nevertheless. Whatever you decide to do, I hope you've gotten enough info here to help you save these plants, or grow some lovely new ones. They're nice plants, before giving up and just tossing them out, email me....See MoreWhat Happens if we Grind Up Tree Stumps but Leave the Wood Chips?
Comments (16)Gotcha Dave. Sour is often used to mean acidic, though most folks don't probably realize that when they use the word. But I see what you're saying. For my part, I would never advocate purposely mixing uncomposted woodchips into soil. As a mulch layer over the top-yes, of course. But not mixed in. The other problem with bark or woodchip mulches is their tendency to form a hydrophobic mat. It seems that some of these beneficial fungi which colonize the chip layer, over time, glue the whole thing together with their mycellia. I've already seen it where you can lift an entire tree ring of mulch with one hand like it's all one-piece. The only reasonable method for dealing with this-so far as I'm aware-is to get your three-prong cultivator out and gently work the stuff up. That also freshens its appearance. We use wetting agents to water some of our ornamental plantings in areas where stirring up the mulch isn't feasible, but I wouldn't expect the average homeowner to be purchasing wetting agents! BTW, some folks claim just your general-purpose dish detergent will "work just as well" as the expensive pro stuff. I can tell you from direct experience that's not necessarily so. The big manufacturers of consumer goods like dish detergent vary their recipes as different supplies come and go, or as ingredient prices rise and fall. So you never really know what you're getting. At least with professional wetting agents, they are what they say they are. And it is possible to find relatively low-cost ones, relatively being the operative word there. +oM...See More
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
3 years agoHeruga (7a Northern NJ)
3 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
3 years agoUser
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoUser
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
3 years agoHeruga (7a Northern NJ)
3 years ago
beesneeds
3 years agojrb451
3 years ago
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Heruga (7a Northern NJ)Original Author