Utah, You almost nailed it. Glyphosate sprayed four or five times over eight to ten weeks should keep bermuda out for a least for a few years. Bermuda grass is a perennial grass that spreads by stolons and rhizomes what you are doing each time you spray is killing the bermuda back to a point, because the herbicide can only translocate so far. Then when you spray again two weeks later whatever you did not kill the first time has rolled out new leaves is susceptible to the herbicide. By mowing after the first spray you may have reduced the efficacy of the herbicide. As far as the raking goes, any bermuda grass that did not get killed by the herbicide sprays quite possibly was spread around your yard with the rake. Your best bet bet would have been to spray and then left the yard alone for the winter. Then in the spring bring out the sod cutter and resod. However, if removing the dead sod is not an option I would just lay the new sod right on top of the dead sod. I would skip the top soil as well. The only advantage to bringing in topsoil is to level your yard if needed. When you bring in topsoil there is always the possibility that the topsoil will have some bermuda grass sprigs in it, and then your back where you started. Tilling is not necessary either all your going to do is spread the bermuda around. You might also need to raise any irrigation heads after sodding. If you don't have irrigation then I would suggest tall fescue it is much more drought tolerant. To keep the bermuda grass out of your new lawn make sure you keep a healthy actively growing lawn through out the summer. When and if the bermuda starts to come back you can spot spray it out with selective herbicides turflon and acclaim, if you go with tall fescue, and then reseed. If you go with KBG then just use round up on small spots and resod. Good luck.

>>First, no everything is coming up using a garden rake. See photos. I assume I need to take everything up before replanting. What's a better way to do this? You're fine, I can see plenty of open soil and the remaining tufts don't seem very dense. Mine looked worse. Far worse. :) >>Second, I'm finding some odd "netting" or "webbing" about 1-2 inches under the soil. What is this? Will I need to take this up??? See photo. I think this might be related to the sod that the previous owners planted but am not sure. Is it plastic, or does it break easily when you touch it? If the latter, it could be a fungal mat, in which case it's just a healthy part of your soil. If the former, it could have been something put down to stop erosion when the ground had no cover. If you can get it up easily, great. If not--and if roots go through it--no problem. If it blocks roots, I'd try to get as much out as possible.

I had to do a little research on this one. My read here isn't going to be as good as Logan or UMass. This is an unfamiliar test and I'm going to be gentler than I would be with laboratories I know. (This is also known as I give you a $50-$200 read for free, and for free, I ain't doing that much research. I've caught some guff for that but, hey.) One, for Omaha, if you can rush the seeding, do so. KBG is slow to grow and slow to develop, so try to give it the time to do so before the weather turns. Even here, Zone 7, it's late for KBG. This soil has a split personality, which isn't that unusual for new construction. It does mean that reading the below will be a little tough. Sorry about that. pH: 6.8, 8.3: I already have a headache and we're barely started. :-) What's interesting is that your percentages support the 6.8, and in no way support the 8.3. This is another reason for me to be gentle with any changes. CEC 24, 22: Very close, which I'd expect on soil from the same property. However again, with the numbers and percentages listed, this doesn't support the 8.3 pH reading out front. Nitrate: Ignored. Nitrogen levels fluctuate during the course of the day. If the grass is growing fine, it's not a problem. Organic Material 1, 2.5: Low across the board here. I set the "Good" percentage at 4%, with excellent at 6%. 2-4% is fair, 0-2% is poor. In your case, if you're sure the roughstem bluegrass is gone, you can mulch mow. If not, bag it until it is. Consider organically feeding to raise this as it's limiting how well your synthetic fertilizers work and how much water your soil holds (probably not much). Calcium 70%, 73%: Optimal, no lime required. Magnesium 21%, 23%: High, although not unreasonably so. This will tend to lead to a tight, hard soil when dry. There's no reason to dispel any Mg as it's certainly not toxic. The baby shampoo/Suave method we chatter on about will help out a bit here, as will organic material. Potassium 4%, 6%: Optimal to a bit high. High K causes no issues within reasonable range (and this is reasonable). None required, however. Phosphorus 7, 38: Very low and very high respectively. If you've used starter fertilizer recently in the back, this could account for it. I'm extremely hesitant to suggest anything for the front without a confirming test on this as this kind of discrepancy would be very unusual. Minor elements (Sulfur, Zinc, Boron, Manganese, Iron, Copper): Not tested. Next time, I'd suggest having these tested to get a base line. Not knowing sulfur levels would make it difficult to adjust your particular calcium level (as the pH is already optimal), potassium, or other minor elements. Although called minor or trace, most of these are critical to proper plant health (just as you require trace minerals or you get sick).

Ignore my seed suggestions and listen to TW. The 700 sqft lawn has too much shade for bermuda. You might send a soil test to Logan Labs and post it back here to see what morph has to say about the soil chemistry. TW's comment on salt has me concerned. I've seen St Aug growing from the sand dunes out into the sea, so I'm not too concerned about that, but I'm wondering what salt there is in PHO. You would be better off waiting for the old grass to revive than to seed with new. Established roots work better and faster than new roots. As I usually mention to people who are impatient with their bermuda coming out of dormancy...give it time and you'll be laughing that you ever suspected there was a problem. Now with the shade, you do have a problem. Your steps need comment: Kill everything with roundup. This is fine. Wait 2 weeks, then mow to lowest setting. Oops! Don't wait 2 weeks. Water the area daily to try and sprout all the weed seeds you can. Then spray with RU again a week later. Rake up all the debris. This is good Aerate the soil with rental from homedepot. No need for this step. If you have hard soil, then use shampoo on it. Spread the bermda seed, and add top soil. YIKES! No. Scatter the seed and roll it down with a rented water fillable roller. For really small areas, just walk on all the seed to ensure good seed-to-soil contact. Don't add topsoil unless you are trying to raise a low spot on the yard. Adding topsoil WILL change your drainage. There's another recent post on this forum where the guy has a broken house from water backing up into his garage and then freezing between the bricks. His pictures indicate too much top dressing caused the water to not drain into the yard but instead back up to the buildings.