Utah,
You almost nailed it. Glyphosate sprayed four or five times over eight to ten weeks should keep bermuda out for a least for a few years. Bermuda grass is a perennial grass that spreads by stolons and rhizomes what you are doing each time you spray is killing the bermuda back to a point, because the herbicide can only translocate so far. Then when you spray again two weeks later whatever you did not kill the first time has rolled out new leaves is susceptible to the herbicide. By mowing after the first spray you may have reduced the efficacy of the herbicide. As far as the raking goes, any bermuda grass that did not get killed by the herbicide sprays quite possibly was spread around your yard with the rake. Your best bet bet would have been to spray and then left the yard alone for the winter. Then in the spring bring out the sod cutter and resod. However, if removing the dead sod is not an option I would just lay the new sod right on top of the dead sod. I would skip the top soil as well. The only advantage to bringing in topsoil is to level your yard if needed. When you bring in topsoil there is always the possibility that the topsoil will have some bermuda grass sprigs in it, and then your back where you started. Tilling is not necessary either all your going to do is spread the bermuda around. You might also need to raise any irrigation heads after sodding. If you don't have irrigation then I would suggest tall fescue it is much more drought tolerant. To keep the bermuda grass out of your new lawn make sure you keep a healthy actively growing lawn through out the summer. When and if the bermuda starts to come back you can spot spray it out with selective herbicides turflon and acclaim, if you go with tall fescue, and then reseed. If you go with KBG then just use round up on small spots and resod. Good luck.

I love it! This is the first post by joneboy that I completely agree with!

I will offer a different alternative for the future, though. See if this lawn looks good to you...

{{gwi:79340}}

That lawn belongs to bpgreen, a Salt Lake City resident. It is comprised of various wheatgrasses (Western, Streambank, and Crested), blue grama, and a little strawberry clover. There is also some residue of KBG in there, which is what he started with. This lawn goes without supplemental water until about June. Then his lawn care program starts. He mows once per month and waters about once per month for the rest of the growing season. I believe he fertilizes once per year in the fall. It doesn't get any easier than that and the results are pretty darned nice.

Google "bpgreen wheatgrass grama" and try the first couple of links. I would link directly, but that is a no-no from Gardenweb. That other site is their biggest competition for lawn care forums.

This is a good idea by dchall, unless of course the OP wants to spray any broad leaf weeds (dandelion, buttercup, chickweeed, henbit, mallow, spurge, etc.) that pop in or around a patch of clover. Also, the herbicides used to control bermuda grass will kill the clover and may injure the kentucky bluegrass. Blue gramma is more of a warm season grass that will be dormant most of the year.Blue gramma also does not do well over 6500 ft of elevation. However, the pic dchall posted looks like it is about ninety percent kentucky bluegrass. Other options include buffalograss and fine fescues. Buffalograss, also a warm season grass, requires less inputs once it is established but you run into to problems trying to control bermuda grass with herbicides again. Buffalograss establishment is very slow, and does not do well above 6500 ft elevation. A blend of fine fescues would be another low input option and no issues with herbicides, but the fine fescues are not very traffic tolerant and are also slow to establish. Really it all depends what your looking for in a turfgrass. Kentucky bluegrass will give you the highest quality turf if your willing to maintain it at a high level, more water, fertilizer, and more susceptible to disease. Tall fescue can also give you a high quality turf, especially with the newer varieties like Bullseye, with less inputs than kentucky bluegrass and more tolerant of the herbicides used to control bermudagrass. Tall fescue, however, will not be as tolerant of traffic as kentucky bluegrass