Hi KraZbuderfly, I have a balcony something like yours, cocked to slightly face northeast, slatted, but on the end. The end faces west and the other end is blocked. I have an overhead balcony too, limiting the light somewhat. I've lived here for 5 years (6th spring), so have had lots of time to experiment. Still experimenting! LOL Currently I have: Perennials Climbing rose (on west end) Peony (just planted last year, but it's coming up now) Pink carpet hanging rose (both roses were planted last year) Columbine Hosta Astilbe Pansies Ornamental grass Fern (no sign yet this year) Great Blue Lobelia (no sign this year) Vines 3 clematises Morning glories - planted indoors, ready to go out if they don't die first from planting too soon, last year they did fine I grew a Sweet Autumn clematis for three years but got tired of it and wanted something else. Shasta Daisies (treated as an annual so I could plant the peony) Water Garden This did well the first year because I had the right plants in it. It's declined every year since. This year we're going to clean it out and only put things in that will grow in the shade, like water lettuce, water hyacinth, a tiny bit of duckweed or Spanish Lace. We haven't decided what else. Herbs I'm not much for veggies, but do grow a little parsley, chives and some feverfew in a self-watering pot. I've grown a lot of other herbs that have done well. Here's this year's pot: The feverfew came back from last year. The parsley is a little small, so will replace it. Chives are doing fine. Bulbs Snowdrops Puschkinia Tulips Daffodils Lilies (Asiatic and Orientals) Annuals Last Year Torenia Sweet alyssum Coleus (I have Glennis coming) Plectranthus Mimulus Verbena Blue Moon lobelia (does great every year) Here's what it looks like so far this year: We look west to the mountains with Denver in the foreground. I know what you mean about some things not succeeding because of something you did. I let my mimulus dry out last year, same with astilbe. But I'm DETERMINED this year not to let anything dry out!! I have a few self-watering pots, and they're the greatest, but then I don't think they need as much watering and I forget to fill the reservoirs. It's a lot harder in August than it is in June! LOL Hope you'll post some photos too. Here's two of last year: East End This is fun! I hope you've got high speed access. I didn't realize how big these photos would be. Sorry... Judith

Eric_oh - Nigella in Upstate NY - they bloom for about a month in midsummer (June-July), then form their balloon-shaped seed pods. They reseed freely, and their seedlings form a fuzzy green carpet in the fall, overwinter without trouble, and grow on in the spring. Their foliage and seed pods look scruffy (totally dry) by September, so I pull them out then, and sprinkle the seeds where I want them (or harvest them to share). I have three mixed borders in my yard (suburbia, but a nice little lot bordering a wooded ravine). The widest border (full shade under hemlock trees for half its lenghth) is about 12 feet deep by 75 feet long. The others are both about 9 feet deep by 30 feet long. I wish they could be deeper, but then I'd have no lawn and the kids would have no place to play, LOL - they were unhappy when I took over part of the back yard for an island bed the last two years, so I'll be shrinking that bed this year to give them a little more room. SO, the point of this is that I've had to keep the shrubs in proportion to my smaller mixed border depth. I can only dream of a border that's 30' by 90' - that's almost my entire yard, LOL! In a small yard I have different issues than if I had a large lot. For instance, I can't use a full-sized lilac by the sidewalk (it would block the line of sight down the road from the driveway - a safety issue), so I planted lilac 'Wonderblue,' a "dwarf" that should max out at 6 feet tall. Nice plant, gorgeous flowers. And, my neighbor might not appreciate having a forest planted on the property line, so I have to be respectful of her view, too. Fortunately, she likes looking at my garden, and doesn't mind the border shrubs at all. The backbone of that front border is a mix of five shrubs: a tall lilac nearest the house ('Krasavitsa Moskvy'), which I'm training to be more tree-like and vertical than bushy and spreading; a butterfly bush ('Plum Purple,' dies back most years, stays 4-6 feet tall/wide), rose of sharon 'Blue Bird' (very vertical, self seeds like mad though), philadelphus/mock orange 'Virginal' (again, more vertical than spreading), and then the 'Wonderblue' lilac by the sidewalk. In front of those is a mix of perennials and annuals: peonies, tall bearded and siberian irises, daylilies, white echinacea, a spiny acanthus, pennisetum alopecuroides, culinary sage (makes a nice shrubby, furry texture), chrysanthemum 'Emperor of China,' Stokes asters, plumbago, rose campion, nigella 'Miss Jeckyll Blue,' alyssum, sempervivums, snapdragons, a campanula (from a garden swap - hopefully it will bloom this year; it seems to be a bit invasive and might have to be moved), nicotiana 'Lime Green,' and I'm sure I've forgotten something. I wish I had a good full-length picture of the border, but it's still young - only three years old now, so it's a work in progress. (These pictures are all PD - pre-digital camera. I'll be sure to get better pictures this year.) This is the only overview picture I have of it, from May of 2005, right after heavy rain caused the retaining wall to fall over into the border - AAACCKK! It looks much better now, really. This is the shady end of the longest border. You can't see in this photo, but I've included two Kalmia (mountain laurels) that should eventually give some nice form. At the back of the border, beside the house, is a doublefile viburnum - amazing foliage and delightful flowers. Again, I'm having to manage its spread a bit - I planted it several years ago, then realized it would get wider than I anticipated. The rest of the area on the left of the path is filled with hosta, lady ferns, variegated solomon's seal, pachysandra, two rhododendrons at the back by the fence, toad lilies, lamium 'Hermann's Pride' and 'Chequers,' a dwarf fothergilla shrub, and in the summer with impatiens. I could probably have gotten away with having NO shrubs and only perennials in this area if I really wanted to, but in the winter it's a straight swatch of barren mulch without the shrubs to break it up. The front (sunny) end of the long border. It's got a backbone of rose of sharon (2), rose 'Roseraie de l'Hay,' lilacs 'Andenken an Ludwig Spaeth' and 'Blue Skies,' rose 'Blaze,' a mugo pine, and an unknown rose (I think it's rosa multiflora, planted by a bird - I have to manage it diligently to keep it in bounds, but I love the sprays of white flowers and its tiny hips). That bed includes tall bearded irises, peonies, pennisetum alopecuroides, salvia 'May Night,' sedum 'Autumn Joy,' aster 'Blue Bird,' knautia, stachys byzantina, an unknown pink aster, daylilies, thrift, geranium 'Brookside' (an incorrigible flopper/spreader, but great flowers), yarrow 'Moonlight,' echinacea, hosta 'Minuteman,' clematis 'Duchess of Albany, climbing one of the rose of sharon bushes), white valerian, alyssum, and others, underplanted with clusters of spring bulbs (daffodils, tulips, and iris reticulata). This border has the fewest annuals of any of my garden areas. The reason for the dense planting of shrubs at the back was at first practical rather than aesthetic: the heavy planting (supposedly) keeps the neighborhood kids from riding their bikes through that area in the winter. . . . Laurel

Want to expand your z5 semitropical and "tropical" options? Indiana Rick's website is inspirational! So many usefulul ideas there. I agree don't give up until you've tried it 3x and tested some tricks! Hardy Tropicals for Zone 5 !!!!! http://www.manchestergardenclub.com/rick/Tropicals/Tropicals.htm ________ Mulched here now in my more "gentle" z8b, until I have a backup clump stored to go "cold turkey". No the impressive Canna 'Durban" = 'Tropicanna' doesn't throw lower red spires! That's a compact Lobelia 'Starship Red' which has nice contrasting rich green leaves. This Cardinal Flower was easy to grow from seed* (as are Canna) and gets the hummingbirds darting all around to enhance the tropical theme. I like L. 'Vulcan Red' as well to for contrast. Dark maroon leaved and also more compact than L. 'Queen Victoria' with no staking needed. * After using many over the years, the best seed starting method that I've used over the years is a biodome and sponge block system or similar. Works best with heatmats and bright plant light. Effective, efficient, durable, flexible, and small footprint. http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/4412727/looking-for-a-reliable-seed-starting-system

Lovage is a tall perennial herb that has a strong celery taste and can be added to your recipes. It is a nice green backdrop at the back of the garden. Some parsley in the front. Replant parsley each year. It is a biennial, a 2 year life cycle, but I've never had it do anything the second year. Sage is a beautiful green-grey plant with fuzzy leaves. It is a perennial, wonderful with chicken and even in tea. The violet-blue flowers (color varies) are beautiful and great bumble-bee magnets. Oregano is very hardy and tolerates (actually it kind of required) very regular harvesting. It is a perennial with pink-lavender flowers. Basil, too many varieties to count and wonderful in pestos, thai cuisine, tomato sauces, fresh mozarella/tomato/basil salad and more. Easy to start in-doors and transplant out or direct sow if conditions allow. An annual, if you are wondering. Chives, a wonderful perennial onion relative. Lovely topped on eggs, baked potatoes, in salads, etc. They have lavender flowers which are edible too. Garlic is wonderful addition. They bloom white (the classic ball-like blooms of the allium family) and can be harvested for bulbs or greens. The hardneck varieties, as noted in other posts, are the most hardy. Some nasturiums. They are annual flowers but they are lovely and the flowers and leaves taste wonderful and peppery in salads. Depending on the variety, they can trail and wander a bit but harvest off what gets in the way. Tuck in a beautiful cayenne pepper. The plants are pretty and the peppers are wonderful! Beauty and usefulness! Annual, of course. Dill, cilantro (coriander), and anise are easily started from seed and are annual plants used for seed or leaf. Too many recipes to note for these! If allowing to set for seed, they can tall, especially dill. A nice rugosa rose tucked in the garden will offer up lovely tasting flower petals or hips in the fall. The rugosa is a hardy, large hip producing rose that needs little to no pruning. Some sweet violets tucked under larger plants offer some very tasty flowers as well as beauty. These come out early and will race the chives to be the first to bloom in an herb garden. Add to this some pot marigold or calendula. One of my favorites and once it starts to bloom it will do so until the killing frost in the fall. The plant can be used for culinary uses but mostly medicinal. It is a great pollinator attractor. Annual and dead simple to start from seed. I focused on some simple and easy edibles for you. FataMorgana