I agree with paintguy. Acrylics increase their adhesion with time. What scraps off after 2 hours may well be adhered after 2 days. As to Behr paints, I have personally made test samples of Behr Ultra, Marquee and WB Alkyd over sections of hard, slick, high gloss oil paint. I hand these to customers and defy them to scratch it off with their fingernails. They are wearing thin with literally hundreds of tries, but they are still intact! Wanting to see the worst case scenario, I did not sand or de-gloss the oil paint. I am an old school painter, raised on oil pains and somewhat of a doubting Thomas. I have become a believer. If someone's paint is "balling up", I would wonder what is on that surface? Was it cleaned of oils from hands or other pollutants?

Hello Ivette! WOW! Are you serious?! EIGHT coats...hoo boy! Ralph Lauren (made now by ICI paints) has greatly improved over the last 5 yrs. If you use RL again, look for the newest 35xx tint-base numbering. The previous numbering system was 15xx. Example, the current Eggshell Brilliant-White tintbase is 3591. For a Satin dark color (Neutral base), it's 3293. We sell lots of Ralph L. "Reds" where I work, and we don't let people out the door without gray-primer to go with it! You DO need a 5-6 hr. drytime between coats though! There's about 13oz's. of colorant in those reds, so it dries SLOWER. It takes a full 1.5 minutes for our computer tinters to dispense a gallon of it! Doesn't matter what "brand" of red it is, gray is the proper background. About 1/3 of the time, a 3rd coat may be necessary if the wall is strongly lit. I love the Ralph L. reds, and many of our clients do too. Some have even come back to thank us for "forcing" the gray-primer on them! See ya, Faron

I'm afraid I can't call the contractor for advice at the moment....he had knee surgery this week. I let the skim coat cure about 10-14 days before priming. I guarantee there was very little humidity during the curing process; Utah is a desert climate and anything above 20% in the summer is considered "humid". I know the walls were free of debris before the skim coating was begun, and I know it's not a problem with the skim coating itself not adhering. When the paint came off with the tape the skim coated surface beneath was intact. I don't have the brand of the compound that was used but I know it was not pre-mixed......my children had a lot of fun watching the compound being mixed in the back yard with the giant "cake mixer" drill attachment. Yesterday I did repair the appearance of the jagged edges where the paint came off by sanding, priming, spackling, sanding, priming, and re-painting and everything looks great now........but I can't help be worried that my careful paint job is eventually going to bubble up and come off the walls.

Dryfall is a product used to spray ceilings and metal/ductwork in commercial buildings. They use it because you spray it on and the overspray turns into dust before it hits the ground so it can be swept up. Why do you have that? What you need for painting over stained cabinets is a good, bonding type primer. This is a critical step. If that first coat isn't adhered, then peeling will be an issue forever. BIN, Benjamin Moore Fresh Start or Sherwin Williams Pro Block are good.