Yeah...there's never a 100% correct answer for this scenario! You did the perfect prep by physically sanding the trim! * Priming would be the "Ideal", but if existing paint was cleaned/firm/well-attached, the benefit of priming is minimal. * If you're in the "It's gotta look damn-near perfect" expectation-level, then yes...prime....and lightly scuff-sand the primer after its dried for a half-day! * Your white-ish color has the best "hide/opacity" of a particular tint-base series. Two finish coats preferred however for best color-depth, gloss-developement, and durability. Faron

Brushworks, thank you very much for your information. I finished sanding with 80 grit sander. Do I need to sand again with 150 grit and 220 grit before applying the primer? Does BM Fresh Start seal and bond well? I am afraid varnish is not 100% clear in some nooks and crannies. Is Ben Moore oil based enamel undercoater a good primer and easy to apply? It helps produce a very smooth surface. I never used oil based paint. Really appreciate your help.

Use Cabinet Coat - no primer necessary applied to lightly scuff-sanded, clean cabinet surfaces. CC is respectable in terms of VOCs.

Hi, I am in the middle of painting my oak cabinets. The prep is long and grueling..but worth it. I used a product called Pore-o-Pac, oil based. It is a brush on wood grain filler. Very time consuming, did 2 coats on each door front (not the backs) and all the cabinet frames. You cannot see the grain through the paint. This is what I did: Sanded the surfaces with 180 sandpaper, washed with TSP. Let dry thoroughly (and then a little longer)...Then painted the grain filler on. (My little trick is to buy an empty one gallon container, dump the qt size grain filler can into it. This way you can stir it up very nicely. You can thin this product with mineral spirits.) You leave it on for a few minutes, then use the scraper to scrape across the grain at a 45 degree angle. Next it says to wipe it off in the direction of the grain lightly (I guess so as to not pull it out of the grain). Let it dry for 24 hours. Then, if you really want to hide that grain..do it a 2nd time. I even did 3 coats on 2 doors that were very heavily grained. Also, as you are scraping it off, I would just dump it back into my container, if the product started to get too thick--just add the mineral spirits! It does take a long time, but really--no grain! Oh yeah, another little tip: The ends of my cabinets are laminate--the fake wood to look like the grain. I used a product that is a primer for painting over plastic. I got it at Lowe's, it is their brand--sort of like the Krylon Fusion, but it was a clear primer. After I sealed off the area where there would be overspray, I just followed the directions, and then I was able to follow it with the primer I used on the cabinets! So far so good. Make sure there is plenty of ventilation!!!!! As I mentioned up above, I bought 2 quarts of this stuff, it really goes a long way. Good luck! Here is a link that might be useful: Pore-o-Pac