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Which primer would be better for painting honey oak cabinet?

10 years ago

I am still sanding the cabinet doors, drawers, and frames, so many cabinet doors. Some were sanded to raw wood because of the worn surface, and some were slightly sanded especially the cabinet back and big panel on the side and under the breakfast bar.

Which primer would be better to be used?
1) Zinsser Primer Plus
2) SW PreRite ProBlock latex primer (Can this be painted on raw wood?)
3) SW PreRite Classic primer
4) Zinsser smart primer.

Thank you very much.

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Comments (10)

PRO
Christopher Nelson Wallcovering and Painting
10 years ago
Zinsser Bullseye 123 would do the job just fine and be less expensive than all the ones you listed
Michael
10 years ago
Keep in mind that the raw wood sections will have a raised grain caused by latex primers. Just simply sand it down with 320 grit paper.

I'd choose BM Fresh Start for the job.
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I am doing this even as we "speak!" I am only waiting for drying time between coats. I am also painting bare-wood cabinets and will be painting them all to match. First, I totally agree with ajc71 with the harsher sandpaper. I experimented today and got that crazy polish from the 220. Second, I have also been experimenting with brush-on primer vs. spray-on, and let me tell you, the difference is night and day! I brushed Glidden Gripper onto my base cabinets and doors, and it raised the grain on my unfinished cabs. Not too big a deal, but I did have to go back and re-sand then touch up with primer. Then I spray-primed the unfinished upper cabinet doors with original Kilz (removed them and took them to the garage) and the difference was night and DAY! Not only was it faster the finish was awesome, and coverage was excellent. You can bet your sweet bippie I will be doing the rest of the doors with a spray primer, even if I have to get something better-suited to pre-finished doors. Stiles will still get the brush-on, mostly because I do not want to have to deal with spray in the house. The sanding will be bad enough. Good luck!
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Mythic paint has a great FB page with projects from users. I had not heard of this paint and was curious regarding your comment about experiences in using it. There are links to blogs and many comments about using the paint for furniture, floors, cabinets, etc. One of them is about an artist who paints murals, these are like the Italian chapels walls/ceilings. Amazing lady to read about. I added a link to one photo which amazes me, a beautiful staircase. The link goes through a ton of photos and references to projects written up in mags. If they can do this on stairs, one would consider kitchen cabinets to work well. Perhaps find a store that sells the paint and ask in depth questions regarding your project. It appears their dealers are all over the world and US. Here is a link that might be useful: Stairs
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I'm going to bug you again about your other corner cab. I don't see much in that cabinet. It looks like decorative dishes. You could run shelves in place of that cabinet too. Now your window is wide open and your main prep area between sink and stove no longer has that hulking box overhead. You could stop there, but I'd change the cabinets on that wall. You could add 12-15" matching cabinets on the sides of the MW hood. I did a price check at Barker Cabinets. A 12"w x 30"h Shaker cabinet in paint grade alder with MDF center panel is $132. End panels, which you'll need two of, are $60. The two door hood cabinet is $217. They do have the contemporary hood cabinet that flips up, but they don't have the hinges that hold it open, but that style would be cool for your kitchen. Or you could get oak cabs to match the lowers and gel stain them. You might get by with just one new 12" upper cabinet and new doors to match the other uppers in that case. You would have to pay shipping from Oregon, so you may find a closer place like Scherr's or Conestoga Cabinets. All make high quality cabinets and doors. Or try a local cabinet maker. IMO it's a small investment for a big impact.
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You have lots of options. On the Innermost cabinet website, there's a tool that allows you to look at various finishes on oak. The have some whites and other colors, some in a sheer treatment that deliberately shows the grain. Apparently the latest thing. http://www.innermostcabinets.com/more-style/door-gallery There's also a traditional process called "cerused oak," which is essentially white wax over a stain treatment, where the stain can be any color. Here's a decorator who cerused a little secretary: http://littlegreennotebook.blogspot.com/2015/09/diy-cerused-oak-secretary.html
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PRO
Christopher Nelson Wallcovering and Painting
10 years ago
quote "I'd choose BM Fresh Start for the job."

If I did not have to drive 40 miles, I would also :-)
tbo123
10 years ago
I like Bins.
janesylvia
Original Author
10 years ago
Thank you very much for all your help.
janesylvia
Original Author
10 years ago
Brushworks, thank you very much for your information.

I finished sanding with 80 grit sander. Do I need to sand again with 150 grit and 220 grit before applying the primer? Does BM Fresh Start seal and bond well? I am afraid varnish is not 100% clear in some nooks and crannies. Is Ben Moore oil based enamel undercoater a good primer and easy to apply? It helps produce a very smooth surface. I never used oil based paint. Really appreciate your help.
Michael
10 years ago
Yes...you must sand it smooth. Progressive sanding will create the smooth finish. 80 grit will most likely leave a rough finish that will transfer through the paint film. Finish with 180 grit prior to primer.

Fresh Start will seal and bond to any clean, dull surface.

I wouldn't opt for alkyd primer. Not needed.

If you want ultra smooth, allow primer to dry for 24 hours (or until primer will dust when sanded) and lightly sand with 320 grit.
janesylvia
Original Author
10 years ago
Brushworks, thank you very much for your information, very helpful.

I am now sanding with 150 grit. I'll use BM Advance simply white for final paint. I just noticed BM now has Advance Primer. How is it compared with BM Fresh Start Primer?

Thank you very much.

Here is a link that might be useful: BM Advance primer
Michael
10 years ago
The Advance Primer takes forever to dry and will not sand well until it's thoroughly dry.

Fresh Start dries fast and is ready to coat in one hour. Advance recoat is 8 hours.

The Advance primer will not perform any better than the Fresh Start and Fresh Start is approved as a primer for Advance Alkyd Waterborne.
janesylvia
Original Author
10 years ago
Brushworks, thank you so much for your help.

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