Garden roses generally want sun and moist soil of ample fertility. So mulch yours with compost and water liberally during dry periods. Also look at leaf undersides to see what that yellow blotching is being caused by. Such as insects. Or if is instead interveinal chlorosis then there is a minerals problem with the soil or irrigation water.

More sun and better soil and water would help. It does not like that location.

I think I'd dig it up, cut it back but leave a few leaves, and pot it up. It looks too spindly to survive a move well, but I have revived roses that aren't happy in their spot by potting them up. Of course, some people don't like to take care of plants in pots and I do look after mine every day. I'd put it in dappled light at first, then increase light, and mulch the top of the pot to insulate and conserve moisture. Once the plant is a lot sturdier and the roots fill in the pot then you could plant it in more sun . Perhaps plant when the heat breaks in fall.

Do plants do well in other parts of your yard? If not, you might need to amend your soil. If they do do well, your rose should do better in that part of your yard.

If you dig it up and pot it up I'd just give it water at first and then after a couple of weeks give it some dilute Miracle Grow or such. The ground around your plant looks kind of greyish and I don't see any mulch. It could be too dry and definitely too shady.

Never amend individual planting holes and other small areas intended for the growth of woody and other long term plants - doing this may often create problems with how water enters and exists the amended zone. With new plantings being dwarfed as a result, until their roots escape the modified area - at which point a normal rate of growth resumes. This may result in the false conclusion that the amending promoted growth.

Or if the circumstances created by the amending are sufficiently adverse drowning or drying out of the plants may even result.

You all, I have to admit, after reading these comments I'm even more confused. Sounds like I should do a slow transplant where I let it have sun back gradually after the move but I'm still not sure about whether adding soil amendments is any good. Or just mulch. Not sure.

Embothrium posts this on a lot of discussions, although I'm not sure why. Doesn't seem to make sense to me considering you either buy own root roses or potted roses that are grown in potting soil or you buy bare roots which come with no soil at all. Not sure how they would know the difference.

I only have anecdotal evidence, but haven't had a problem mixing any kind of potting soil with my heavy clay.

peowmow, I think you rose doesn't like the shade. I have several that are growing VERY slowly because they aren't getting enough sun.

You are correct that a slow transplant is the best advice.

I didn't say amend the individual potting hole.

From what I've read amending an individual potting hole can create a " bathtub" effect in which the water sits in the amended area and can't penetrate or drain into the non-amended surrounding soil. I think that would be true in a heavy , clay soil.

In my garden, which has light, fast draining soil , I don't think amending the hole would do that. It might help the area retain water but not so much it would fail to drain. Soils are different... one size doesn't fit all. Buying clematis plants this year I think two or three nurseries recommended amending the hole. There are different opinions about doing that.

So how is your soil in the sunny parts of your yard, peowmeow? My advice was to dig up, pot up, give it a break from full sun for a short time, then give more light. I would not transplant it from where it is to full sun right away. I can't say you need soil amendments but you might.

Any procedure that places a plant within a small area of one soil texture surrounded by a much larger area of different texture can and often does result in the movement of water into and out of the small area being adversely affected. All that is necessary for this water related issue to occur is that there be a difference in textures between the small amended area and the larger, unaltered area around it.

Slower establishment of plants placed in amended planting holes began to be noticed by accident at the university level in the 1960s. Multiple subsequent organized trials exploring this aspect intentionally have had consistent recurring outcomes.

Amending of large areas - while avoiding the water movement problem except at the edges of the beds - for woody and other long term plants still has the problem of any organic materials used decomposing and disappearing long before the typical intended life of the planting is over. So that the original planting might as well have been made into loosened existing soil, without the addition of amendments.

The Myth of Indisputable Information

"Nursery brochures are always the best sources of appropriate planting practices”

https://s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/planting-instructions.pdf

Horticultural Techniques for Successful Plant Establishment

https://s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/Planting-fact-sheet.pdf

Thanks for the clarification.