You don't say who manufactures the self-leveler. Although some underlayment manufacturers don't recommend their products installed over VAT, it can be done successfully. You have to use the primer that will stick to the VAT. If this was Ardex K15, you would first apply their P-82 primer (P-82 will stick to almost anything). Another way to approach your job is to use Ardex Feather Finish (or the Armstrong-branded equivalent). This product is mixed with water and then applied to the floor with a straight edge trowel and levelled (screeded) as you would regular cement. Yes, that method it quite a deal more work than straight self-leveler. Feather Finish also will stick to almost anything. It is peculiar that the primer you are using is beading up...this leads me to believe that there is floor wax on the VAT, not just acrylic floor polish. Perhaps another round of cleaning with a wax remover might be in order.

Amen, Glenn. I started when I was 12 helping Dad on weekends and evenings when Mom worked. At 15, I helped during evening weekends, and summer vacations (and getting paid!) when he went out on his own. At 17, I went to the Armstong School of Resilient Installation to learn all that I could, which was before certifications. They confirmed shool completions back then but didnt "certify" as they do now. All my life I have been taught on the job and Dad pulled me aside when other co-workers and his bosses did things inappropriately to save time and cut corners, telling me this isnt the way you should do this, but we do what we have to when we work for someone else. Every facet from pattern scribing inlaid resilient sheet in a room full of pipes and old radiators, all the way down to professionally and expertly installing vinyl/rubber cover base corners. Nothing was too big or too small to do right. At 21, me and Dad had a falling out in business. He had his own busienss now doign commercial and residential subcontract work and was becomming like so many others we laughed at and despised for doing shoddy work to make a buck, then I went out on my own. I am not maligning my Father. I love Him and he taught me pretty much evrything I know, but I couldnt do the work he was asking me to do anylonger when I knew it wasnt right. He had changed. Business had changed him. Money and time was becomming more important that job quality. Business certainly isnt easy, but a time comes when it's either right or its wrong, with little middle ground. Whhen professionals hit that crossroad, then take the wrong path, it changes them, and each time they elect that improper path, it makes the next crossroads easier and easier to take the wrong path, until the day comes that money and time means more than giving people who trust use with their work a professional job. I am an advocate of installer and buiness educataion no matter how they go about obtaining it, whether that be on the job, through a mentorship, union apprentiship, manufacturer or distributor training session, or certification. If certifications are the only way they can get proper training, they shoud go get it. Consumers need to step up and make a fuss when anything isnt exactly how they want it to be. We live in a low cost wallmart and home depot world, where as long as the price is right, they can live with almost anything. As an employer, I instill in my men and women the same installation and customer service values my Dad originally instilled in me, and I demand that on every job. I believe much of the talent has moved to the commercial spectrum too. Its where the money is at. Interesting you should say that (about commercial work getting the good men). When I left Dad, I went all commercial for about 10-11 years before we started opening up stores. Did alot of traveling and made alot of money. Now we bring those values and quality to the residential sector. In the end if something isnt done right, it doesnt matter why.

watertite would block it for the most part, providing the humidity is coming from the basement walls. Besides, why did it work for 43 years without watertite, and suddenly it's absolutely needed? None of the immediate neighbors have regraded their yard, nor did my mother. They dug a trench to replace the root-clogged sewer pipe, and it was backfilled flush with the surrounding soil. No changes were made to the downspouts, they still discharge about 3 feet away from the foundation walls. The interior concrete feels dry to the touch, and there is no white efflorescence anywhere. There is no sump pump, and of course the sewer pipe from the main stack to the street is all brand new PVC. All toilets, sinks, tub drain properly with a quick swirling action. There was never more than 2 inches of water in the basement, and it was addressed immediately. Everything higher than perhaps 3 feet up to the ceiling was not damaged and left untouched. A hygrometer http://www.amazon.ca/General-Tools-Instruments-MMD4E-Moisture/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=sr_1_1/179-1872848-1950766?ie=UTF8&qid=1445032321&sr=8-1&keywords=general+moisture+meter shows between 5 and 8% humidity in the wood. Could there be another possibility for the increased humidity levels? I am no expert, but it seems to me that enough moisture coming from the basement to cause a 20% increase in RH levels would be noticeable with the naked eye. We bought two hygrometers, one analog and one digital, and I brought a third one from my house so I know it's not just a faulty hygrometer. I am not discrediting you or saying that you are wrong, or saying that I know better than you, I am just trying to understand where the excessive moisture would be coming from. Thank you for taking your time to help me.

Lisa--Does no one in Florida open their windows and just let the fresh air in during the cooler times? Frankly, that is one of the reasons I was thinking LVT might be a good solution. Unless it's really hot and humid, we are pretty much let the fresh air in type of people. But, I also did some more thinking about the LVT that I was planning to install--Flooret--which features extremely large planks with enhanced bevels. I've now reinforced my earlier thought that I don't like the enhanced bevel (with each separate plank emphasized) look that seems to currently be popular in both engineered hardwood and LVT. I much prefer the look that one gets with real tongue and groove, on-site finished floors. A more regular, smoother surface constancy in look that is the way the old-fashioned 100-year-old oak and maple floors in our primary home present. Now that Christmas is over I may go back to the flooring stores to take a look at my options. For the main floor, IF I could find some timeless-looking porcelain tile that I liked a whole lot and that isn't a trendy design (sorry, but I think wood look porcelain is super trendy) and whose installation cost isn't a killer I could maybe maybe consider that. But, it's my understanding that hard tile is quite an expensive install. I like Marmoleum, but it doesn't have the look I want. And, last time around when we did some remodeling I investigated it and found it to be very pricey. And, I think I am going to give my realtor a call to get some feedback about what she hears from buyers in the area. Thanks all.