South FL here, we didn't consider LVP for many reasons. We went with porcelain tile throughout, carpet in kids bedrooms. We don't stand on our floors for hours at a time lol I'd never think of "hard on back, feet and legs" as a reason not to put in tile.

We are in hot, humid FL also. We decided on LVT but we haven't installed it yet. However my friends that have engineered real wood have had no problems with it as long as it's good quality engineered wood that has several layers in it. In ProSource - which is a wholesale place - they are all over FL in the major cities - they are also selling real engineered wood that is supposed to be waterproof like LVT. However it has to be glued down rather than floated. I have no idea how durable it is. It's around $6-8 a square foot.

Tile remains your best choice.

I've read that many people won't think about vinyl tiles because it is "plastic" and won't enhance the value of a home at resale whereas hardwood and ceramic will. And, that is something I am trying to factor into the equation. Just curious if itsourcasa and live-wire-oak included that thought in their reasons for recommending tile.

I'll do a bit of research on the engineered hardwood.

Polish the concrete.

Joe - if she finds tile too hard, I don't think polished concrete is the solution ;) Personally, I'd look into good quality engineered wood if porcelain (not ceramic) tile is off the agenda.

@julieste - I would go with engineered hardwood. My sister has had it in her Florida home for over 20 years with no problems. Whoever coined the term LVT is a marketing genius. It's really just plastic and there is nothing "Luxury" about it. IMO, it's updated 1950's linoleum. It also would add no value to the home. Go with a nice quality engineered wood for a nice look, and added home value.

I want to make certain all of you who are recommending engineered hardwood read my comment that this will be in a kitchen. And, also in two baths.

We've had real hardwood floors in the kitchen of our 100-year-old house for 25 years now and have been happy with them, so I am not afraid of hard wood in a kitchen. But, this house isn't in FL and doesn't have the humidity issues FL has. Plus, the floors in our current kitchen are authentic, traditional hardwood floors.

The kitchen shouldn't be a problem, but I wouldn't put hardwood in a bathroom with a shower/tub. I'd put tile/marble in those. I do have hardwood in my bath, but only in the sink area, I put marble in the wet area.

I'd put tile in the bathroom for sure. It's not like you're spending hours standing on bathroom floors. Kitchen floors are another matter entirely.

We have ceramic tile in all of our current bathrooms, so I am not afraid of it there. I just don't want an entire house of tile. In fact, I think it is the most appropriate option for a bathroom. With the LVT I have been considering, however, I would run it into the bathrooms.

I'd never use LVT - it's so cheap looking. Why pull up ceramic tile to replace it with plastic.

You can have your concrete slab tested for moisture. All slabs in FL produce moisture, but not all produce enough moisture to cause problems. I had hardwood in my Florida home, no problems. My neighbor down the block put in the same flooring, but had quite a bit of trouble due to the moisture in her concrete. She found out she had naturally occurring ground water under the slab from a higher water table near her home. So - get it tested....it will help you determine your options.

I find I don't have much problem with the humidity in Florida because of the AC. The only times my windows and doors are open is when the humidity and temps are down. I have much more difficulty with humidity at my Maine cottage because the doors and windows are always open and we don't have central air.

Several of my friends have engineered wood in FL in their kitchens with no problems. If you want it go for it.

If you don't want tile, then engineered wood floors will work. Just as with anything else, there is a wide range in the quality and price of engineered wood floors. Proper installation is key. Some brands/models are rated for higher humidity environments and I would look for that. The top wear layer (the real hardwood part) also comes in different thickness. Thicker wear layer will add to cost, but will mean that the floors can be refinished in the future. Go to a reputable flooring store that has a wide selection of materials.

Use tile in the bathrooms.

How about decorative concrete? you can get wood look, metallic, stained-- well just about anylook (even tile look where they lay down tape to have grout line look)

Hello no tile or concrete floor for the same reason. IMO Vinyl plank works in all those spaces and I happen to love mine with big dogs and a pool and mops up in a flash and looks good

We put vinyl planks in our home and are very happy with our decision. Look for a good quality, and get an installer who knows what they are doing. It’s important that the ‘repeat’ is scattered. Vinyl is quieter then laminate, tile or wood. It’s easy to clean and our 100 pound lab does not scratch it. Having 3 entrances to the pool area we get lots of drips, there has been no problems with the vinyl flooring. If you’re not selling within the next 2 years, don’t worry about resale. Buy the flooring that will make you and your family happy.

I am the OP, and as I said, this is for a just-purchased 2nd home in Florida where I had primarily been considering LVT.

A lot of you had me convinced that engineered wood might instead be the way to go.

In the basement of our primary home, we have the same top-of-the-line brand LVT I had been considering for our new Fla place. This basement product was installed 3 or 4 years ago.

I just took a really close look at the LVT that is in our basement and compared it to the sample of the company's (Flooret) current line. I'll admit I am amazed at how much more realistic the current product is from what they were selling 3 or 4 years ago. Today's updated and upgraded product truly does mimic authentic wood.

In the past I used to be one of those people who said that, even with a high end LVT, it was really easy to see that it was fake (especially since I have authentic site-laid and finished hardwood throughout the rest of our primary home). Now, I am amazed at how Flooret's newer line of LVT looks like the "real deal". So, a suggestion for those who may have pre-set conceptions about LVT: Before you completely dismiss the idea, go to a true, non-big box flooring store and take a really close look at today's best products. You might be quite surprised.

We send lots of Engineered wood floors to south Florida. Just make sure your installer seals the slab. I have a referral near Miami if you need one.

You will have air conditioning on most of the time in FL (unless you like being hot and sticky), so humidity shouldn't be an issue. We have a concrete slab and engineered bamboo floors and have no problem with humidity.

Donna

I live in SW Florida and in my condo with concrete floors I put engineered wood floors. They still look great. I know because while we sold the condo in 2016, the condo is again on the market (the new owner passed away) and friends have been in the condo since.

When we built (on a slab), we put in engineered hardwood floors and they are fabulous. As mentioned, be sure to pick one with a good wear layer (3mm minimum) and I've found one without a perfectly smooth look works best.

I have mine in the kitchen (and had it in my old condo kitchen) and throughout the house with the exception of my friend's entry and the bathrooms. Personally I'd never put wood or even LVP in a bathroom. I'd only choose tile for a bathroom.

Just make sure the engineered wood is glued down with the proper glue that also acts as a moisture barrier.

My beef with LVT is they are a plastic product, meaning they are made from petroleum.

Anybody saying LVT is cheap looking doesn't have a clue about LVT flooring. There is zero way to see the difference between a LVT floor and an engineered wood floor at eye level. heck even bending down it would be difficult.

It is a stigma with vinyl associated with the 12x12 stick down tiles. Ask any flooring installer and they will tell you the majority of their business on slab is now LVT.

Before you jump on the its junk bandwagon go to a REAL flooring store and check out Coretec or Paradigm and at $3SQFT the look is untouchable. Remember with new digital printing technology it makes products look very high end without the price.

LVT eliminates so many issues and wears like iron. Dont judge based on what you see at the box stores. Yes real wood will always be the best choice if it applies to your application. On slab has always been an issue and LVT eliminates most of the problems.

Petroleum? Another debate that gets thrown around is the smell? I have installed and have not had an odor relates issues. Your house is full of off gassing products so either you tear it down and start from scratch or stop trying to make an issue out of something that isnt an issue. Dont buy offshore products where ether is zero testing and you will be fine.

If LVP is your comfort zone and you LIKE it...then go for it. In my neck of the woods (insanely expensive Canadian West Coast city) $300K gets you a 550sf micro-apartment - Murphy bed NOT included! Which means LVP is a great option for the space (in my neighborhood).

It is your home. You like what you are seeing with Flooret (at least you are going with brand name!) then there is no one out there who can tell you not to.

You've already owned LVP so you know what to expect. There is no mystery here. I think your home has a value that works well with LVP. In my neighborhood a "tear down" single family home = $900K...and up. In fact I just saw a condemned home sell for $1.2M ($100K OVER asking price = insane!)

I'm with the others. I don't care how "good" people think LVP looks. It's still plastic, and has no value in a home. Although LVP is not used a lot where I am, as a realtor, customers always ask for hardwood. Many have walked away from LVP simply knowing it's not what they want, nor do they want to spend money to tear it up, and replace it with hardwood. A big reason for it's popularity is that it's inexpensive, and looks decent, but it would never be a choice I'd make.

I think the flooring industry does a good job of pushing out their latest products. How many people are putting in Linoleum, Cork or Bamboo these days? There were time periods on GardenWeb when all the flooring posts were about those products and how much better they were than hardwood or tile! The new darling is LVP. In a few years it will be some other floor type, but tile and hardwood will still be around.

@chispa - You've got that right. LVP will be out in a few years. It certainly won't be a sought after product in a home such as hardwood.

Engineered hardwood is perfect for a Florida. I had it in my condo and now in my current home. (Both concrete slab.) LVP is still vinyl. It is durable as hell and they have made it look as about as good as close to real as possible. That being said, it still isn’t real. I dislike the environmental issues associated with the product. (I know all products have their issues … that’s another conversation. )

I absolutely can tell the difference between LVP and engineered hardwood. Totally different feel underfoot and the look is easy to spot.

OP here again. Still thinking.

Someone up-thread mentioned not getting engineered hardwood unless it is at least 3mm (0.12") thick in the wear layer. I've done a bit more investigating and found this info about pricing.

• Basic engineered hardwood flooring that has a 1/12-inch-thick veneer (or less) and three core layers will cost between $3 and $5 per square foot.
• Mid-range engineered hardwoods that have a veneer thicker than 1/12, but less than 1/6-inch-thick and five core layers will cost between $5 and $10 a square foot.
• High-end engineered hardwood flooring with a 1/6-inch-thick veneer (or more) and seven core layers will cost between $8 and $13 per square foot.

1/12" is the same as 0.08 " or 2mm. 1/6" is the same as 0.16" or 4mm.

So, from this pricing info and that recommendation, I see that decent quality engineered hardwood (with the recommended wear layer is going to cost me $5 to $10 a sq. ft.

I know I can buy very realistic looking top-of-the-line LVP for $4 a sq. ft. If I could find some really nice engineered hardwood for $5 a sq ft, fine. But, in my situation and price point (a 300K to 350K townhouse in a nice location) I really can't see spending double per sq. ft. just to get the engineered hardwood.

Plus, I just had another reality check when I read 2 articles in the paper about rising seas, monster rains, high tides etc. The place we are buying is in flood zone X, but still one never knows about the possibility of a hurricane or other catastrophe. Perhaps the waterproof aspect of the LVP is something to take into account too rather than just looks.

As I said, still thinking....

OP I can't comment on the specifics when it comes to humidity etc but if you actually get flooded, the floor eill not survive, no matter whether it's engineered wood or vinyl. Waterproof vinyl can handle spills, but not floods affecting the underlay.

julieste , its an easy choice. Only one of those flooring options is going to add value to your home. Wood floors. Not LVP.

@julieste - It's good to think through a decision such as this which is not easily changed. I would never go with LVP, but that's me. In terms of the thickness recommended, get the thickest you can IN your budget. The thickness will determine how many times the product can be refinished.
Considering this is a second home for you, it will not get as much wear and tear as one in which you live full time, so there might not be a need to go with an engineered wood that can withstand

several refinishings. Keep that in mine when you choose. Not only will LVP NOT add any value to your home, but it may decrease the interested buyer pool. I would not want to purchase a home with that kind of plastic product.

I am looking for great looks, super ease of care, moderate cost, and good durability... And, we have a dog.

LVP. You've had LVP, you're comfortable w/ LVP and it meets all your requirements. LVP works for the bathrooms, too. It's a second home in Florida where you're probably more interested in being outside playing golf. Rather than housekeeping. Likely the same can be said for a majority of prospective home owners given the demographics in Florida (as well as the climate).

Current flooring is a mix of yukky, old carpet and old Pergo

In which case, replacing the flooring with just about anything is going to be an upgrade.

Again, it's a second home, recently purchased. Perhaps it will be your retirement home? Anyway, it doesn't sound like you have plans to sell anytime soon. Ten years down the road, anything you choose now is probably going to be looking a bit worn, a bit tired and won't be the floor du jour choice then. Even if it's wood, it will be the wrong color, the wrong width, the wrong species, the wrong cut, length, too rustic, too modern...

So get what you want now, what is easy to care for and easy to live with. IOW's, live in the Present.

BTW, IMO, LVP isn't going anywhere for the simple fact that it is so DIY friendly.

You can install the LVT but it will look cheap and sometimes there are no proper parts for stairs.. You cannot put wood, engineered wood or laminate in the bathroom. No installer will warranty the installation. This is why we all have ceramic tile in our homes, (though I am having a good laminate installed in my bedrooms to aid in the general sound in my home.

I am miles away from the beach, but there is sand grit in the wind and it gets in the house and will scratch wood floors over time. That's why wood plank ceramic tile is such a good solution.

In response to jmm1837’s comment, my contractor told me the same thing. LVT is meant to hold up against spills. It’s not going to save your floors if there’s a flood. He recommended against putting it in the baths and kitchens. There are varying opinions on that. We opted for tile in the kitchen and baths and the main entry We use to get in the house.

You may want to look into the new product - real wood - that’s treated to withstand water like LVT. It has to be glued down - but the price point isn’t bad - $7-$8 a foot. I think Armstrong makes it. I’m sure some of the other major mfg’s make it too.
Maybe it’s the next big thing, who knows.

My FL friends that have had hardwood paid starting $10 a square foot. If it were me I’d go with the highest quality LVT you can find or at the higher end of a mid range engineered hardwood in FL depending on what you want.

Don’t let FL humidity scare you off, if you really want hardwood, go for it. You can’t beat the smell of hardwood.

PS. No reputable FL flooring store will sell you hardwood that’s not engineered.

Let us know what you decide :)

I've watched this thread for a few days and came to the thinking..."buy what you like" and filter out the 'noise'

Best yet. Take a few weeks away from all of this and come back fresh. I'm quite certain things will be much clearer.

Ken Fisher

Uptown Floors

I have lived in homes with hardwood, carpet, old fashioned sheet vinyl, tile and LVT. Actually, my mom had the old linoleum that you had to buff and wax and polish but that stuff wore like iron. I went with LVT in my current home. Easy care, great option for pet owners, less expensive than some options, able to install yourself, easy on your joints and warmer than tile.

What about Marmoleum?

I think in your location, you can't ever go wrong with tile. It'll be a constant standard in FL no matter what form of wood or "wood" is in or out of popularity. I have an all-tile vacation home in another state, at the beach as well. Really humid too. We tiled the entire place, as almost every other home in this location does.

I feared the hardness of tile too, worrying it would be painful to my body, but I haven't found that to be the case. I don't think it would hurt you to have a couple of memory foam padded small rugs you could place down and pick up in the kitchen (assuming that's where you are most worried about.) I think if I could do my vac. home flooring over again, I'd take that opportunity to do something really pretty like the 12 x 24 oblong tiles laid in a herringbone pattern! Beautiful!

Understand the role of AC in Florida and how the AC will not function and leave you with a humidity level above what is desirable. Right now in Tampa, the temperature is 70 degrees and the humidity is 80%. The inside house temp is 71 degrees. The thermostat is set for 74 degrees and 55% humidity, so the AC is not running. The inside humidity is rising above 60%. Unless you have separate dehumidifiers, Spring and Fall into early winter are your enemies of low inside humidity. You have to balance temp and humidity so sometimes the humidity takes a hit and rises above 60% and/or the temps will go below the set temperature to 72 or 73. But it is hard to get the humidity to 50% without a separate dehumidifier. Anyway, in a nutshell, humidity is an issue to consider in central and south Florida. I have engineered wood throughout the house except in the kitchen and bathrooms where I have pressed porcelain tiles.

Lisa--Does no one in Florida open their windows and just let the fresh air in during the cooler times? Frankly, that is one of the reasons I was thinking LVT might be a good solution. Unless it's really hot and humid, we are pretty much let the fresh air in type of people.

But, I also did some more thinking about the LVT that I was planning to install--Flooret--which features extremely large planks with enhanced bevels. I've now reinforced my earlier thought that I don't like the enhanced bevel (with each separate plank emphasized) look that seems to currently be popular in both engineered hardwood and LVT. I much prefer the look that one gets with real tongue and groove, on-site finished floors. A more regular, smoother surface constancy in look that is the way the old-fashioned 100-year-old oak and maple floors in our primary home present.

Now that Christmas is over I may go back to the flooring stores to take a look at my options. For the main floor, IF I could find some timeless-looking porcelain tile that I liked a whole lot and that isn't a trendy design (sorry, but I think wood look porcelain is super trendy) and whose installation cost isn't a killer I could maybe maybe consider that. But, it's my understanding that hard tile is quite an expensive install.

I like Marmoleum, but it doesn't have the look I want. And, last time around when we did some remodeling I investigated it and found it to be very pricey.

And, I think I am going to give my realtor a call to get some feedback about what she hears from buyers in the area.

Thanks all.

" But, it's my understanding that hard tile is quite an expensive install."

True, but much less expensive than an inexpensive install, especially here in Florida.

" But, it's my understanding that hard tile is quite an expensive install."

True, but much less expensive than an inexpensive install, especially here in Florida.

Joseph--I'm confused by what you said. It seems to contradict itself.

julieste: yes, I also like to open the windows, but I was surprised at how few days I could actually do that. I'm from the northeast and Spring and Fall are the best times of the year there. My windows and sliders are wide open allowing the clean dry air to flow through the house. Sleeping with the windows open and a blanket sparks joy. Unfortunately, in central FL, there are very few days I can do this. I specifically ordered double hung windows that open from top and bottom, but alas it generally does not happen. Just checked, outside humidity is 68% and 75 degree. Inside, 61% humidity and 71 degrees.

Joseph means, you should see how expensive a REDO of an inexpensive (ie. wrong) tile floor can be. A proper install is cheaper than a redo of a bad job.