Can you post a picture of the entire wall straight on?

If you have a good tiler you can trust to do it, I would take tile to the ceiling, including on the bump out too. I think it will tend to fade away if treated like the rest of the walls, so no extra attention is given to it. Adding the open shelves just makes things even busier with four more bump outs. There doesn't really look to be enough room for very useful shelves, and decor on them will just be a grease and grime collector. I would eliminate that idea and focus on some more appealing window treatments.

what is this?

I'm guessing this is the other one?

why didn't they give you a vertical 'cabinet' to hide that entire thing?

I think property brothers or one of those shows did something w/the exact same issue you have. I believe they built out a cabinet. while it wasn't usable, it did look like part of the cabinet scheme.

otherwise, I wouldn't touch it. just tile the walls around it and leave it as is.

just do your shelves. (and please don't keep those mini blinds)

Here’s a picture from straight on.

Sorry new to posting so I’m replying to everyone.

We wanted to originally do an upper cabinet over it to disguise it but the top part goes out too far for the trim and cabinet to conceal it. Also thought about making it a shallow pantry, but then the space to the right of it would be just a windows width of counter before the refrigerator (refrigerator is to the right of that window)

The ‘what is this’ I believe it’s electrical or hvac that once again was out of our price range to move. They will be adding trim to the top part of the cabinet.

I like the continuation of the counter as a border/small backsplash in the picture that was posted.

Thanks for your suggestions so far! I wish I had posted on here earlier!

You could box it out so it’s not at a odd angle and cover it with faux Brick and make it a feature.

Brick veneer

I love the brick idea!!

The cabinetry can be manipulated to hide this completely. It means your uppers will appear deeper than standard uppers, but that is no big deal. Your cabinet A would be brought forward so that it‘s front sits flush with the soffits. Then you get a cabinet front, side panel, and trim pieces to make a faux deep upper (B) flush with the soffit above and cabinet A. You will need a new side panel (deeper) for A as well.

I like eam44’s idea. Wondering if you can post a picture of the full wall that includes what’s on the other side of the window.

Yes, manipulate the cabinetry is the only option to hide it. (that's what I was saying they did in one of those shows like Prop Brothers. they hid it in the cabinetry)

You can't tile it with brick because it will impede the ability to open the door

IMO the more you do to this the more it will look bad I would have rerouted the pipes and saved the money on the counters or somewhere else . Those shelves you are planning are useless in that size and will only work to call attention to the bump out.

You're never going to be happy with this. Find a way to afford to re-rout the pipes. Otherwise, you've thrown good money after bad.

I like mama-goose idea that could look nice.

Yeap, use Mamagoose's idea. It'll be one end panel, and another cabinet. I get about not moving things! We have an old house with cast iron, not moving it. If the move "goes bad" we could be in for an easy additional 10,000. Mama's idea gives you a perfect coffee station ;^)

Telling you to move it at this point, after the counters are in and the kitchen is completed for the most part, is ridiculous. If moving the obstruction wasn't in the budget before, paying for new counters and new dry wall repair certainly isn't going to be. I'd look into some of the "camouflage" ideas mentioned. I like mama-goose's idea and it would fit in nicely with what you have already. I'm thinking that chalkboard paint on the flat front would not look good, though.

Mamagoose's idea is nice--even it you don't get another cabinet for the other side, a simple end panel instead to block off the end of shallow shelves would be very appealing. (The storage of an additional cabinet means you can skip the open shelves which you don't REALLY need.)

Basically, hang a ~6" deep open cabinet on the bumpout matching the depth and height-from-counter of the wall cabs. Possibly wrap the cab material around the side of the bumpout, again, keeping it at wall cabinet height. Tile under it. Paint the bump above cab color.

Or...commission some art student (or a real artist!) to make you a metal wall sculpture for the space, with a kink to fit the bend in the wall. Then it will be obvious that you put that bumpout there intentionally to display a favorite piece of art.

Do you have a picture/ drawing of what you mean of the open cabinet Fori?

To answer why we didn’t spend the extra money to reroute- they would have needed to tear into the 2 bathrooms directly above which was way more than we could handle financially. As in, we would have to forego ANY Cabinets, countertops, lighting, food, water 😂😢. I love everyone’s input though!

We had the exact same problem and there was absolutely no way to move the pipes.

our solution was a combination of eam44’s and mother goose‘s ideas. Our cabinets were custom so the designer made the cabinets on either side deep enough to cover the bump out and had a dummy cabinet door to cover it.

the same could be accomplished with stock cabinets, just instal blocking to extend the boxes away from the wall and add trim pieces to hide.

ill try to post a picture of my problem area.

Here's another idea for you. Keep the existing cabinet next to the bump out and put in a pier of deeper cabinets that reach the counter next to it. We did this in our kitchen, but not to hide anything just to house the microwave and other appliances. We just ordered an 18" deep wall cabinet and an 18" deep appliance garage type cabinet. This will allow you to still use shallow shelves behind the closed doors.

I agree that a bumped out cabinet would be best. the inside will be shallow, but it might turn out deep enough to put spices and small stuff. or put hooks inside and turn it into a utensil caddy.

Like the bump out cabinet but if another cabinet is not in your budget, then ...

Between the rectangle "post" with sloped top and the window there is an angled wall? Ignore that angled wall. It has an outlet so that means there is wiring behind it. Nope to adding anything to it.

Also, you don't want to add brick or anything else to the space that would only serve to emphasize it ... but you could utilize the forward flat part of it.

The odd flat front "pillar" over the pipe will have framing on each side to which you can add a nail or screw without damaging the plumbing pipe. Measure from the bottom of that top slope/angle to the bottom of the overhead cabinet. That is the size -- length/width -- finished wood board you want, with the board's back angled top to make the top of the board fit snugly against that top angle of the "pillar". To that finished board, you can attach something useful (that will not gouge you in the eye).

The space might not be deep enough to have a wide enough shelf on which you could set mugs or cream/sugar items on it (except above head bump height) but you could probably add other useful features that you could add to your board BEFORE hanging your board.

Mail pockets:

https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Home-Basics-3-Shelf-6-in-x-20-in-Bamboo-Letter-Rack-LR01068/207051663?mtc=Shopping-BA-F_HDH-G-D59-59_35_WALL_DECOR-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-Wall_Shelf&cm_mmc=Shopping-BA-F_HDH-G-D59-59_35_WALL_DECOR-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-Wall_Shelf-71700000055588482-58700005223539322-92700046386733227&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwqKtqbu06QIVA4TICh3bOgutEAQYByABEgIGt_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

and/or cork board or chalk board:

https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/rosalind-wheeler-domaine-decorative-wood-shutter-home-wall-mail-organizer-with-chalkboard-w001317943.html

and/or shallow spice & S&P shelf/shelves:

https://www.amazon.com/Rev-Shelf-4ASR-15-Cabinet-Adjustable/dp/B00097BVCA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=Rev-A-Shelf+4ASR&qid=1551935362&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull&linkCode=sl1&tag=woodaccess-20&linkId=33ac764c309f2c8f0b6370db37ddf1cc&language=en_US

Hanging hooks for mugs or trivet(s):

https://www.target.com/p/essick-hook-rack-oil-rubbed-bronze-threshold-8482/-/A-11345275?ref=tgt_adv_XS000000&AFID=google_pla_df&fndsrc=tgtao&CPNG=PLA_Home%2BImprovement%2BShopping&adgroup=SC_Home%2BImprovement&LID=700000001170770pgs&network=g&device=c&location=9011010&ds_rl=1246978&ds_rl=1248099&ds_rl=1247068&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvaKQjL206QIVGLbICh3U5g8zEAQYASABEgISbfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.garrettwade.com/hand-forged-iron-wall-hooks.html?SCID=W4011000&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw6jfsb206QIVBniGCh3kmwp3EAQYBSABEgLMOfD_BwE

Kitchen / dining / garden related art: With the right hangers, light weight kitchen art might be added to the board or the wall below the board on the wall beside the overhead cabinets:

https://www.google.com/search?source=univ&tbm=isch&q=kitchen+art&client=firefox-b-1-d&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjVo8vrvbTpAhWcgnIEHeeBAKgQ7Al6BAgCEE0&biw=1324&bih=648

Just don't put anything on your board that will end up being in your way. Prepare your board with the features you want BEFORE you hang it. Use screws instead of nails to hang your board and you can change out your board as you decide what proves most useful and what you find to be useless.

This is a pic of our “camouflage” cabinet. My husband and I are still arguing about whether or not to pull pulls on the fake door.

These upper cabinetry modifications are very clever solutions. I am amazed at the great ideas here.

Pennfire: please add the pulls. That looks unfinished to me.

Pennfire: please add the pulls. That looks unfinished to me.

Except that the trim on the beam would make it look like someone messed up and prevented those 'doors' from being able to be opened. If you truly wanted to make it seem like they are proper doors, then that trim needs to be fixed somehow.

Good catch Greg.