I've been grappling with how to hide cooktop vent liner.
My plan was to have some high cabinets for long term storage across the top of the whole counter. The cabinets would be hard to reach for people shorter than myself. I've been thinking of all the ways to vent and there is slight possibility to do downdraft and just deal with the big vent pipe protruding from the ceiling by covering it will a walnut panel. However, I am concerned with downdraft that the grandness of that tall back wall being all stone will look pretty stark with the tall ceiling at 9'2".
The other option I photoshopped below is to mount a 4 foot high slab with just enough space off the wall to slip a upward facing LED tape light behind it for upward lighting and just build a box of walnut or stone to hide the vent liner.
OR, I could also just buy a regular old stainless range hood. There is NO way around a soffit above the cooktop if there is going to be a vent liner there, an in-ceiling vent will not work as I have no space for it.
What would you do?
Comments (18)
PROBeverlyFLADeziner
12 months agoThose are all interesting solutions.
Here are a few other unique hood solutions that might inform your decision.
Paul F. thanked BeverlyFLADezinerRelated Discussions
Pond Solutions with EPDM Liners
Comments (9)Glad I can help, but I don't want to overstep my experience, so I will answer the questions where I have some hands on knowledge. Bottom drains - they will sweep any sand in the immediate vicinity, but have no effect on things a foot or two away as the velocity is negligible. The idea is to get solids to fall to the lowest point and get swept away. If the solids sit in rock crevices two feet away, they stay there. This is the source of the "rock bottm vs smooth bottom" discussion. River rounds - if you have them available, great. If you have to buy them by the bag, you are going to spend a lot to cover a 9000 gal pond. You understand the tradeoffs here- smooth doesn't stack well, but othewise is great. I doubt you can get anything over 30% with rounded stones. There are actually engineering formulae for determining the max stack angle for differnt shapes and density of material, but I don't think pond builders worry about them. Any slope that goes to the edge can be used by raccoons and herons. I find that having a deep pond where the fish can get away from predators helps a lot. I haven't used overhanging rocks. Sand is graded by size, source, and shape. You want a "sharp" builders sand for it's ability to pack. Playbox sand is usually too fine and rounded. Not the most critical issue however. Overhanging deck - a great Japanese design style that works the wonderful contrasts between man made/natural; linear/irregular; water/land; static/changing and many others. See my posts for one example. I use Ipe because it weathers to a beautiful grey, doesn't need any maintenance or finish, and doesn't contain any toxic metals to drip into the water. It has natural toxins of course which make it durable, but I don't let too much in the water. I have dropped a few pieces in by accident (it sinks like a stone) and haven't noticed any effect. I hope the rising water table and tree limbs don't damage the liner. Swimming pool installers (gunite and liner) often use a reverse drain valve meant to allow water in if the pressure is higher than the pool. The big tree limbs probably won't penetrate a rock lined pool but what about the roots? could be an issue digging and in the future. Good luck....See MoreHood Liner Suggestions
Comments (7)Perhaps another way of asking the same question is this... we have a 6 inch round duct doing to the outsid eof my house. Duct run is about 10 feet with 1 90 degree elbow in it. Reducting ( not really a word i know ) the house would be quite expensive and not sure how it could be done given the way the house was built so in essence we are stuck with the 6 inch duct. My home CEO is insisting upon the 5 burner gas cooktop ( seems she wants the Wolf CS36 whose highest BTU burner is 15K BTUs ). I had originally thought we'd go with a nice decorative hood and use a liner/insert vent. Still an option but the wall is already tight with respect to cabinet space ( I talked her out of removing the wall because I did not want to lose cabinet space and now it seems the hood may be taking away much of the cabinet space! ) Option 1: Use an under cabinet vent hood.. at 36 inches it should meet code and will preserve a lot more cabinet space albeit much less attractive. Any suggestions/thoughts here? Option 2.. stay with the hood/liner idea. Originally I thought we could use a 36 inch hood but that would provide us with only a 34 inch wide insert/vent. Not sure this would meet code or even work that well given the cooktop is wider ( though burner ot buorner is under 36 inches ). Next up would be 42 inch hoods and 40 inch liners/inserts. Still have the 6 inch duct issue ( realize noise will increase and flow rate will decrease with the smaller duct but I can live with that ). We have approximately 8 feet of cabinets on this wall.. hood would be centered so that won't leave much room on either side. Any suggestions? This is a compromise all the way around where I want noise minimized as much as possible. Thx...See MoreVentilation Hood Advice: Vent-A-Hood or Miele Insert Liner
Comments (26)I am the resident expert only because real HVAC systems engineers don't frequent this forum, as far as I know. Noise introduced into the kitchen will be significantly reduced if an external blower with silencer can be fitted. A lot of the high frequency blade tip turbulence caused noise will be removed. This is also true of an in-line (duct mounted) blower. The issue of the neighbor is difficult to assess. What is the configuration of his or her windows relative to your potential external blower (1500 CFM I assume you meant). Your own window sound transmission is also an unknown. Generally, the external noise could be abated by (a) using a silencer on each side of a duct mounted in-line blower, or (b), using a deliberately under-driven* "up-blast" commercial blower (mounted as a side blast). (I think opaone is using an under-driven blower for his new system.) It is also possible to use a chase to move the blower up to roof level. I have a 1500 CFM nominal Wolf (Broan) blower on my roof. Its sound level is detectable but not obtrusive from the ground, but it might be if in a wall location where the sound is "trapped" between two houses. Possibly a more expensive but similar in design Abbaka downslope unit would be marginally quieter. ------ * commercial blowers of this type can use a pulley system between motor and fan that allows for different ratios. By choosing a ratio that operates the fan blades below their rated speed when the motor is receiving maximum voltage, significant turbulence noise can be avoided. The physical cost is a larger unit than would otherwise be required for the desired flow rate. Residential blower fans are directly coupled to their motors....See MoreIn the weeds: Vent hood, make-up air, and venting outside - help!
Comments (19)building2017 wrote: ... - What are the silencers I have read about and how do they work/would they work here? These are like giant truck mufflers, except designed for various diameter ducts. They have low pressure loss (forget the value but it is a lot less than baffles). Fantech is the source. - Any benefit re:sound to using two smaller liners instead of one big one and only using one at a time when using only one side of stove? Or is this magnifying the cost for no good reason other than sound? (Because I'm assuming I'd then have two runs up and out and two things on the roof because they wouldn't combine to avoid a turn and to ensure proper function? If only one side were run at a time, then MUA costs could be lower, but where code requires MUA, I am willing to bet a donut that the AHJ will demand an MUA system that can handle both at once. In theory, the sound reduction will be only 3 dB less. Also, when using the central burners, you will still need both systems for capture and containment. Well, I guess three things on the roof then with the MUA. While commercial systems mostly use roof MUA entry, and I use roof MUA entry, the options for residences are wide open and may include side of house entry, or entry into a basement that has an air path access to the kitchen....See More
Paul F.
12 months agoThanks for the feedback. Otter, I always check translucency of a slab that has crystals for just such a thing in the back of my mind. I'm trying not to end up too Vegas-y tho, haha! Might be cool to highlight some crystal areas and still have the light appear to spill out the top. Getting away with ONE slab instead of 2 would be nice.
Jennifer, that soffit in the 3rd pic would probably be quite a bit taller than that since I need a reducer vent piece as well as the liner... that's why I came up with the line of high upper cabinets so I wouldn't see the space wasting closed soffit going all the way across.
Paul F.
12 months ago@Jennifer K So, do two long term storage cabinets on either side detract or decrease visual prominence?
Paul F.
12 months agolast modified: 12 months ago@crispa I found that out about the coffee maker yesterday looking for dazzling appliances and stopped in at the Miele experience, it's not impossible to maintain but not easy for someone shorter than me. I just threw that in there to keep the sweep of the door from overhanging the sink.
@Jennifer K That's what I thought but questions of balance where brought up and whether the extra high upper storage was a problem. The one thing that I think helps the balance is that I found that the 30" Miele steam oven and microwave are the same size as the 24" ones so why not just get the 24"? I think that will help balance the 24" left and right side.... along with the 24" uppers.
However, I think the design below is something I should consider also since the other side of the room directly across has light boxes... the wall there is about 3 feet deep so actual windows would have looked odd so I did the next best thing and put back-lit frosted glass that adjusts color temp throughout the day to match light coming through the front door frosted glass. In the kitchen I could use the same frosted glass or just let light reflect off the wall from behind the slab in kitchen to give a sensation of outdoor light there too. What do you think?
Paul F.
12 months agolast modified: 12 months agoOf course I could save a bucket load of money on stone fabrication and do a giant back-lit frosted glass panel. Lit from below it would actually do an ombre to the top like that... and of course color adjustable.
Paul F.
12 months agolast modified: 12 months agoYou're not suggesting this looks like a winking teddy bear are you? Cat, maybe?
Well, then.
wdccruise
12 months agoI don't understand this statement: "I've been thinking of all the ways to vent and there is slight possibility to do downdraft and just deal with the big vent pipe protruding from the ceiling."
If there were a downdraft hood, why would there be a "big vent pipe protruding from the ceiling"? A downdraft hood would rise from behind the cooktop.
Paul F. thanked wdccruisePaul F.
12 months agolast modified: 12 months agowdccruise
12 months agoI like the slab* that extends to the ceiling or with the cabinets arrayed above (as shown in the third photo) with a wall-mounted hood such as this. I wouldn't put anything else in the opening such as those translucent panels. You'd have to be careful with recessed lights above the slab as they could create shadows beneath the hood if they didn't have narrow beams.
*that's suitable material for use behind a cooktopPaul F. thanked wdccruisePaul F.
7 months agolast modified: 7 months agoWhat do you think of this synthetic dark wood for my kitchen? It's dark like in Rabbitt designs render he did for me.
Jennifer K