DeRock, I checked and the components are all rated for low flow applications and my irrigation line definitely falls within the operating ranges. The parts come together as part of a Toro drip irrigation kit. The components were assembled in the order I describe in my original post, which was the order depicted by the kit instructions (valve->filter->30PSI pressure regulator->drip hose) You did give me an idea to measure the pressure after the entire assembly though to ensure the regulator is doing its job (though it's not likely since both zones are hammering). I'm glad I installed pvc unions so I could disconnect for troubleshooting purposes. I'll keep you in the loop. This post was edited by lhpineapple on Thu, Apr 17, 14 at 9:48

- I'm not familiar with a 'gate valve'? a gate valve is a screw valve that raises or lowers a flat gate inside the valve against a seat,...... outside taps that you turn a wheel on top of the faucet are gate valves, they are cheaper than ball valves, less reliable, less durable, but cheaper. - By 'clean out fitting' do you just mean a simple fitting I can disconnect? A clean out fitting is a section of pipe, that joins two sections of pipe together, that has a threaded fitting in the side, usually at 90 degress to the fitting, with a curve. Under your sink for example, you have a trap, usually, at the bottom of the trap, there is a threaded cap that allows you to undo it and clean out hair clogs. That is a clean out fitting. Under the toilet, should be another, that allows you to open the fitting and run a snake through the pipe to clean out clogs. For an example, http://www.doityourself.com/icat/dwvflangcleanoutgard Wrapping the threaded plug of the clean out fitting with teflon tape makes it water tight with out having to torque the cap in place. In the fall, unscrewing this cap, and opening a drain at the bottom, ( cheapest is just another PVC or CPV clean out fitting) drains the system in the fall, allowing air in and allowing the water to fall out. White CPV is cheaper than black PVC, but more fragile, however, more UV resistant. Serious farmers invest in steel or aluminum pipe, but for us, CPV is fine, after all, we are not planning on running a tractor over it, or irrigating 160 acres every two days. - The manifold is interesting. I can see that really being handy at the garden end to connect different hoses to different rows. I would just use a 'T' type connection for setting that up, I assume? Yup, you would just use a T fitting, ( best is several T fittings daisy chained together) with an end cap adapter that allows the fitting of a three quarters of an inch threaded pipe. This lets you buy a cheap tap to allow you to connect to a half inch garden hose and screw it into the fitting with teflon tape wrapped on the threads. - Is an RV pump submersible or above ground? RV pumps are simple in line diaphram 12v pressure pumps. They are designed to pressurise the water from poly tanks in an RV, Boat, etc and move it up to a faucet. They dont have a lot of lift, dont create a huge amount of pressure, but are relatively cheap and can run off a solar array. They do suck a lot of 12v power however, so a 30W panel, coupled to a 120 20AH battery will only let you run the pump for about 2 hours. There are some in tank models, but they are more expensive. I use one because the former tenants rigged one to run water from the cistern for the trailer, before they froze the pipes and had them burst. It was either use it to water the garden, or add it to the junk pile,.... ( 5 ten ton truck loads of junk, 12 2000lb trailer loads and several more to go, which is why we managed to buy the 40 acres cheap). -I've seen a drip system layed out with individual drippers, but that doesn't seem practical for a large vegetable garden. Do the emitter hoses you're talking about have holes in them so it could be layed out along a row of beets say? Emitter hoses are quarter inch hoses that are tapped into a half inch or three quarters of an inch feeder line. One can attach spray nozzels, mister nozzles, drip nozzels, etc, at the end of the emitter hose for more suitable to the plant water delivery. If for example, you have a row of beets, what you would do is run the feeder hose down the middle of the beets, and punch in holes where the beets are on both sides of the hose. If the beets are say two rows, 6 inches away from each other, you would punch in the holes, snap in a fitting, ( I prefer to use the valve fittings rather than simple junction fittings, a short length of hose, then a valve fitting, then another length of hose, I am Scottish after all and it is a low pressure system), add 5 inches of quarter inch emitter hose and pin it down near the bulb of the beet. If on the other hand, you have planted your beets French intensive style, then unfortunately, you are going to need pressure and spray emitters to cover the bed. - If so, any idea of a supplier? I've never come across anything like that locally. I contemplated drilling holes in a bunch of garden hose as a winter project, but that would be rather tedious! LOL. Most Home Depots, Lowes, etc carry the feeder hose, emitters, etc in the underground sprinkler section. Most agricultural irrigation supply houses will also carry the stuff for cheaper if you buy in bulk. You can probably also find suppliers on the web, with a Google search for drip irrigation, even though I have not looked. The trick is to go modular and realistic. If the goal is a subsistance garden to feed your family fresh heathy foods, build the manifold and this year, run flood irrigation off half inch garden hoses on the existing crops. In the fall, fence the garden and over the winter, build some formal raised beds. A cheap source of wood is used pallets, line them with tarpaper and use a good wood stain inside and out. I prefer to buy bulk rough sawn 2 x 6 s from the mill, In the early spring, install, fill and plant the raised beds, ( all equal length and width), set up proper drip irrigation with individual feeder tubes (or spray nozzels and a pressure system if French intensive ), flood irrigate the rest and just keep adding to the system until it is done. For crop rotation, as you rotate crops, you also rotate the custom drip system bed by bed. If the goal is a truck or market garden, in which you sell the crop, then spend the money for a proper irrigation system, it is deductable against farm income, a capitol investment which is deprecable, exempt from many taxes, (Provincial, Federal, etc) when bought as such, and in many cases, also low interest financiable through grants and subsidies.

sharpgirl, I can only share my experience w/ BB. For several years I put up houses built (I thought) to BB specs. No takers. And because I had seen BB on my farm I knew they were around, but I didn't know where they were nesting. Until one day I noticed that the 'fake' hollow owl I had attached to the roof peak of my small barn, had BB's coming and going around it. BB's had pecked a hole in the chest of owl and apparently built a nest inside. This is now the 2nd year that they're nesting there. Their nest is about 15-18 ft. off ground, 100 ft. from a feeder but hidden by a bldg., hole faces South, slightly southeast. BB's perch on barn roof before they enter the hole. Both male and female feed the babies. Area of nest is surrounded by either mowed pasture or lawn. No close trees for 50-60 ft. I overflow a large watering trough (for horse) several times a day and the BB's show up to bathe and frolic in the water, if it's warm outside. So my bluebirds outsmarted me and made their own personalized nest and they must like it cause they've returned this year. Good Luck with attracting your own BB's. PS/I'm in zone 9B Central Fl.

I think Ingrid's idea of tubing with no emitters allowing more of a flooding effect, that she turns on periodically, might suit roses well. A moat around each rose that would hold the "flooding" water would be ideal. I think the emitter concept makes for less weeds throughout a bed in its defense. I do know I can grow a greater number of plants with an emitter system than I could hand watering. My Dramm water wands and watering cans were very reliable, but too much work to continue "forever". My Hunter control box works well as do the valve boxes, but the emitters can be erratic here too and need adjusting or replacing. It is very frustrating at times. The spray emitters could be nicely visible when on allowing more security that it is actually working.