Help! Transparent Spots on Plant

4 years ago

Hello.

Yesterday I noticed that a leaf on my croton had somewhat transparent spots And today it is much worse! and perhaps on other leaves as well?

Is it a fungus?

Should I cut the affected leaves off?

Is there a cure?

Thank you in advance for you help and advice!

Background info:

It is a year or two old. I foolishly took it upstairs this winter, as well as my umbrella tree and there was enormous leaf drop (the latter died). I put it back where it used to be several weeks ago and it has been doing much better, lots of new leaves popping out. I typically water from the bottom and only about every 7-10 days (I think.) I usually check the pot weight before doing so. It sits by an open, southern facing window.

The leaf yesterday

The leaf today! 😱

Another leaf that appears to be starting to have same issue in center of the leaf.

Another leaf that is showing dried edging. Same problem? Or inconsistent watering?

Featured Answer

tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)

4 years ago

Is there a drain hole in the pot?

Is it a fungus? No

Should I cut the affected leaves off? No

Is there a cure? There is nothing to be done which will cure the currently affected leaves, but it's a reaction to stress the plant is not genetically programmed to tolerate; so, by eliminating the culturally offensive condition, you can prevent it from occurring in other leaves which are not already similarly compromised.
I ....... took it upstairs this winter, as
well as my umbrella tree and there was enormous leaf drop (the latter
died). ...... and what do you attribute the loss to? Lack of water? Cold? Light level too low? I typically
water from the bottom and only about every 7-10 days (I think.) Watering from the bottom is not the best way to water. Your plant would prefer that you water evenly from the top, covering the entire surface of the soil. The entire soil mass should be saturated and at least 15-25% of the volume of water applied should exit the pot via the drain hole. The effluent that collects in the saucer should have no pathway by which it can make its way back into the soil. Salts are flushed from the soil when we water to eliminate them, so if they are able to find their way back into the soil, it's counterproductive. If the plant is easy enough to manage, water over the sink and wait until it stops draining before you return it to the collection saucer. If you're worried watering this way will cause the soil to remain wet/soggy for a prolonged period, limiting root function or worse - wrecking root health, you might consider a better soil of practicing some passive measures that will limit how much excess water a planting can hold. There is no such thing as a healthy plant if the toot system is not healthy - it's a prerequisite. If the pot is too large to handle easily, set the pot on top of blocks in the collection saucer.

If the plant hasn't wilted because it was too dry, just by observing symptoms in the images, I'd say you're over-watering and/or there is a high level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, but let's see what you have to say before I offer specific suggestions.

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Comments (6)

Starry Sky
Original Author
4 years ago
Thank you for replying.

The pot has several drainage holes.

For the winter, I think the leaf drop might be to a draft or temperature change. I placed the plants under a southern facing Velux window so they would receive good light (I live in a very cloudy country) but my room is in the attic and the temperature changes are stronger there.

The reason for watering from the bottom is because the humidity is very high here the majority of the year (about 80% humidity, I believe) and the damp upper soil sometimes invites problems such as bugs. I have no screens so everything flies in. This is particularly a problem in the cooler months. In the warmer months, I water from the top and let the water drain out.

I usually flush the my plants soil about once a month in the tub or sink but I haven't done it to this one since I brought it down a few weeks ago.

All the houseplants are watered with bottled tap water that has sat out for a few days.

The roots all look very healthy.
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last pic .... is that a duplicate to the left?? ... is it infested also ... if not ... then just get rid of the duplicate .. and move on with your baby life ... check all your plants .. isolate those with problems ... if it were summer... i would suggest you put them outside for summer ... in full bright shade ... and treat them with a systemic remedy ... at least a month prior to bringing them back in the house for next winter .... though scale can be controlled mechanically ... by hand i mean ... they are one thing i go all out war on ... as im not real interested in playing with them repeatedly over the next 6 months to year ... outdoors is where i prefer to use chemicals ... good luck with the babe ... ken
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we need pix.. and if outdoors.. it would help to know where you are.. big city name .... is it just one leaf??? use the photo icon below the box you type in... to put a pic in a reply ... ken
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
4 years ago
For the winter, I think the leaf drop might be to a draft or temperature change. OK. The main causes of leaf loss are over-watering, under-watering, a change in light levels, usually from brighter to dimmer, but leaves can be shed if the change from dimmer to brighter is significant enough, cold drafts, root congestion (a big one), and nutritional issues. I placed the plants under a southern facing Velux window so they would receive good light (I live in a very cloudy country) but my room is in the attic and the temperature changes are stronger there.

The reason for watering from the bottom is because the humidity is very high here the majority of the year (about 80% humidity, I believe) and the damp upper soil sometimes invites problems such as bugs. If gnats or other bugs that reside in the soil for a part of the metamorphic cycle are an issue, it's much to change your soil to another with superior drainage/aeration, otherwise, you're swapping one limitation for another when both can be avoided entirely. At a minimum, the soil should be flushed at least every 3rd or 4th time you water. All the houseplants are watered with bottled tap water that has sat out for a few days.

The roots all look very healthy. There is no point in allowing water to sit in an open container for any length of time. The main offenders to be found in tapwater are CMgO3 (magnesium carbonate), CaCO3 (calcium carbonate), fluoride, chlorine compounds. Some chlorine might gas off if the water is chlorinated with elemental chlorine, but most systems use chloramine or chloramide treatment that does not gas off appreciable. NONE of the fluoride or carbonates gas off - all are entirely left behind in the container as water evaporates; so essentially, the concentration of these chemicals increases linearly with the amount of evaporation that occurs.

Al
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
4 years ago
could you just tell us where you are ... you are making it all so mysterious.. i just have to know.. lol .. big city name and country ...

it seems to have started when you took it upstairs ... so.. you shocked/stressed it.. leading to leaf damage ... the more minor the damage.. the longer it takes to show ... the problem being... by the time you see it ... the problem might be gone.. and you are then late in trying to fix it.. if any problem is left to fix .... you already brought it back down ...

damaged leaves can still process light into energy ... so never cut them off .. until the stress is gone.. which would be indicated by young healthy growth ... and once that gets going.. you can remove the ugly old leaves as the plant is replacing them with new ... the plant will drop a leaf.. once it is useless ... or make it so apparent that you know its time to cut it off ...

imo ... its stressed.. and probably not hungry ... i would not fert until i felt that it is over its stresses ... though a little of this or that.. isnt going to hurt ....

try not to love it to death ... just leave it alone.. and water it properly ...

ken
Starry Sky thanked ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
4 years ago
"i would not fert until i felt that it is over its stresses ...." What if the source of stress is a lack of nutrients? A deficiency of any of the nutrients mobile in the plant can cause leaf shedding.

Al
Starry Sky thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
Starry Sky
Original Author
4 years ago
Al:

I flushed the soil, so hopefully that helps. I will hold off on changing the soil for now.

Ken:

LOL, sorry, I was not trying to be mysterious. Brussels, Belgium for location. My apartment is on the top floor of an older house and my bedroom is the attic. The heating is below by the windows so I moved it up so it could have light but not the stress from the radiators. But it is not well-insulated and heated so it stressed it too much, I think. Perhaps this winter, I will just ease it away from light downstairs so it adapts better and not take it upstairs.

I think you are correct that the stress from being moved up was too much. There are several new leaves so I think it is much happier now. I have never tried to put plants upstairs before, so now I know :)

Thank you so much!

Help! Transparent Spots on Plant

tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)

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Starry Sky
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Help! Transparent Spots on Plant

tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)

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