Using Red Guard for crack prevention in the backyard tile project
Shaun Trivedi
4 years ago
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PROPatricia Colwell Consulting
4 years agoShaun Trivedi
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Oh NO! Why me? New bathroom wall 'settled' (?) and tile cracked!
Comments (23)I thought you were in MA, not ME. The good news is that if it's the PT that shrank, it's done. The bad news is that if the soil is undergoing expansions and contraction cycles...it's unstable. I don't have a vast amount of experience working in clay, but I had a big bucks job in clay years ago. We actually set up something similar to a drip irrigation system around the perimeter of the foundation. The purpose was that the drip irrigation would keep the clay continually moist so it wouldn't undergo movement cycles as the clay dried and rewet. It'd essentially stay permanently wet and not move. Any excess moisture was removed by foundation perimeter and footing drains. Now, you wrote that the crawl space is sealed up... 1) For clarification, I'm assuming that there is a concrete foundation around the perimeter of this addition? Or is it built on piers? 2) If it's a poured foundation, was a rat slab (thin 2" poured slab) or a full slab poured in the crawl space? Or is the bottom of the subfloor open to soil on the ground? 3) With the clay, did your dad have any engineering analysis done with regards to soil movement or stabilization? As to "what now"...was this a Kerdi shower? Or did it have a topical membrane (HydroBan, RedGard, etc)? I remember your shower but forget the specifics of how it was built. If Kerdi, the cracks are sort of inconsequential when it comes to water penetrating into the walls. The cracks are more cosmetic unless they really open up. I'd get in touch with your installer regarding the details of the walls. Depending on how the walls were detailed/waterproofed might give you a warm fuzzy regarding letting things sit as they are while you see if movement has stabilized versus taking action (caulk the crack, etc) if water penetration may be a concern. I'd mark the ends of the cracks with blue tape and keep an eye to see if the cracks extend or if the movement has stopped or stabilized....See MoreManaging Wooded Backyard
Comments (55)romeisburning 16 years ago (I was 57 then) I purchased a home in a retirement community - I KNOW I KNOW but it is lovely. The property had some crepe myrtle, some overgrown evergreen shrubs. I got rid of those overgrowns. Hard work but rewarding. Patience can be your best friend. I really do love the idea of a boardwalk path. You just blow or sweep the leaves off onto your plants and it is free food for them. I saw a picture not too long go of Annabelle hydrangea in a woodland area - beautiful -- I would stick with your landscaping friend. On this property, there was a beautiful rhododendron just outside my sunroom - I had trees removed and you know what happened to that rhodo? big mistake. Now I have two rhodos under the 8 long needled pines and they are very happy there. Deer - oh yes they usually leave rhodos alone but they ate the BUDS. Grass in the pine barons is possible.. Just some advice. I paid lawn service to help me with my grass - feeding the grass just made happier weeds in the grass. So much for that. I told myself I can learn how to combat my grass problems - and here goes, Had great success with fertilizer coated grass seeds - then covered the seeds with a little topping of compost with manure on the seeds - and watered between rains -.came up in one week and still going strong.. Also compost all your new plantings you will be amazed at the results. I would forgo any hosta because the deer love them. But check with your friend he/she would know. Oh yes on youtube ther is a great deer inhibiter - fishing line on small posts surrounding your garden attached to empty cat food cans on top of a bucket. When the deer trip the line the can fall off the bucket with a racket and scare the deer off. Check that one out - I am trying it - saves money for more plants and is harmless to deer. Good luck. When I learn how to upload a picture I will upload one....See MorePreventing Sunscald and Frost Crack???
Comments (10)JS, the height of rootball may have no bearing on proper planting height. Depending on that parameter is the ticket to failure, albeit, a slow-motion failure, as the too-deep tree gradually starts to have crown rot issues. Please do take the time-what, maybe another five minutes,-to carefully peel back the soil on the top of the rootball, taking care, of course, to not nick up the trunk. Then, see where the true root flare is and plant such that that feature is just slightly above finish grade. You see, small tractors pull cultivating equipment down the rows in a tree nursery for weed control, in the process often heaping much soil on top of what had been a pretty good planting depth. Most nursery guys pay no attention to this so it's on you. And don't use the swollen graft area as a guide-the root flare will be further down. Now please believe me-why would I lie-we have had B&B trees come in where as much as 18 inches of soil had to be removed off the top of the root ball to find this root flare. Bad, bad practice, but for whatever reason, the industry is stubborn and does not want to improve in this area. Meanwhile, the ANZI nursery standards have been adjusted to point out this issue. Go by that, not some guy who doesn't give a damn. And if you've pre-dug the holes, they may easily be too deep already. Usually are. +Om...See MoreHairline crack on shower wall (vertical)
Comments (65)Ok, In Tn., In order to be a licensed contractor, we have to be bonded. This is like an insurance policy for just such an occasion. If I have a client that I mess up, and am not willing to repair to industry standards, the homeowner can go downtown to the codes dept and report. Once codes looks at it and the contractor still won't make it right, you can "call on his bond" they will give you the amount to fix it with someone else, and he can't pull permits until he pays the bond back. Since this is a tile/tub replacement, the contractor probably does not have a permit on it. That's ok, since it's torn out anyway, they will be able to see the water pipes. So don't let that stop you. Please keep us updated! Please remember folks, make sure that your contractor is licensed, bonded and insured. Mistakes happen, we are all only human. What's makes a good contractor is how they handle it when an issue does come up....See MoreUser
4 years ago
PROJoseph Corlett, LLC
4 years agoShaun Trivedi
4 years agoSJ McCarthy
4 years agoShaun Trivedi
4 years ago- PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
4 years agoYou can use Dirta over control joints and it's guaranteed against lateral movement; up and down, not so much.
Lay your Ditra and tile to accommodate movement, please. Your designer will get over it.
This interior control joint had a strip of isolation membrane laid over it. It cracked the diagonal tile anyway. They put down LVP.Shaun Trivedi thanked Joseph Corlett, LLC lizziesma
4 years agoShaun Trivedi
4 years ago
katinparadise
4 years agoShaun Trivedi
4 years ago
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