Bathroom Remodel Rerouting Plumbing Drains Line
The initial remodel of our 7x10 bathroom did not require moving any plumbing and we planned to DIY the entire project. Now that we have everything in, it is apparent that the old configuration will not work. We now need to move the bathtub, sink and toilet. The bathroom is gutted down to the floor joists. The crawl space provides easy access to the main sewer line that runs through the bathroom prior to exiting the house. We have installed water shut off valves and plan to replace the cooper pipe with PEX. While we are capable of installing water lines, bathtub, vanity, toilet and fixtures, we are not comfortable with the required sewer drain line modifications. The toilet will require splicing into the main sewer line just before it exits the house. The vent pipe will continue to exit through the same location in the roof but will need to be routed to the left of the tub valve and water lines. The tub and sink drain line will need to be installed including p traps. Because this is a log cabin, with exception to the vent pipe that will share the only wall with the tub filler, all sewer lines including p traps will be installed below the floor. We are ready to install the sub-floor but figured we get the plumbing estimates while everything is exposed. The existing plumbing drain lines are still in but can be removed with a single cut.
How much can we expect a plumber to charge for the required drain lines? I can't see how this will take an experience plumber more than 3 hours. My past experience with plumbing estimates has included major sticker shock. That is why we are now comfortable with installing fixtures and running water lines.
Comments (11)
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4 years ago
PROJoseph Corlett, LLC
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoRelated Discussions
Repost. New Problem w/ DIY Bathroom Remodel- Cast Iron Drain
Comments (3)MommieLady, Wow. You have noooo idea how nice it is to read such an uplifting post right about now. Just noooo idea what it means. Thank you so very much! Ok, can you keep a secret? Shhhh...Just between me and you, k? The legs are brown resin with a screw hole drilled in the bottom. Son bought me the correct double-ended screws and it was like magic. Screw one end of double-ended into leg, the other end into bottom of vanity. Another shhhh, K? Searched for almost a year and couldn't find a 24" vanity that didn't take up too much depth space and with a usable drawer. Vanity is a re-purposed microwave cart. Didn't want to lose the utility drawer at the top (with sink hanging inside vanity) so had son reconfigure drawer and glides and put it at the bottom. (gotta have a place for that almighty make-up, doncha know *grin*) Hey, I kept telling everyone I was on a strict budget, now maybe they'll believe me. lol And you are so right, in the grand scheme of things, the quappy work the previous owners did to create a master bath, leaving us with the mess, is a small obsticle when I start to think of the bigger things that could go wrong in other areas of our life. Your post has given me the umph to keep "plugging along"---Thank youuuuu! In fact, I'm printing your post and I'm going to stick it where my new medicine cabinet 'should be' but isn't, yet. lol It will serve as my new "Keep Pluggin' Along" mantra each day from here on out. You're too kind. Amity P.S. The faux work, in all rooms where I couldn't afford the real stuff, was done by me. See? told ya I was on a strict budget. lol Again, many many thanks!...See MoreBathroom Reveal, Thanks to the Bathroom and Remodel Forums! (pic
Comments (56)This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage....See MoreNew Bathroom/Addition vs. Bathroom/Kitchen Remodel
Comments (5)thanks to all who have posted so far, especially Eric. We can probably save/budget down the road for a kitchen redo, or do part of it ourselves. Additions would be a little harder for us except finish work (floors, tile, etc. Can do drywall even but would need to find time to do it). What that kitchen has is a U shaped layout, not too bad except there are overhanging cabinets between a small dining/family space and the kitchen. It's a counter/pass through kind of setup where someone can sit at stools and talk with the person in the kitchen....except the cabinets hang down so the person in the kitchen has to look under them. We would likely tear those out and relocate the stovetop to the perimeter wall and make that pass through an island. Then that entire space could become kitchen/dining. It is possible we could still move out a wall on that (kitchen) side of the house down the road too, we are in Hawaii so all the construction costs are much, much higher than mainland. So jealous of all the posters here who can put on a large extension for less than 50K. Plan A or Plan B will cost us about the same. We don't plan to sell and move anytime soon, but should we need to we're leaning toward sq. footage instead of just extending current bath and upgrading the kitchen. Our neighborhood is about 20 years old so people are beginning to redo those rooms as the fixtures and appliances are ageing. We redid all the appliances about three years ago with stainless finishes, new faucet/sink, and redid the countertop Corian, so the kitchen is livable - just need to clear out some clutter and make smarter usage on available storage space. We could paint or restain the cabinet doors to freshen it up. A few neighbors are creating the "big bang" kitchen now but I'm not certain a 70K upgrade will improve the value that much as a new neighborhood is planned about 5 miles away within the next couple of years. Would we love to live in a "WOW" kitchen, of course. But as with most people we have to make a decision on where it is best to spend the money for now. We could feasibly also add on a 2nd story in future years, but we prefer the single story and if we age-in-place as planned, the new bath will include wide accesses and no-curb shower....See MorePlumbing connections in concrete? Tile bathroom before or after tub?
Comments (17)LOL, I knew about soldered copper, but had never heard "sweat". I learned something new! Thanks. One plumber did not know they were hard copper and can't be bent. Not good... So, the connections/fittings will be soldered if copper, or they will be PEX. They will be under the concrete when lengthened. Both plumbers said that was not to code, but they didn't seem to care since no one will inspect inside the concrete. I just want the job done correctly, but it seems like it will not be to code. Thanks for your help. Now, I will know a little more about what the plumber should do. I have had 3 or 4 plumbers come here to do the work, then they change their minds I guess. They say they will call me, but I don't hear from them, and they don't respond to my calls. I found another plumber through my electrician, and he is supposed to come Tuesday. I can't believe this bathroom has been gutted since April, and nothing has been done yet. Southeastern Oklahoma used to have cold winters, but we rarely get past freezing now. Last ice storm was 2007....See More
shead
4 years ago- PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
4 years ago Bruce in Northern Virginia
4 years ago- PRO
User
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago julaney
4 years agoWe are moving forward and will do the work ourselves if it comes to that. At this point the final configuration will be determined by the drains and vents required for a free standing tub, toilet and sink. As shown in the initial post, the existing constraints include log walls which cannot have any plumbing, a single internal wall which holds the vent stack that continues through the roof, maintaining entry and exit points for existing 3 inch line. I also plan to use the internal wall for the tub filler. All other plumbing will be in the existing crawl space which will require putting p traps for both the tub and the sink below the sub-floor (I know not allowed). The previous pedestal sink had the p trap below the sub-floor and we never had any problems. The entire crawl space is accessible and provide plenty of space for proper slope. The biggest challenge is venting each fixture. I really wanted to flip flop the vanity with the toilet but thought it would be really difficult to vent the toilet in that location. The design tool I am using wants to run horizontal vents to the stack. I'm sure this is not optimal. Also the tool refuses to run a vent to the sink. Our kitchen sink has an Air Admittance Valve which works well so I guess we could do the same but would prefer vent to the stack if possible. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Sorry if I don't have the all the proper terms down, hopefully the drawings make it understandable.
Bruce in Northern Virginia
4 years ago
Seabornman
4 years ago
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