If it's a PDF you'll have to convert it to a JPG first... at worst you could post a screen shot of the PDF (as long as it's still legible). Also, sometimes the upload is slow - if you are uploading a JPG, wait until the photo is no longer greyed out before hitting the submit button

I would take emilyam's advice, and use a side-loading pantry: Then use the open shelving on the wall where the fridge is now located. Have the upper cabinets on the range wall die into the window wall instead of turning the corner. And use all drawers in the bases. Are you planning on adding a peninsula where the table is now?

Hi Jennylu98. I hope I'm not too late to add my 2 cents worth. I'm currently going through a kitchen remodel and my cabinets are ordered. To me, it looks like you're thinking about a sliding glass door OR window and it isn't yet installed. If that is the case, I have another idea for your kitchen . . . but first, a few things you'll want to know. You won't like the 33" lazy Susan because the opening is too small to get things in and out comfortably. I've had the 36" for decades and it's much better. Also, do not get the plastic Susan because they don't last. Spend a bit more and get the "Super Susan" which is wood turn tables on shelves. They hold more weight and don't warp and break. You won't like your sink half offset beneath what looks like a 27" window. It'll drive you nuts and it looks awkward which makes reselling difficult (never say never selling). By code in most cities you must have a minimum of a 36" walk way around islands, between cabinet surfaces (such as parallel cabinets in a galley kitchen), etc. You really need at least 42" for comfort. You need 30" behind chairs and 24" width to seat people comfortably. You need 12" overhang on a breakfast bar for knee room comfort and skip corbels because they are kneecap breakers! With quartz (which I'm getting) the installers can put steel braces for the top to have support. Toe kick drawers are only 1" deep! Don't forget toe kick and crown molding. (I didn't do the light rail at the bottom) I don't know how to upload a photo floor plan idea, so I have to write it, so here goes: Wall 1. Beginning on the pantry wall, I put a 3" spacer for ease and then 54" of 2' deep pantries (get pull out shelves) and then the refrigerator with a panel up each side. Then a rolling cart with your quartz choice top approximately 4' long. It sits in front of the floor to ceiling window. I would change the window dressing to have a pleated shade that pulls up from the floor and leave it pulled up to counter height. This way people don't see the cart and you have extra counter space or can move it where you need it. Also, if you ever sell, you can take it with you! On the other side of the window & cart is a 24" cabinet and then a 36" lazy Super Susan. You've turned the corner to Wall 2 (stove wall). Next to the Lazy Super Susan is your 18" drawer cabinet, 30" stove, 18" cabinet, and another 36" Lazy Super Susan. You just turned the corner to Wall 3 (sink wall). Next to the Lazy Super Susan is your 36" sink base with tilt out and bottom pull out tray (enlarge that 27" window if you can), 24" dishwasher and two 3" spacers in an "L" shape (you don't want the d/w crammed against a perpendicular cabinet). You've now turned a corner and you'll have an 18" double trash cabinet (or whatever style trash cabinet you choose). In the space created between the trash cabinet and the d/w, which has only access to the dining room door, goes a 3" spacer and a 24" cabinet (that opens in the direction of the dining room). You can then put a 36" regular or Dutch door with a window in it. You'd probably want to use stools with no backs on them so they could be tucked under, but you could seat 4 comfortably. You'd still be able to have 2 pendant lights hanging and also your recessed lights for the work area. It also gives 48" between the counter and the fridge. Now Wall 4. I would then have a 15"-18" deep 36" wide cabinet on the dining room wall behind the outside regular/Dutch door for a coffee center. For what it's worth, be careful what cabinet brand you decide on. I researched about 40 different ones. The brand I used last time I'm not using this time. The one before that is okay but doesn't offer as many possibilities. Some companies reputations have gone downhill. You want good construction and you want soft close hardware. You also have to think about the base cabinet shelves. Some companies only have half shelves. You'll really appreciate pull out trays or drawers because getting on your knees to get something out of the base cabinet is not fun. Also, my place I ordered my cabinets from had an awesome certified kitchen designer who tweaked my floor plan (Dianna Tanis at CabinetDirect.com 1-888-263-3333 and no, I don't get a fee for recommending her). I hope this is helpful.

Not sure what you went with. I would remove rounded arches…square them off. It looks more modern. Then consider a u shape instead of galley if you can