Dog issues...advice??
Texas_Gem
4 years ago
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Natural pond/bog?
Comments (6)What your situation represents is the effects of siltation. The original pond has probably filled in with sediment. This may be due partly to a decrease in rainfall rates in your area over the years that precluded any strong water surges into your pond to help keep the siltation to a minimum. There are several ways of approaching the matter. The first should be to get an idea on the rate of flow of the water into and out of your pond or bog area. Then determine if the outflow area can be steepened and perhaps lowered to help increase water flow out of the wet area. Then I would dredge out the pond area proper. You may want to look upstream at the inflow system to determine if natural flow is being blocked. If it is your property then you can remove debris in the upstream portion to help increase flow into your pond. Once all this is accomplished I would let the system return to whatever balance in inflow/outflow will occur. Do not plant any trees or any plants until the system's balance is determined so that you can have an easier stab at making whatever adjustments in flow rates you may wish to pursue, either increase or decrease. Once you have stabilized the pond water flow rate and are satisfied, then let the system sit as is for a year and see what Mother Nature will do as far as introducing plants into the system. For mosquito control you may want to use the dunks and once the pond has cleared maybe even start working out a natural tier of fish, from herbivores to a few predatory fish, and slowly introduce into the pool, PROVIDED that plant life has returned to the pool. If not then check out what native aquatic plants are in your region and see if you can either buy or collect some to introduce into your pond BEFORE introducing fish. You should wait a year for the plant growth to reach a stage where it can be grazed without being overgrazed, or supplement with fish food as necessary. It is a precise balancing act and may take some time to get all the vectors working in such a way as to eliminate it becoming much of a burden to your time and resources. you may want to check with your local library on earthen ponds. I could not find a website that wasn't trying to sell either a product or a service in regards to your question. Main thing is TO THINK IT THROUGH COMPLETELY BEFORE YOU STICK THAT SHOVEL INTO THE PROJECT! Good luck....See Morewhat are your opinions on pot size?
Comments (25)Yo' mama huh? Yo mama so fat her a$$ shadow weighs 50 pounds! ;o) I use H2O2 solutions as a temporary aid to soil oxygenation when I have been lazy in my repotting of plants & find myself dealing with soil collapse and/or (accompanying) root-rot issues. H2O2 has an extra O atom (compared to H2O) in an unstable arrangement. It's the extra atom that makes it useful in horticultural applications. Generally, we're not concerned with aerobic (O2-loving) forms of bacteria normally occurring in container media or on roots. Since H2O2 is an unstable molecule, it breaks down easily. When it does, a single O- atom and a molecule of water is released. This O- atom is extremely reactive and will quickly attach itself to either another O- atom forming stable O2, or attack the nearest organic molecule. Many disease causing organisms and spores are killed by O, the free O H2O2 releases is extremely effective at this. H2O2 can help eliminate existing infections and help prevent future ones. The free O atom can also destroy organisms in dead organic material (i.e, leaves roots) that are rotting and spreading diseases. Reduced O levels and high temperatures encourage both anaerobic bacteria and fungi. When plants growing in soil are treated with H2O2 it will break down and release O into the area around the roots. This helps stop the O from being depleted in the water filled air soil air spaces until air can get back into them. High O levels at the roots will help encourage rapid healthy root growth and discourage unwanted bacteria/fungi. H2O2 comes in several different strengths. 3% (drugstore), 5%, 8% and 35% solutions. Cheapest is 35% which you dilute (to 3%) by mixing 1:11 with water. This is what I use, 35% food grade mixed to a 6% solution. It has no stabilizers & should be kept in the freezer (where, btw, it remains liquid even at 0* F.). Plastic or glass is best to store it in, & the container should be opaque to prevent light degradation. If three-liter colored soda bottles are available in your area they are ideal for mixing and storing H2O2 (in fridge). Once you have it mixed at 3% (or start with 3%) mix it at the rate of 4 oz./gallon of water as a cutting dip & up to 8 oz./gallon to water containers with on a regular basis. Start at the lower concentration and increase concentrations gradually over a few weeks. I add 1 oz. of 6% solution to a L of tap water, which is, of course, the same as 2 oz. of 3% solution. H2O2 in high concentration is a powerful oxidant and will bleach skin white as it quickly oxidizes almost anything it contacts, so be careful with it if you use it. Gloves and eye protection are required by all but the foolish as a solution that's too strong can destroy any organic molecule it contacts. Once mixed to 3% or when using 3% over-the-counter solutions, it is pretty safe, however. Al...See MoreNeighbor's trash dump
Comments (35)Nearly one year later, the plantings are starting to fill in nicely on the lower slope; the ivy and goutweed on the upper slope are hanging in there and hopefully will start to spread. Garlic mustard is taking over one part of the upper slope and I'm just leaving it alone, figuring anything with roots is better than bare soil. I know it seems to everyone that there should be some legal remedy here, but it just doesn't seem to be the case. According to the lawyer I consulted, I might have been able to collect costs of the cleanup on my property only (which was a relatively small portion of the total issue) IF I had a paper trail of letters and notices before I did anything -- but I do not, it was all just verbal discussion. And, there's really no legal grounds for forcing him to clean up his own property or collecting costs once I did it for him. As far as my city government goes, they are notoriously lax about this type of thing -- they basically told me if it was not a health code violation (i.e. toxic substances or attracting vermin, etc) they would not get involved. I had a conversation with the State Dept of Environmental Management and they told me I could file a report but informally said I would probably be wasting my time as they had bigger problems to deal with (toxic waste sites etc) and were unlikely to devote any resources to trash in someone's back yard....See MoreHelp us decide!
Comments (24)Sorry for your realtor and seller, but glad for YOU! You've said you prefer contemporary. You probably already know this, but they are a hard sell. If you buy an existing one, many were poorly constructed -- all 'style' and little practicality! (Ask the Wright owners in Oak Park.) Still, if that's what you want and you will live there a long time, go for it. I'd find a good 'gardening' lot with a nothing house on it where you can tear down and build new. Since you are childless, you might want to look where the schools are not tip-top -- as they are in the New Trier area where you are looking. Hmmm...that sparks a thought about big lots and small, inexpensive homes in an *unincorporated* area where you'd have no big teardown fees: Northfield, in the Avoca school district, bordering the forest preserve. Oh well, you've probably already thought of THAT! I was going to go on to mention the Village of Golf -- poorly rated schools. There are still all those lots IN Chicago itself with dinkum houses...??? Edison Park? Norwood Park? There have been a LOT of foreclosures and short sales. Maybe you don't want to be in the City....See MoreTexas_Gem
4 years agoTexas_Gem
4 years agoElmer J Fudd
4 years agoTexas_Gem
4 years ago
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