Galley Kitchen to Open Space Design Difficulty
I bought a Spanish home with vaulted T&G, beamed ceilings on the main level. It presently has a galley kitchen with a soffit ceiling neighboring a large but awkwardly rectangular family room. I want an open, chef’s kitchen that won’t separate me from my family while I cook. Aesthetic would be white and bright with a very traditional style (we’ll fix the ceiling aesthetic as we go)
This is the floor plan minus the offending dividing wall that a designer gave me. But no matter how I push around my kitchen pieces and my couches (I have 2 8’ couches that are 42” deep), I can’t figure out a workable solution for my kitchen... or I can’t figure out a family room that leaves a logical place for the tv...
I really, deeply appreciate any insight into making this WORK that you can offer. My kitchen is about 40yrs old and it wasn’t good to begin with and hasn’t gotten better with age lol
A few things to note:
*I have a big family and badly want 2 dishwashers, 2 sinks, and a double oven wolf range.
*The present pantry extends 5’10” deep. It borders a niche presently (marked wine) that is the backside of my dining room. The niche and the pantry do not need to stay as presently depicted and I don’t have to have wine storage.
*The doors adjacent to them open to the formal dining room.
*The double doors adjacent to the powder room are the top/rear view of a formal grand entry and are centered vs the family room fireplace and vs the front doors of the home. Figuring out a way to not put kitchen work area in the sight line of the front doors is one of the things making my brain crazy, because that would remove some grandeur from the formal entry. I’m ok resizing the opening if I can still keep it centered. I’m also ok pulling that entry back towards the front of the house, but worry about the bathroom access ending up looking into the kitchen...
Comments (15)
4 years ago- 4 years ago
@newideas The dining room/living room is one connected space with a panoramic ocean view, so while it would functionally work, it would really take away from what is presently a primo entertaining space (and would require putting in walls and breaking up the view). I’m limited to putting the kitchen somewhere within the space that’s graphed out, which is a huge space overall, but I feel like the interior doorways and the backyard doors (I’m planning 8’w 9’ high Kolbe ultra view French doors there) remove my options for kitchen workspace. And in an open space, the inherent lack of walls is making me nuts! But I also can’t figure out where to add any to alleviate the problem, either. Where’s the wine? lol
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Tweaking layout: uppers and dining space of open galley
Comments (20)oh so helpful, y'all! lavender - wood on bottom, white on top? or flip? If I have to go with ikea fronts for cost, I'll do white on both. Countertop definitely TRIMMED. No seating there at all. Just to cover the cabinets & nothing fancy. Franklin edge. Wrap frig. That would really make a difference to trim it. bmorepanic. Hi! The petrie sofa looks so much like a sofa I got at David Edward access excess. like this one, but no arms: From banquette layout? I moved it from my LR to try out as a 'banquette' sofa. Love it, but it is too low for dining table height. Presently wondering whether I can alter it somehow to make taller. Laughing at the boat anchor analogy for my current table! The table is from my former (married) life and was purchased for a very different space. rhome. Oh I think I'd love to use color on the uppers. Will depend on whether I can afford scherr's or go with ikea premade fronts. Rhome410, you brought up the peninsula overhang too. I really feel like there is not the space for a peninsula with overhang and still able to keep DR space not too crowded. btw, LiGHTING: I do not like my pendants at all. Another poor choice! These will eventually change. So no design based on these. Hoosier. I had not planned on using it originally. Peninsula lights. Don't love them (another chance to sell on CL!) And thanks for asking for my original inspiration photo. You hit key points re: what I like about this kitchen: colorful without being circus-like naked wood a bit of whimsy tile from ceiling on down upper to the countertop from ceiling clean lines transitional style but still looks solid. [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/divine-kitchens-llc-contemporary-kitchen-boston-phvw-vp~66894) [Contemporary Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2103) by Boston Kitchen And Bath Divine Kitchens LLC Here is photo of the space without hoosier or peninsula lighting: From In Progress Kitchen From In Progress Kitchen DR light (thanks live_wire_oak) From In Progress Kitchen Uppers From Coffee/tea/toaster Ideas From Coffee/tea/toaster Ideas A less expensive version of the AnnSacks Tile - yet to be discovered: From Ideas Soapstone counter From Soapstone and Slate Lower (boy does this VGFir look yellow!) From In Progress Kitchen A warmer wood? From In Progress Kitchen Hardware From In Progress Kitchen Ummmm -- pawa. right on. I am buying piecemeal. Backwards! Most of the stuff I have (excepting OTR microvent, buffet table, not quite right peninsula lights) I already had. The backstory is that this remodel I started fresh from marital break up and right when I moved into my new all-mine house. So, while I've been energetic, I violated the live in your space for a while and think through/prioritize changes. It's ok. I needed the project at the time, badly wanted to 'nest,' have it all done . . . probably still do. That said, now I am ready to be done! I really appreciate the help you all are offering....See MoreKitchen Layout Open Galley with Island - Round #1
Comments (17)Not commentary about any of the above - just additional ideas in the drawing. The commentary is about the half-table and trying to seat 3 people in half of a 42"ish table. The first bit is I know they are kids now, but kids become bigger quickly, then start having friends over. I'd have to have you build something that had a life span of less than 5 years because your kids grew up. A child starts to use adult sized furniture at ages between 9 and 13. The next bits are about how big people are and how they fit and how chairs fit and legs! Ask me how I know and I'd show you my halfish 48" round table hung on the wall and supported by two legs. Halfish because it's more like 3/4. We bough an unfinished undercarriage and legs for a round table base from tablelegs.com. We assembled the "ring" with two leg positions showing and chopped off the back of the ring and substituted with a straight board. A french cleat is attached to the wall and the table. In our case, a "lock" was fashioned from a piece of molding that finishes off the joint to the wall. It slides in from the side and keeps the table from rising up off the cleat but yet I can easily remove the entire table for deep cleaning of the floor or when I want a new rug. The legs are because it's too large of a thing to cantilever and its subject to a fair amount of weight. Lots of people use the table edge to push themselves up or let themselves down. The younger crowd might decide it makes a nice stage or place to fine groom your 75 pound dog or bang together some school project on top of it. If you're lucky, they'll forget about the air nailer in the garage. Rule 1: The chairs need to be able to fit within the legs. We decided on the size of the base by the distance between the needed legs plus how far the legs would be from the wall. I went out and measured a bunch of dining chairs to get a feel for the amount of area that was needed. We ended up with Madeleine Side Chair from RH - it's a pretty small chair. It's about 18" wide. Ikea has some small ones too. I used the average of maybe 12 small chairs to set my widths so that I could change my mind or buy new ones without a lot of concern over whether they would fit. A person needs about 30" of table edge before invading another person's space or hitting an obstacle. That's all on top. Underneath, allow for the greater of the chair width or 24". In your case, the island will function as a wall. People and chairs need a little extra distance from the base (not be crowded by moldings or supports). I didn't want a lot of shoe prints on the wall. The higher section can cause a lot of elbow knocks. People who are left or right handed (we have one of each) need a little extra distance between the higher thing and the favored arm. So think about how this gets supported and how big the top needs to be. Things like legs are always partly decoration driven and that's ok. Truly feel free to make something that works as a baking area but can be pressed into service as a seating area occasionally if you want - or break any other ergonomic rule. As long as you know the pitfalls, I'm happy. I'm not dissing the purple photo above, but as you look at that, notice some things. The stools can't be tucked in. An adult couldn't sit there comfortably without putting their feet on the lower shelf - possibly not even then because its high to use as a foot rest and an adult leg might not fit. Rule 2 - pick your chairs/stools first. Tables are 29-30" tall, counters are 36" or 42" for the most part. Chairs and stools are widely available for those heights. Back to the purple picture, they used some other height cause it looks like about 33" tall to me. Odd heights = custom made chairs/stools or adjustable height stools. If you don't, everyone will be uncomfortable every time the chairs are used. So, if you are tall people and want to raise your counters, budget for those custom stools to match your custom chairs before doing the same on the island. Rule three - the shorter the height, the deeper the area should be. These allowances are for knees for average height people. Taller people may need extra depth allowance. Tables and 36" high counters both need about 15" of depth. 42" high counters need about 12" of depth. Rule 4 - Chairs and a lot of stool designs will stick out from the table/counter. As a planning allowance, upholstered or large chairs will stick out about 15" from the table or counter edge when empty. Chairs with upholstered seats only and stools with splayed legs or splayed backs will stick out about 12" - even when tucked all the way in. Backless chairs or stools may run into each other under the table and end up sticking out some unknown amount. Chairs and stools with arms may stick out further depending on where the arm height intersects with the top. Last observation, people here have all kinds of opinions about aisle width and they are all strongly felt. These are mine: If you move cleanup to the sidewall - because of the refrigerator and the ovens, I would figure out how narrow I could make it and still be comfortable doing everything. For me, it depends on how far the front of the ref doors stick out cause that can vary quite a bit. It could be 24" to 36" depending on the make and model. I would set the aisle at no less than 42" from the front of the ref with closed doors. If you are a family of refrigerator cruisers, I might increase that distance to 48". I might increase the aisle between the sidewall cleanup and the island to 5 feet to make SURE everyone could easily get by the dishwasher and open opposing drawers. Leaving cleanup in the island, I'd allow for 5 feet between the island and the run containing the ref and ovens. I had that in the prior kitchen between a range and cleanup - it worked well. Even when we both were in the same aisle doing two different tasks, we never worried about getting through or whether we could open a drawer. Good luck with your build....See MorePlease help with designing our galley kitchen!! Designers help!
Comments (15)If teal isn’t doing it for you that blue color is really pretty too and still would look gray with brass and the grey floor tile! I found a few good options on amazon for the hardware by searching brass square pulls and also these on way fair: https://www.wayfair.com/Hamilton-Bowes--Ventoux-5-Center-Bar-Pull-24128SB-24128SCOP-L1123-K~HMBW1035.html?refid=GX293766718941-HMBW1035_40348394&device=m&ptid=762818256643&network=g&targetid=pla-762818256643&channel=GooglePLA&ireid=83020192&fdid=1817&PiID[]=40348394&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsbjP3fmW5AIVgrfsCh1oWwbcEAQYDSABEgIS_PD_BwE Here is a link to a similar light fixture! https://www.bellacor.com/productdetail/elegant-lighting-ld6042br-eclipse-brass-and-frosted-white-12-inch-one-light-pendant-2116486.htm?partid=googlePLA-DataFeed-Pendants-2116486&kpid=2116486&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping_-All_Products(NEW)&utm_term=&utm_content=multi-converters_(2-5)&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIv_64qPqW5AIVFKrsCh0HGQGgEAQYCCABEgJyK_D_BwE I think the subway tile will look classic and gives you more leeway to get a countertop that can be the star! If you picked the geometric backsplash I would say go for simple very toned down counters....See MoreRenovated small condo galley kitchen and laundry space
Comments (6)In answer to the questions above (I cannot figure out how to comment to each individually - weird): 1. I've been waiting four months for my Bosch 500 series dryer. However, it appears I finally will have it installed this next Monday - the 20th! I learned a lot about ordering appliances from a big box store vs. small appliance store, and I recommend strongly using your local appliance store over big box any day of the week. 2. Thanks to all re the stainless counter. I'm very happy with it. As for cost comparison, given that it's 130" with a built in large sink, backsplash, and drainboard, I'd have to look up those individual costs, but it was less than $4,000, including freight (which was from Charlotte SC to Atlanta). Given that it comes with the plywood attached, the labor cost of putting it in was minimal. It took my contractor's crew all of 10 minutes to get it from the loading dock, up the elevator, to installed....See More- 4 years ago
- 4 years ago
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoI don't think you can get all you want from that space. Your family can't eat at a table which is 24" deep, and you need more space between the hearth and furniture. Your work aisle in the kitchen is 3' wide. If you keep part of the wall, you can put the fridge in a spot where it's hidden, but easily accessible from the FR, with clean-up zone also hidden.
If the pantry is sufficient, leave it as is; if not, maybe re-work to include the wine niche. Do you have another coffee/serving area in the DR?
As for the TV, can you put it on the mantel, behind a door, or doors, disguised as a painting or mirror?
4 years ago- PRO4 years ago
- 4 years ago
- 4 years ago
@Dee
I am leaning towards no eating area in this room save for at an island. We have been eating in the DR every night to enjoy the beautiful sunsets as it is!
@Mama
That tv solution is definitely an option and would preserve the formality of the entry (especially since we only watch tv after the kids go to bed).@Patricia and everyone else :)
I have meetings planned with a few KDs and have an architect (he’s furiously working on the exterior update to fix all the sadness presently going on there to make it “Santa Barbara Spanish”). That being said, everyone I’ve spoken with is asking how I intend to work in the space and I have no answer. So there’s no starting point... And all work here is very very pricey, so I need to contain cost by starting with some sort of foundational vision. Also, since we’re doing the exterior, I can move/resize/eliminate windows...Here are some more pics from before we bought. The wall and lower beam in the nook are faux/non-load bearing. The long family room wall’s upper beam is split at its walkway corner :( But the structural engineer says I can replace it with an engineered beam and shoring up the existing footings without too much fuss. I did this layout with the fridge in purple, sink and dishwashers in the island in blue, and the range in red... it would require changing windows.
- 4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
Omitting the table and changing the window opens up possibilities. If you keep part of the wall, you can hide the fridge and clean-up zone, have the clean-up sink under a window, and have space for dish storage near the DWs and the DR. Since you have a large family, this plan offers several prep spaces for helpers.
I drew a hutch-type cabinet on the end, or you could use a free-standing piece of furniture, to break up the long counter.
Do you think it would look too much like a bowling alley from the double doors?
4 years ago- 4 years ago
@apple I’m going to play with google sketch up. I’d forgotten about it since playing with it when it first came out! Thanks so much for reminding me!
@mama I am kind of loving the idea of breaking up the windows... I did this last night with 2 windows on the north and south walls to maintain the symmetry the house really exhibits elsewhere. I think it works both around a big range and a large tv wall? I moved the fridge a bit so it would contain a bit of a butler’s pantry/pantry access behind it. I could store stemware in glass cabinets in there... I don’t know at what point an island is deemed too long, but I feel like traffic flow would really be from the tv to fridge, and then the work triangle, so the rest of the length would serve as extra extra prep space and loads of island dining for my kids and their friends. I’d seen this (attached) kitchen before which has a Long Island leading to a butler’s pantry and it felt nice to be in it. I also thought the upper cabinets being from the counter to ceiling were kind of a cool vibe in an area that doesn’t need full depth counters.
@newideas funny you should mention a bar area - the original floorplan had a large wet bar in the FR. That door behind the couch is a secret door in the wall that leads down to a wine room (which we’ve repurposed as a library). The prior owner removed the bar... and we’re working on a cellar under the house.
- 4 years ago
I would say that's more of a continent than an island. ;)
I did this last night with 2 windows on the north and south walls to maintain the symmetry the house really exhibits elsewhere. If symmetry is important, this plan provides it, although the window at the bottom, on each side of the room can be omitted.
You need to reconsider the aisle widths on your plan, but especially in the kitchen work zones, and especially since you have a large family, kids, and their friends to accommodate. I drew the huge island, but left at least 48" for flow, with 54" in front of the fridge. Although this plan puts the clean-up zone a few steps farther from the DR, it gives you separate zones, so that several people can be comfortably working in the kitchen together. Kids can be loading or unloading the DWs without interfering with prep and cooking tasks. Dish storage is across from one of the DWs, with a hutch for serving pieces, or less frequently used dishes, beside the second DW.
There is space for separate ovens, or an extra oven/MW combo. Or, MW could go in a drawer on the island. In the island is a shared trash pull-out, convenient to both zones, You can have a dedicated baking zone, and multiple prep zones (stars).
- 4 years ago
JAN MOYER