Parma, It was me. Here is the article: How to Pick the Best Size Chandelier for your Room By Susan Welch Heeney, ASID, Decorating Studio, LLC Whether you are selecting a chandelier or light fixture for your Dining Room or Foyer/Entry Hall, it can be confusing to decide on which size is best. Then, once you determine the correct size of light fixture, how do you determine at what height to hang it? Its really not too hard if you follow some tips that Interior Designers and Decorators use when selecting and handing chandeliers. Visual Weight of the Chandelier for a Dining Room Before following the guidelines below, keep in mind that the style and heaviness of the light fixture will affect what size you need to go with. A visually heavy chandelier can go more towards a smaller diameter. A visually light chandelier can be a little wider in diameter. ChandelierSize Over the Dining Room Table One universally correct formula for determining the correct size light fixture for the Dining Room is to go with a fixture that has a diameter that is half the diameter (or width) of the tabletop. For instance, if the Dining Room table is a rectangle of 48" wide x 72" long, a chandelier that is approximately 24" (half of the 48" width of the table) in diameter would look fabulous. If the table is a 60" round diameter, a 30" diameter chandelier would be appropriate. If you want to hang two chandeliers over an exceptionally long dinging room table (for example a table that is approximately 54" wide x 120" long), then if you select chandeliers that are 1/3 the width of the table and hang them centered on each end of the table that would be correct. Therefore each chandelier would be approximately 18" in diameter. The height of the actual chandelier should be determined on the ceiling height of the room. Many Designers follow the rule of allowing 2 ½"  3" for each foot of a rooms height. Using this calculation, a room that has an 8 ceiling can use a chandelier that is approximately 20" to 24" in height. If the ceiling is 10 feet high, than a light fixture that is 25" to 30" would look more appropriate. The chandelier should be hung centered over the table (unless you are installing more than 1 fixture over the table) and the bottom of the light fixture should be about 30" above the table top. Dining Room chandeliers should always have a dimmer switch so that you can use the Dining Room for a multiple of activities from romantic dinners to a study area for the kids. Chandelier Size for a Foyer or Entry Hall When you donÂt have a table to help you determine the width of the chandelier you need for a room, you base the size on the overall room dimensions. One easy favorite that rarely fails is to add the width and length of the room together in feet and convert that figure to inches to come up with the correct width of the chandelier. For example, if an Entry Hall is only 8 x 6Â, you would add 8 + 6 together which equals 14, but instead of 14 feet, it would indicate that a 14" diameter chandelier would work best. If a room is larger, say 10 x 18Â, you would figure the diameter of the chandelier by the following formula: 10 + 18 = 28 (Therefore, a 28" diameter chandelier would fit the room proportionately.) It makes sense that the higher the ceiling the taller the chandelier should be so that it will look balanced in the room. Many Designers follow the rule of allowing 2 ½"  3" for each foot of a rooms height. Using this calculation, a room that has an 8 ceiling can use a chandelier that is approximately 20" to 24" in height. If the ceiling is 10 feet high, than a light fixture that is 25" to 30" would look more appropriate. The chandelier in a Foyer or Entry Hall should be hung centered in the room with the bottom of the fixture no lower than 7' from the floor. 7' is the absolutel minimum to allow for head clearance. If you have a tall ceiling you should follow a rule of thumb of at least 7' 6" from the floor to the bottom of the light fixture. For more information and practical help on decorating, visit DecoratingStudio.com. All Rights Reserved, Copyright @ 2005, Decorating Studio, LLC Reprints are allowed as long as article, with by line and links to Decorating Studio at top and bottom of article are left intact.

It's not really grey or tan. It's sandy, with some grey in it. The grey grout definitely looks better than the tan grout, doesn't match at all! There is no colour b/w those 2 (out of the what, 20 or so colours, you'd think there'd be something!). These were the initial ones I thought would match, then yesterday DH picked the same 2 out all by himself (tile guy left the samples to pick after the tile was laid). Thanks! He's coming later today to grout. And out of all the clowns that have been in our house, the tile guy and the hardwood floor guy have been so awesome. No wasting time, careful with our stuff, pride in their work. It's awesome.

Hello, Kate. Those sound ok to me. But I had a MG once that died over the winter on year 1. I think the problem may have been mine... that I did not supply enough moisture during winter but I am unsure. I just know it did not come back after I planted it in the Fall. :o( Rebloomers from the Forever and Ever Series, Let's Dance Series and such would be my suggestion if you do not like the other types of hydrangeas. ES seems to generate an unusual set of complaint postings where people report about not gettting blooms at all anytime. But the bulk of posters are typically in colder locations, like Zone 5-6. I agree that you may have to winter protect the shrub to get reliable bloomage. This year (January) is one of those times: winters here were mild and suddenly crashed down, killing buds and stems. Some in "protected locations" were not affected. But a rebloomer mophead would 'save the day', produce new stems and bloom in the summer even if you do not winter protect. Most of my shrubs came with the house and they tend to be non-rebloomers, small/compact serratas and oakleafs. None of those rebloom so I added some paniculatas. The oakleaf hydrangeas are more drought resistant, winter hardy to Zone 5 and now come in more compact versions that produce great Fall foliage. They may need winter protection but are worthy of consideration due to the Fall foliage show Paniculatas and some of the new arborecens will let you skip the winter protection business and many new arborescens varieties are not white. Many unfortunately are white although they turn pink after a month or so. At the moment, I am having a mental block and can only think of Limelight and Little Lime as the only non-whites in the paniculatas but arborescens have several pink ones and lime colored varieties. But, arborescens may dislike the hot summers and paniculatas do best with more sun and yet you do not want to give them too much afternoon sun or the leaves will sunscorch. So stopping all of my rambling thoughts and returning to the original questions ;o) maybe any of the nonwhite rebloomer mopheads (or lacecaps?) that blooms pink-purple-blue may be best if you do not like the other types of hydrangeas. Just in case you are not aware, your 3 selections of mopheads will probably turn pink in your mostly alkaline soil eastern OK has some acidic soils)... unless you amend the soil. If you want/get ES, it can get large here as our growing seasons are quite long. Mopheads for me have started leafing out quite early in the last few years so make sure you have a location that can handle the shrub's size.

Thank you @gm_tx. I went with standard height, the 5800 series. Counters are Calacatta Vagli that I got a great deal on (prob bc they were 2cm and I bought two thin half slabs which worked since I didn’t have an island.) So happy with how they turned out as I kept doubting my decision (had been debating btwn those and 3cm Imperial Danby.). I’m almost done with the kitchen and will post after pics with the hardware and range installed.