What's Blooming in Your Garden Jan 2020?
4 years ago
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- 4 years ago
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Garden update and Dec/Jan Blooms :)
Comments (23)You're welcome Jackie. Unfortunately, when we give advice to folks here in California now, we'll need to ask how old their construction is, not just where they are located. If it's less than about twenty years old, it's likely they are dealing with some level of seismic compaction. The newer the construction, the higher the compaction percentage as the percentage of compaction has increased over the years. If it's custom built, perhaps only the house pad was compacted to that density. If it's a tract, everything has that compaction, at least here in the Los Angeles, Ventura, San Bernardino and Riverside Counties areas that I've encountered. Up in Northbridge, in the Santa Clarita Valley, they shaved off the tops of the mesas and built on the red sandstone. Getting Banksiae, Pandorea and Wisteria to grow there was a real chore! Once the houses were built, about six inches of "top soil" was spread everywhere with sod laid on it. Trees were planted in holes drilled into it and many drowned. Keeping the sod alive requires daily watering, like growing turf hydroponically. All the lawns contain drains because any water in the turf runs off as it has no way to soak into soil containing virtually no air space. None of the vines did anything until nearly a year of being fed a 50-50 mix of all purpose organics with Gro Power Plus every month of the year. I began taking care of that garden in its sixth year. Year seven was when the vines took off. Most of the vine and tree roots came to the surface, the only place there was any oxygen, and ran under the sod. Once they really started growing, planting anything else in that soil was nearly impossible. The front yard was the worst. Everything drained down to the public sidewalk where it had no where to go but up and over the concrete. It almost appeared as if there was a broken water main due to the constant weeping across it. There wasn't. It was all irrigation which couldn't seep into the compacted soil. The front walks were lined with Icebergs, which did OK until you reached the lowest end by the public sidewalk. There, the soil soured and the bushes lasted just a few months before they completely drowned. The only cures were either to install French drains (rejected due to cost) or plant the end Icebergs in large pots set on the ground, like using raised beds to help alleviate chronic drainage issues. The pots were heavy foam which looked like concrete and they did their job for several years before requiring replacement. It's really the pits having to excavate huge holes under larger plantings, then installing the plants on a mound where, even after settling, the crowns remain above the soil level where they stand better chances of not drowning. In those conditions, you never want to add any organic material to the planting holes. When organics sit under water, anaerobic bacteria grow and the organics sour. Hydrogen sulfide is created (the soured diaper smell when a pot stops draining) and the plants die. Simply loosening the severely compacted soil and refilling the hole with a large mound over it, then planting the tree, shrub or large rose in the mound and mulching the surface of the soil only, is the safest method. At least in that way, the deeper roots can make use of the trapped water (which they do naturally, anyway) without the soil souring. Feeder roots spread out under the sod and mulch making it difficult to plant anything once there is a dense root mat under everything, but at least the desired plants can be successfully grown. White Birch and California Pepper trees are two of the worst in these situations and what many opt for because of their "beauty". Both have extreme root systems and quickly make use of every particle of "top soil" and every inch of possible root spread. My experience is most people love annuals planted around their Birches. After just a few years, that is an impossibility due to the extreme root mass. Even putting pots under them fails quickly due to the extreme invasion of tree roots, unless they can be maintained completely off the soil with no soil wash out through the drain holes. If there is ANY way for the tree roots to enter the pots, they WILL, very quickly! Kim...See MoreShow Us Your Landscape/Gardens - A Photo Thread - Jan & Feb 2018
Comments (57)Thanks Babs. I sometimes see a few scales even now, and I just pick them off with a Q-tip with a little alcohol. But when it's outdoors, when it's warm, I actually really blast the whole tree with the garden hose. I go all over, under, around etc. with quite a strong spray of water. I hold each leaf and make sure it's clean. Really not that hard to do, and only once is fine. It really helps to remove debris, scales etc. The plant seems to enjoy it!...See MoreShow Us Your Landscape/Gardens - A Photo Thread - January 2020
Comments (21)Pretty cat, Sue, on its matching couch. It looks very warm and comfortable indoors. We got maybe an inch of snow before midnight and it's been slowly melting and condensing since then. I did shovel some of it to clear a path and make sure the birds could reach the seed on the ground. I probably could have waited for Mother Nature to do the job for me, but I get protective of the birds and critters. Temperatures are supposed to be closer to normal for the next week. Claire...See MoreShow Us Your Landscape and Gardens - A Photo Thread - October 2020
Comments (58)Sue, this is just my 2nd year with PJP - and I've been impressed. It struggled some in mid summer when it was really hot and humid for about a month, but once the weather started to cool off, I trimmed some of the ugly foliage, which wasn't that much and it set a slew of new buds. I've had a couple of dozen blooms this fall. I garden organically so no spray. It's such a white white rose and fragrant. I put a minor effort into it this season and it's performed well. The best of all 5 of my roses. Just some compost and alfalfa meal in early spring, then more after the first flush of bloom and some liquid fish emulsion fertilizer when I remembered it. That's it. The foliage looks very clean right now too. I bought 'Amber Morning' at Bluestone some years ago. It's very hardy. I always trim it back by half to keep the flopping to a minimum. I do have one in more shade that does flop more. My sun exposure drops in the fall too. Even in my full sun garden, the angle of the sun puts it behind a mature Maple that is south of my bed, when during the summer it manages to get above it. So actually that A.M. does get reduced sun in the fall. Oh, one thing - it is late to bloom. It just started opening and all the buds aren't open yet. I'm not doing much fall clean up this year. Just my front bed that is along the street. My neighbors are always nice to complement the garden, and even nicer when they ignore the mess when I don't get to it in a timely way. [g] I've decided not to move anything or work on any projects. Not up for it this fall, but also, I felt the plants weren't up for it. They really struggled with the drought and the heat and I still don't think we've had enough rain to make up for it. So I didn't want to stress them further. We'll see in the spring, I may redo and move a few things. Nothing major like the project you're getting ready for. I was trying to catch up on the thread this morning and see you had two dumpsters of tree stumps?! That is a LOT...LOL. You must be happy to have that done. Now I imagine you're amending soil in the new area? Have you considered lasagna beds? I've done that in the fall a couple of times and loved the way it worked out. Lots of earth worms and pretty much ready to plant in the spring, if you have enough precipitation over the winter. That is some color on the Callicarpa!...See More- 4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
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- 4 years agolast modified: 4 years agosultry_jasmine_nights (Florida-9a-ish) thanked jerzeegirl (FL zone 9B)
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- 4 years agosultry_jasmine_nights (Florida-9a-ish) thanked jerzeegirl (FL zone 9B)
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