Well I got a new update... As I mentioned previously the bathroom vanities were removed and are back in the shop to correct the edge.. This was before I even had any time to speak with the wife and think about negotiating.. Today I receive a phone call from the project manager.. He tells me that they can enlarge the sink and give us the 24 or the 28 inch sink that has the same width.. The fabricator looked over the specs of the new sinks and both will work.. HOWEVER, with that said I have two options.. Option #1 is to have the fabricator come to the site and do the cut with the granite installed.. Project manager says that the only drawback is that they will have to buff the edge by hand and the finish will not be "as good" as we have now since they do the buffing with a machine at the shop.. Option #2 is to have them take the slab out of the house and bring it back to the shop.. They will do the cut there and use machine to buff the edge.. The exception with option #2 is that if the granite breaks it will not be on the fabricator and I would be responsible.. At this point I flip out on the builder and ask how I am supposed to get a finished product that is less quality then what I would have gotten because they failed to go over the sink size.. The project manager claims again that he did show us the exact sink.. Then goes on to say that they have had to enlarge sinks in the past and no one has ever noticed the difference and that even though its done by hand it still comes out great.. He says that if we go with option 2 and something happens it will cost roughly 2k-3k to replace and said that it would fall on me regardless of the whole issue that they never went over or confirmed sink size.. With that said I am thinking that its not worth the risk of 2-3k to have them take it out.. The builder is obviously taking a strong stance as I assumed they would since granite is an expensive item and not something they can make up for.. So if something goes wrong and it did fall on them its money out of their pocket and not something they can just have their hourly employees fix.. I am thinking of just letting them cut the granite at site and leave it at that.. At this point we have upgraded so many things that our contingency fund is almost depleted and the risk of 2-3k is too high for us.. Has anyone seen site buffed granite? Is it something that will be noticeable compared to what we have seen now?

We finished our remodel except for a mirror over the sink and a recessed medicine cabinet on a corner wall... Thought I would post some photos of how,the vessel sink turned out installed recessed as an apron-front sink. The guy doing the remodel used local cabinet shop to fabricate the center 2-door vanity section to accomodate the install, added a stronger bottom shelf for the sink to rest on and cut the normal front stile to fill in the front opening... We used a remnant of Cambria Oakmoor Quartz with gray shadings vs the usual tan for countertop, a bench top in the tub/shower, and the niche bottoms. Found it at the fabricators our contractor favors and they were very good to work with. Pencil edges on all pieces but the tub bench...that is demi bullnose. Tub alcove and wall under window used the DalTile Modern Dimensions white matte 4x12 subway tile w/Florida Tile Bliss Iceland in niche backs. Moen Rothbury chrome single lever faucet for sink and tub/shower. Toilet is AS Town Square toilet, Princeton tub 30x60, and the AS Loft vessel sink... Vanity hardware Milan 6" in chrome...flooring is LVT click install from ProSource--Resista H2O--waterproof...in kind of driftwood gray, fairly uniform Went with a vibrant coral for the walls --SW Coral Reef--made up in Benjamin Moore eggshell and used in the linen closet walls as well. Trim is Super White. Electricians add added a Panasonic exhaust fan with heater/no light--because of joist spacing. Light fixture is from Wayfarer..I wanted a 4 but husband wanted a 3. There is a can in the tub alcove...both lights on dimmers. added a double outlet on corner left of the sink and an outlet behind the vanity, available inside second drawer on right.

Your husband's vanity looks fine. Your drawers look larger than your sink cabinet. For a 72" single sink vanity, I'd do a 32" sink base and 20" drawer bases. That's plenty of drawer storage. You'll need to know those measurements to order mirrors and place the sconces. Also to pick a sink that fits. Don't put a dinky sink in that large counter. I might also bump the sink base out 2" to give it a little more prominence. The sink is the focal point, not the drawers. With the sink bumped out, you could put a valance or feet on the sink cabinet and separate valances/feet on the drawer bases. That way it won't look like a run of kitchen cabinets. This has triple mirrors too. Sconces are mounted on mirrors. I like the molding on the drawer bases here. You don't stand there so you don't need a toe kick. Notice the ratio of the sink base to the drawers and how well that would work with the triple mirror idea.

The light switch is a fairly simple fix - just put the lights on a motion detector switch so they go on without needing to use a switch. In California Code requires that bathroom lights be on motion detector so that they don't remain on if people forget to turn off the light. I thought it would be strange when I moved back after my remodel but I really like it. Not all of my lights are on the detector but I almost never need more light than what goies on automatically but if you did the switch for those lights would be fully accessible if necessary. The only glitch is that I will forget to turn on the can over the shower and sometimes I will wind up taking a shower in twilight because the lights on auto will have gone off. FWIW my fan is also on auto and turns on and off based on sensing ambient levels of moisture in the air. FWIW I don't think a barn door would work in a common area bathroom since it doesn't really provide enough privacy for the occupants.