RU, I see only one picture. That one matches closely with brown rot shoot blight. Soggy is what it loves so another positive correlation. The only thing I can't tell for sure is if the live leaves are on that shoot or a different one; more pictures are needed to see fully whats going on. It could be that that one shoot died back at the base and its not brown rot shoot blight after all. Make a bunch of followup posts to add pictures. Scott This post was edited by scottfsmith on Fri, May 10, 13 at 12:45

I am really surprised that so many seem to be saying that Meyer's is a difficult citrus. My experience couldn't be more different. Mine has been overwintering in a cold garage where the January temps ran from 32 F. to 55 F., it was hardly watered and the light is decent but not intense. It is literally covered with fruit now and is beginning to push active growth in response to stronger sun and longer days. It also blooms throughout the year. Meantime, another Meyer's I brought inside for the winter, is covered with scale. I intend to wash it thoroughly and get it out of the house A.S.A.P.. So far, I would say I have been least impressed with flowering and fruiting (or lack of) of true lemons (not the hybrids). Maybe after a good year, I'll feel differently. Yes, citrus are good about recouping from defoliation. My Persian lime recouped nicely in the basement (under fluorescent) after some problems in late fall--currently in flower actually. Good luck!

Hi, Linda - what is meant by "I have added stones so I am thinking the roots not showing is the problem, I scooped out excess dirt, hopefully this is the cure"? Something is amiss, but with more info from you, we can probably figure out what it is. Adding "stones" to the bottom of a pot might or might not be a bad idea. If the grow medium you're using supports a layer of 100% saturated soil that defies gravity by refusing to exit the pot (a perched water column/ table), stones used as ballast can be your plant's best friend, because the stones displace a volume of medium which would otherwise be saturated with water; however, stones used as a drainage layer serve only to elevate the perched water table's position in the pot. These pots are full of grow medium and the shaded part represents a perched water table (PWT). The maximum ht of the PWT in any given medium that supports PW is a constant, no matter the size or shape of the pot. In the case above, the PWT is 3" tall, and you can see it remains so in all 3 pots. In the middle pot, the water "perches" (like a bird on a wire) just above a 2" drainage layer of small stones, making the distance from the pot bottom to the top of the PWT 5" instead of 3". So this would be one of those EUREKA moments when you might be discovering you've shot yourself in the foot. Large stones would be no different than bricks or empty soda bottles (caps on) and would be considered as ballast as opposed to a drainage layer. Remembering that the ht of a PWT is a constant for a given medium, adding stones as ballast does not raise the ht of the PWT. It simply displaces a fraction of the medium equal to the volume of the item used as ballast, reducing the volume of soil capable of holding perched water. With a bit of planning, ballast can eliminate more than 90% of the medium capable of holding PW. It acts passively and only needs to be done once. In figure D below, an over-turned pot is employed as ballast, and my guess is it would eliminate about 80% of the medium capable of holding perched water in this example. But, back to the original issue. How long have you tended the plant? What do you do insofar as a fertilizer program? Have you ever repotted (includes bare-rooting, root pruning, and a change of soil) or potted up (to a slightly larger pot)? I would suggest you ditch the "moisture meter", which isn't very accurate at all, as it measures electrical conductivity, not moisture. Clean the probe and insert it into a cup of distilled water and watch it read "DRY". Using a wooden "tell" to "tell" you when it's time to water does a much better job. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al

Daytime temperatures outside have been around 53-55 F. Nighttime temperatures outside have been around 43-45 F. Inside our house, during winter, the temperatures hang around 65 F. Our garage temperatures doesn't get that cold, maybe 55-60 F. Many of times I would go down to the garage during the night to fix my car. I don't feel that cold in my pajama or have a need for a jacket. Anyways, some of the leaves on the mango tree are turning dry. I don't understand. The soil is not dry, not compact, and get good drainage. I only water the tree when the container feels light, or once every 2-3 weeks. Any ideas? The stem looks fine. I'm just afraid that when Spring time rolls around, their won't be any leaves left on the tree.