Getting new gas range this week for CC house
Lars
4 years ago
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New 30" Self-Clean CC range
Comments (5)Sparkling Water This is my first open burner range. So far I could not be more pleased. I have always had gas for my home stove, but this is a fair step up from the wimpy burners and "simmerers" I had before. Breezy There is a somewhat smaller Chef King that would be easier to store. You might check it out. It will still fit over 2 burners, I think. I just can't wait to fix pancakes on my big one! I used the wok ring tonight for the first time. I really like it. It is designed to contain the heat on two opposing sides and vent extra heat out the other two sides. This maintains cooler places you can pull foods that don't need the high heat. You can also position the wok so the handle(s) are protected by the high sides from heat. It heated wonderfully, of course, on the CC. I am very pleased that I ordered the wok ring with the range. I love stir fry, and this works better than a skillet. And much better than my wok used to on my old JennAire. You do want a good sized wok, not a 10 or 12 inch one. I think they recommend 14". Trevor, I think, has a nice video on using the wok grate. This post was edited by Bellsmom on Mon, Aug 4, 14 at 9:50...See MoreHelp me choose new range - gas vs induction
Comments (26)The comments about ten-power settings got me musing on the subject and about Amy's initial question about logarithmic power controls. Here's where that lead me. Nobody really has logarithmic power controls, but there can be power settings spaced to sort of approximate a logarithmic curve -- a number of settings at the low end with only a couple of additional points needed to define the steep side of the curve for really high heat. In theory, that can be done with a ten-step power curve and some folks do find 10 power settings fine for what and how they cook. Others do not. Is anybody else here old enough to remember the GE stoves and cooktops from 50's and 60's with ten mechanical pushbuttons for heat settings? Those pushbuttons were literally "digital" controls, meaning that you punched them with one of your digits. GE sold a lot of them for a couple of decades, so some people found them adequate. Some did not. For the current digital electronic ten-step controls, others here besides loonlakecamp have reported satisfaction with a ten step set-up. Others, like me, would find them inconvenient for my cooking with, say, my pressure cookers. With only ten heat level steps, I would have to be constantly switching settings to maintain the correct pressure. Power setting "1" might be too low, setting "2" might be too high. Switch to 1 for a while until the pressure drops a little too low, switch to 2 for a while until it gets a little too high, then back to 1, etc., etc. With in-between settings, I avoid that annoyance. You don't use pressure cookers? Then maybe having in-between steps won't matter to you. This is just one example of how cooking styles can differ and how more settings can matter to one cook and not to another. Much fuss is sometimes made about the supposedly infinite adjustablity of gas burners. As a practical matter, though, we mostly try to get the burner to the same relatively few settings. Searing is pretty much searing, isn't it? If you deep fat fry, how often would you care if if the oil were at 352° instead of 350°? But maybe somebody is working with sugar syrups where, say, it might matter if a syrup is at 325° and not 360° and then maybe it matters if the induction burner only has ten settings. That said, the subject of induction power settings and controls can be more complicated than just the number of settings. The need for finding "in-between" steps for induction cooking can reflect two different aspects of ways that manufacturers design induction burner controls. One consideration is the power cycling that all induction burners use for settings of less than full power. A technical term for this is "pulse width modulation. or "PWM." It is the same kind of thing a microwave does for low heat levels---momentary pulses of power that average out at a particular heat level. With most PICs as well as some brands of induction cooktops and ranges, the PWM is pretty crude. I've seen this somewhere described as firing up the burner for a second or two of omigosh hot and then switching totally off for three or four seconds. While these pulses average out at a certain heat level the timing can be problematic for, say, the srambled eggs that Amy mentioned at the outset. Combine that kind of "low frequency" PWM with the crude power controls found on many PICs, and you could have a reason that Amy would find herself wanting steps in-between power level "1" and "2" for scambling eggs. Some full size induction ranges and cooktops work this way. I noticed a lot of pulsing at the low heat settings on the Maytag induction range I saw demoed several years ago when I was stove shopping. From past threads on PWM, I gather than Whirlpool's induction ranges and cooktops (which include Maytag and Kitchenaid brands) have used crude PWM. For searching out past threads here on this subject try a search strings like "induction + pulsing + gardenweb" and "induction + cycling + gardenweb." A few of the expensive PICs (Cooktek, Garland, Vollrath) and many full size ranges and cooktops use much higher frequency PWM. Instead switching on and off for a second or more at time, the power switches on and off many times per second. The higher frequency of switching yields much finer power control that more closely approximates a steady heat level. The other design aspect that can lead to wanting "in-between" settings is in how the engineers program the electronic controllers to space the power settings on the appliance you are using --- that's the kind of logarithmic curve I thnk Amy may been thinking about when she posed her question in the original post. . For manufacturers, the least costly controls use simple linear spacing. Setting "1" would use the PWM to average 10% power, setting "2" would be 20%, etc. Even with a high quality PWM, though, 9 or 10 linear settings may be too crude, A thing most induction users discover pretty quickly is that they do most of their cooking in the low to medium range settings. The highest setting can be used for boiling. One or two medium high settings takes care of high heat applications like searing. There seem to be three strategies for induction manufacturers to address the crudeness. One is to add half-steps between the numbered power settings. The other is to program the stove's controllers to put more steps in the low to medium range and fewer in the high ranges. The third strategey combines the first two. Without using the particular induction stove or cooktop, it can be hard to find out whether the particular unit was designed to use one or the other or some combination of them. In my own somewhat limited experience, it seems that the GE induction appliances and Electrolux's Frigidaire/Kenmore ranges seemed to use a modified-half step approach with some concentration of steps but also using half steps for finer control. The Electrolux-branded models use a slightly different approach with quarter-steps at the lower power ends and fewer steps at the high end. Miele cooktops seem to use a similar kind of mix with the option of switching on more steps. I'm not sure how BSH (which includes Bosch) handles this except that their induction appliances manuals show that half-steps are available. The Samsung freeestanding induction ranges seemed to follow the GE model (19 half steps). The reports about Samsung's ten-step "Chef Collection" model seem to conflict, some seeming to say that stepping is linear, some hinting that the settings may be skewed to the lower end. There is a yet another strategy which is the near infinite stepping of of potentiometer-like controls. These control systems seem to be very expensive so, AFAIK, they are used only for the commercial Garland/Manitowiac PICS and maybe the new Miele induction range have this. I say "maybe" for the Miele because there is nothing about it in the product literature and the display shows only whole-number settings, but a couple of posters here -- livinginseattle is the name I recall -- have reported finding that the knobs can be turned to provide fine gradations of "in-between" settings. Some folks would find that ideal. Then the question becomes: how much are you willing to spend for the "ideal" (and are there other design compromises that have to accept in order to get that ideal function for the burners?)...See MoreNew gas range too wide for cabinet opening
Comments (2)Ask the cabinet professionals who will be doing the other cabinet alterations. They are the on site experts....See More36" Gas Range Help - Should we take a chance on a new player?
Comments (12)@jeen-ferreri -- funny you should ask about "Mueller manufacturing ranges." A friend asked me the same question yesterday. Here's what I told my friend after a quick search: The short (TL/DR) answer: the ranges are made in China for a marketing company that is a subsidiary of entities that use artificial intelligence systems to identify consumer buying trends and market products to ride those trends, selling mainly through on-line platforms. IOW, not really an Austrian company let alone one with a commitment to long-lived well-built products let alone the resources for much (if any) post-sale customer support. (Read the very long thread here on Z-Line for another example of what Tanisha Covey was saying above.) You also asked for thoughts about the value of getting an extended warranty from HD on such stoves. Again, here's a TL;DR answer: don't bother. Last time I checked, HD simply sells you a kind of insurance contract for a third party. I've never found any HD with servicers on staff. Those are the brief responses. My friend likes details. If you do, too, here's what she got. On the stoves: Mueller Direct (a/k/a Mueller USA) presents itself as an Austria-based firm that designs appliances which it has made for them in its factories in PRC-China and which operates from headquarters in the city of Industry in Southern California. As best I can tell, however, both Mueller Direct and Mueller USA are just business names rather than actual business entities in their own rights. Neither turned up as a registered business in a search at the California Secretary of State's web site. "Mueller Austria" does turn up as a trademark registered to a New York-based Delaware limited liability company called Truweo, LLC. In turn, Truweo is a wholly owned subsidiary of a Delaware corporation calling itself Aterian, Inc. That corporation registered a stock offering last fall with the U.S. Securities Exchange Commission. The prospectus --- here's a link if you want to follow-up further https://ir.aterian.io/node/8121/html ---- listed the current controlling owners and entities. As far as I could tell, none of them appeared to have anything to do with manufacturing or post-sales product support or, for that matter, Austria. That prospectus links you to other filings and documents with more details so you can follow up further if your choose to do so. Those documents might or might not possibly lead you to the Chinese factories or firms that do the actual manufacturing. Researching them might or might not turn up info on quality control and reputation. My friend decided to look elsewhere for a range partly because of the above and partly because she decided she didn't want a 36" range, after all. YMMV. Here's the long version when it comes to extended warranties. Know that there are three kinds of them. One is a factory warranty extension through the product manufacturer itself. Those are rare these days and often are pretty expensive when the warranty and service is from the actual manufacturer. If the manufacturer has factory servicers in your area, an extended factory warranty can be worthwhile. Not going to happen with brands like Mueller, Z-line, etc. The second type of extended warranty is a service contract which is either through your selling dealer (whom you chose because it has a well-regarded service department) or with a well-regarded independent servicer with experience with the appliances in the brand you bought. In my area, some or all of the cost of the extended warranty may be refundable if your appliance gets through the warranty period without needing service. These contracts tend to be rather expensive. Around here, for example, they commonly run around $350 on large appliances like stoves and washing machines. For that you have some prospect of a future refund/rebate and some assurance of reasonably prompt service from somebody who knows what he or she is doing and probably arrives with the necessary replacement parts and the skills to install them without damaging something else. Not always the case, though, so best to check further when presented with this kind of extension. For one-third the cost (and sometimes even less), the third kind of extended warranty is basically your vendor (in this case Home Depot) selling you a kind of insurance contract which is actually between you and a third party administrator (sometimes an insurance company, sometimes not). The third party agrees that, should your appliance need warranty service, they will try to find a servicer willing to accept minimal (if not negligible) compensation for trying to fix your broken appliance. Failing that, they agree to pay you some pro-rated portion of the cost of a replacement appliance or maybe only offer you a store credit on some portion of a replacement. I've never bought this third kind of extended warranty myself. What I've heard from my neighbors who have done so (including five or six who got theirs though HD), is this: even before Covid, it took weeks and multiple visits from over-scheduled, inexperienced, ill-trained servicers only to find out that none of them fixed your machine and then you spend several more weeks (sometimes months) trying to get some kind of check or credit issued so you can get a working replacement. Now, all of what I said is applicable to well-established brands. From what I've seen, all bets are off when it comes to "class 3" extended warranties on the jobber brands that have been popping-up over the last decade. Depending on the product, local servicers may not be able to even get wiring or parts diagrams, let alone find the parts. That's the sort of thing that leads to the oft repeated advice to skip buying this kind of extended warranty....See MoreLars
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