Fully-prepped meal delivery recommendation help, please!
6 years ago
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Help! Brown Patch...using corn meal, soymeal, etc.???
Comments (9)I live in Orlando and got hit with a fungus problem last year in one 20 x 20 area. I attacked it with Corn Meal I bought from Walmart. The grass that was affected slowly recovered and is very healthy this year. I don't think soybean meal will help much with a fungus problem from what I have read on this and other boards. They either recommend corn meal or milk/water, or commercial product sold from Home Depot. From what I read, don't put fert. down if you have a fungus problem. This might make it much worse. Cure the fungus before applying fert. Some people recommend milk/water combination if you can't use corn meal. I used the CGM in March for prevent of crab grass/weeds and it worked 100 percent. I had zero problems crabgrass this year but the downsize is the cost for CGM, 50.00 for 50lbs. I used Bradfield Organics brand CGM. Corn Meal - I could not find a large amount of Corn Meal until 15 minutes ago when I found a local ethnic store that sells 50 lbs for 18 dollars, which for me, is a decent price. From reading the last few days about Corn Meal as a prevent/cure for fungus it seems to have a pretty good following with the organic lawn people. So I will buy some tomorrow and put it down Friday and once a month until the rains go away in Oct. The cracked corn is different from the CGM. The CGM is really good fertilizer but expensive. It really prevented my weed problem and "greened up" my lawn. I've "gone organic" on my lawn for about 1.5 years and for the most part and happy with the results. It is a "learning curve" for the fungus problem and obtaining CGM. I liked the green results from soybean meal too. It is 18 dollars for 50 lbs down here. There advice I got from this and other boards has been very helpful. Mowing high, water deep/infrequent, CGM worked well. I had a terrible lawn when I started and it has greatly improved. A few tips - - I ripped out the worse parts and put down alfalfa and black cow mixed together. Then I put down the sod, with more alfalfa on top. That section is deep dark green after one year and weed free. It borders my neighbor who has nothing but weeds but those weeds never grow on that section of my lawn. Amazing.... So using Black Cow/Alfalfa if you have to redo sections of your lawn is something to consider. - The alfalfa down here is sold for horse feed...same with the soybean meal, dried molasses. CGM is different from the corn meal and cracked corn. If you rip out your lawn make sure you prep your yard before dropping new sod. There is another site (best lawn info) dedicated to organic lawn info. They have some great info too and some amazing results. Good luck!!!...See MoreBone meal, feather meal...etc etc
Comments (17)I'm going to assume rutgers is happy with the initial replies on this and forget about the question. In other words, I consider this thread to be officially hijacked. If I am incorrect, please, rutgers, reply now or forever hold your peace. If you look around the Internet at other gardening forums, too many refuse to acknowledge organic gardening as a program that can work. Of those few that do acknowledge it, those associated with Rodale are pretty much stuck on compost being the only "approved" (by Rodale) material to use; and tilling being the best preparation for the soil. Some other forums are beyond any hope of science providing answers. They want to contradict anything scientific unless it specifically agrees with they they have been saying. I have played in both those arenas. Too often there are dips into pure fiction and just plain hope. I'm going to ignore the followers of Jerry Baker because they are usually not hurting anyone with their approach. In my previous message I was just comparing the GardenWeb forums with the other organic forums I have seen. I was not comparing with an ideal perfect universe. In my perfect universe, the universities would have equal amounts of organic certified soil and un-certifiable soil (never any DDT for example) for research. There would also be equal amounts of funding and knowledgeable researchers ready, willing, and able to get going. And there would at least be someone in academia listening to the masses to see what they have tried and are claiming to be working. The research on corn meal against crop (and lawn) fungal disease ceased when the lead guy died in the 90s. I'd like to know why greensand greens up St Aug turf on alkaline soil after a rainstorm and nothing else works. I'd like to know more about why a surface dusting of baking soda seems to kill crabgrass in 4 days (in southern lawns). I'd like to know more about why vinegar sprays kill plants but a soil drench seems to feed them. I'd like to know if/how plants can control and change the sugar chemistry they send to the soil in response to environmental stresses they receive. I'd like to know more about foliar feeding of proteins on plants and the plants' response to that. I'd like to see someone take a nutrition approach to soil microbes and the food they eat (deerslayer probably saw that one coming and is groaning right now). Another thing I've seen is unhealthy competition among organic academes. "My organic is better than your organic." We've had people here who play that game and we have all lost as the GardenWeb masters kicked them off the forums. I'm not just talking about one person, either. Some of us are too easily offended by different approaches. Deerslayer, I'm not taking your organic approach to task. I'm just trying to keep you honest. I apologize for the language I used where you thought I was denigrating your message. I can see that, but it wasn't meant that way. I'm a work in progress in many ways. Regarding hit-and-run posters: I've been accused of that, too. Sometimes our time budgets allow frequent visits here and suddenly we can be called away in the middle of one or more threads. That's just the way it is. I wish they had a way for us to subscribe to threads so we could see what's happening....See Moreneed help vetting miele w3037 delivery
Comments (4)George and Rococogurl (*hi there!*) Thank you so much for your responses and my apologies for not responding sooner. Gardenweb has been made "site non grata" at the lab where I work and so I can no longer visit here during the daytime at work. I was able to read your responses on my iphone but not able to respond (log-in) on it until today when I could get on via my home computers. George, thank you so much for the contact info. DH tried to contact those folks but I think he wound up talking to the agent for the installation department only. I did speak to the design centre at wellesley about this delivery as well as to a Miele tech service agent on the phone. Both said as you do that (a) the shipping struts should be on until the final move and should remain with the units and (b) repeated as Rococogurl has that if there was a problem that we'd "know in the first use". Also, DH and I will assert that we have no proof when or where the struts were removed (or even that they weren't removed in our house) other than that (a) we didn't see them remove it in the basement, (b) that they weren't handed over or housed in the normal place, and that (c) in speaking to a couple of the Yale sales agents they declared that their customary practice is to remove shipping material earlier (one chap said in the warehouse the other said, in the truck). Well, we weren't looking to trip the delivery guys up and we aren't looking to create a tempest in a teapot so we accepted their verdict that this would be okay and allowed for the test to tell us if the machine survived these clowns. Sort of. Today they came to effect the install. And in the process, broke a part in the back from yanking things around without looking. Not a part that is needed for the machine to function - but still. One chap also declared to DH that while they go get the Miele install training, that really Miele is just super fussy and that the machines don't really require the meticulousness that Miele insists on. So they take the training but just install as they do any other machine. DH told them that he was a stickler for process and that they'd better do what their Miele minder told them to do. But who knows what they actually do. Frankly, I'm disgusted with Yale's installation division. We bought all our appliances from there when we did our kitchen and didn't even think to look elsewhere for these units. Now, there isn't a chance I will patronise Yale again. I told Miele Design Centre about our experience and they were super nice - gave us some signs to look for for trouble, did not slag Yale off at all, confirmed that this was extremely cavalier operation and gave us two places to go to to submit our reports - at Yale and at Miele. We plan to do just that. At the end of the day, I had the opposite experience from Rocs about these delivery chaps. Nor professional at all - cavalier slackers who seem to take no pride whatsoever in their job. Miele DC also told me today that to get around just these sort of experiences, that Miele has instituted a policy of warehousing, selling and installing their products with the customers directly - not through retail outfits. That this practice hasn't been implemented here yet because dealers have a strangle-hold on business in the NE, so it won't be until about next year that Miele will do the same here. After this experience, frankly, I applaud the move. Unless of course, this policy is like some other "white-glove" deliveries we've read about in these parts ... Anyhow, most of that was pointless venting. I wanted to thank you both for your insights. They both were very helpful to us. We did get the machines installed afterall and they are functioning....See MorePressure cooker for meal prep recommendations?
Comments (17)I think I'd prefer ones that are clad only on the bottom, not up the sides. So far, the ones I've looked at say the aluminum layer is on the bottom. When using triply pots with cladding up the side, sometimes food that splashes above the water line gets kind of cooked on because the side is so hot and there isn't water there. For a pressure cooker, I'd rather have the bottom heat the liquid and the liquid or steam do the cooking without a very hot side interfering. That page you linked says that the difference between their fast and super fast is the pressure. So it isn't talking about how fast they heat. It's about how fast they cook once they get up to pressure. "Fast" is 55 - 60 kPa (kilo Pascals). That's about 8 PSI. "Super Fast" is 72-80 kPa, or ~ 11.5 PSI which is still below the "standard" 15 PSI. Then they have 2 pressure models that they say are between 60 and 100 kPa. 100 kPa is 14.5 PSI, pretty equivalent to the 15 PSI "standard". 14.5 and 15 PSI are 249 or 250 degrees F at sea level so no significant difference. The "fast" ones would be about 237 degrees F, so not a huge difference, but cooking times may need to be lengthened....See More- 6 years ago
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