Usually those heaters are 1500 watts. Typically they have two settings, 900W and 600W (meaning a med and a low power setting) with both switches on being high or full power. The result is, on high the maximum heat output is 5,119 BTUÂs. Depending on size of room, insulation factors, # of windows and on how many walls, window quality, storm windows present, heated or unheated space below or above which all effects heat loss and infiltration, the heater may be too small. Keep in mind that a 4x14 floor register, fed by a 6" round pipe with 110 cfm has about the same heat output as your electric radiator. That being said, not knowing the specifics of your room, IÂm positive that your heater is too small, since you say it works fine.

Your best bet is to have your burner service/ cleaning done by one guy and then buy your fuel cash from who is cheapest. It's all the same fuel, anyone telling you different is full of it. The fuel quality will exceed anything a home furnace will require and more often than not it's all coming from the same supplier/fuel terminal for a given area. A tip for trouble-free burner operation is to have two filters in the line and one of them JUST before the burner. be sure you watch the person doing the burner service and cleaning, ask a few questions about what he's doing (but don't get in his way or become annoying) and make sure he's doing everything you paid him for. More often than not, the companies who have customers sign service contracts don't properly service the furnace; this is VERY common. keep the two separate and find a good burner service guy and you'll be better off.

Our problem in the Northeast is that electric rates are extremely high. Before buying a unit, caulk, weather-strip and insulate the room you plan on heating. In this way it will minimize the length of time you will need to heat that area. Wear the proper winter clothes (sweaters) to further reduce body heat loss. With the high cost, electric heaters should be used to supplement your central heating unit. Heating a room solely using space heaters would be extremely expensive. Understanding the basics of hot air, in that it rises, the type of electric unit you purchase is important. Metal is a great conductor or distributor of heat while plastic or glass will slow down that distribution. Plastic also tends to crack with high levels of heat. There is a reason why home baseboards are made of steel not plastic. Have found that convention heaters are best for heating a area for a sustained periods of time. Oil filled or metal baseboard units are convection type heaters, while preferring oil filled ones cause they continue to throw heat after they have been turned off. Last, would recommend putting a metal shelve or table, with necessary clearance, above your portable heater. The metal will slow down heat escaping right up to the ceiling and will absorb the heat to slowly redistribute. Always remember to be careful when using any electric heater both for safety and affordability.

Depending on 1. Insulation 2. Size of home. I would not recommend electric baseboard hest. We had electric baseboard heat as backup installed in Cody, Wyoming about 5 years ago. We normally heat with woodstove, but duecto age and injury thought it would be a good idea in case someone became ill/hurt. After insralled a month 'trail run' was done using baseboard only. We are conservative with electric use. House 1800+ ft2. 23ft ceilings. Large ceiling fans for downward push of warm air. Good insulation and air leak test (done by professional company). Kept house at 68-70. Our electric company is a co-op. Our electric bill was over $500!!!!. We never used the electric heat again!! Luckily no illness/injury caused us to need to use it. Neighbors with newer homes/good insulation had $300 bills. Depends on the cost of electricity in your area and how cold where you live.