I think the blue flowers are called Campanula but might be wrong. I got a couple clumps from McTavish and they multiply like crazy. I will ask her . If the clump gets too big I just weed them out. Some were hiding some of the hosta . When they quit blooming I trim them back( right now in our location) Thanks for the lovely comments , I and still uploading some on Flickr but seems to take some time unless I go to their old uploader so I don't know why this is happening but that is working for me so far. I will get some newer pictures when the sun is not shining so brightly. Now to learn how to comment between each picture but thinking I may get the idea now. So far this Flickr is a free site but Myrle has one that has many added features so maybe will venture to spent the $25 when I learn As far as mosquito, hardly any at my place but I think they all hang out at Myrle's garden, she has forest and still waters lying around This post was edited by almosthooked on Sat, Jul 26, 14 at 18:02

Midnightsmum, the text will self-correct form to match everything else when you push submit, regardless of what it looks like when you paste it in. You have no choice as to text font or color or size, just whether it is bold or italics via the buttons below the post box. Citytransplant, I don't know how you view it, but your photo is sideways for me. (I can click on it and it is still sideways.) Do you post directly from an iPad? I put photos into my computer and use iPhoto to get them turned right side up. I don't know if there is photo manipulation software for iPads.

I wish they had tested the asymptomatic Lafter for the virus...just saying. Sounds like there's a source for the virus and vector mites fairly close to the garden...should be an interesting test. Similar tests (same plants) are being conducted elsewhere from what I've read.

Overall, this isn't a bad test at all. There are some things that require fixing, some that should be adjusted, and many that are just fine. It's good you used the starter on her lawn; she needed it! I'll account for the usage in my calculations and recommendations, assuming you went at bag rate (1 pound of P2O5 equivalent). Sample Depth 3: Four is the normal sampling depth, but that's no big deal. I'll adjust your answers to match a 4" horizon. Exchange Capacity 7.5: Silty sand, probably. The soil holds a tolerable level of resources and testing every other year will be sufficient to make sure nothing's going awry once it's adjusted. pH 6.4: Right where it should be, which is because most of the resources that generate pH are right where they should be. I'll want to adjust a few of them a little bit, but will do so in a relatively pH neutral manner. Organic Matter 4.8%: Nicely in the Good range. Certainly mulch mow, mow all fall leaves, and feed organically if you want, but this is not an emergency. The EC of the soil is high enough that there's no reason to specifically work on organic matter to raise the EC. Sulfur 11: A nice answer, with plenty of margin for adding sulfate-based chemistry to adjust things. I don't need much margin. Phosphorus 77 (103 adjusted): Low, and definitely impacting lawn quality. Target here will be 200. To adjust this, we use starter fertilizer, and my recommendations are below. Calcium 64.6%: Right in optimal range, although with a lower EC soil I'd like to adjust this a tiny bit (that 50 pound [67 pound adjusted] shortage is minor, but...) For this, we use gypsum, which is available at many big box stores, landscape shops, and garden stores. Get the pelletized, it's much easier to handle, if available (and it usually is). My goal here is to nudge the calcium levels closer to 70%. Magnesium 15.4%: Perfect. No magnesium is required or desired. Potassium 5.0%: Perfect (the previous test was wrong on this, I think). No potassium is required or desired, and this is absolutely optimal. Sodium 1.0%: Perfect. Sodium does nothing for a lawn, so very low levels are desirable. The gypsum might reduce this a tiny bit and, if so, great. If not, no problem. Minor Elements: Boron is deficient. The rest are fine, although if you wish to use Milorganite (high iron), that would probably improve the lawn color a little bit over time. Boron <0.2: Deficient. We use Milorganite as a carrier and 20 Mule Team Borax as the boron source. You can purchase 20 Mules at the grocery store in the laundry section. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of 20 Mule Team Borax and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for bag rate Milorganite (1 bag per 2,500 square feet), you'd add 12.5 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax. Recommendations: Seeding Time: Starter fertilizer at bag rate (you already did this). October 15: Starter fertilizer at bag rate. November 1: Apply 5 tablespoons (not a misprint) of 20 Mule Team Borax per thousand square feet. April 1, 2016: Apply 5 to 10 pounds of gypsum per thousand square feet (I'd prefer 7, actually, but anything in that range is just fine). Memorial Day 2016: Starter fertilizer at bag rate. Labor Day 2016: Starter fertilizer at bag rate.