If you look closely at the amounts being suggested you will note that the amounts are really quite small for the area, and probably not really needed. What did they say about Calcium? What is the level of humus (organic matter) in your soil? In addition to that soil test dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. to see what else might need to be done.

My suspicion is that you, having an "aggressive" garden (your term, not mine) means that you add a 'balanced' fertilizer now and then, to force growth out of those vegetables, or even the lawn. Well, you're doing what everybody has been told. Can't blame you for that. But it's not right. Not anymore. Not for you. You have graduated to the category of 'agricultural producer' rather than 'ignorant homeowner' or 'ignorant gardner'. And 'ignorant' does not mean 'stupid', rather it means 'not yet informed', which does not mean you will never be informed, it just means that you haven't been informed yet. The fertilizer companies design, and blend, and then market their products to homeowners who are basically ignorant of the problems that you are faced with. I can't really fault them for that. Their typical customer (you might make a better list) has: a. neglected their lawn for four years or more, or b. graduated the kids from school, and there's nobody playing soccer out back anymore, or c. bought a new house, in a subdivision that used to be a farmer's field, until the topsoil was scraped off, or d. in the gardening field, started a garden, by rototilling up a patch of ground. They're going to go back to the store, next week, to figure out what they might grow. But at the time of tilling, they hadn't a clue. No offense to those folks. We've all been there. The 'balanced' fertilizer that these folks purchase might be (pretty good chance, really) just exactly what they need, or, more likely, at least calculated to solve most of the problems ("please don't call us on the phone. Please don't.") that these folks are likely to run into. But those 'balanced' products tend to have too much potash, and too much phosphorus. Those particular chemical components of fertilizer don't get used up, the way that Nitrogen does. On a subdivision lot, hey, phosphorus might be needed ("Throw in some phosphorus"). You are not on a subdivision lot. Nor do you need phosphorus. Nor potash. But you've been adding it, faithfully, for years. Lucky you. But it's piling up, isn't it? The link below will illustrate how 'nitrogen only' will use up excess phosphorus by making things grow. Same is true (I presume) of the potash. But you've got to switch to 'nitrogen only' for a couple of seasons, just to get the excess of the other two elements used up. Don't add anything else. Whatever it is, hey, you've got more than you need. I'm going to leave it to you to figure out what's most practical for your situation in the 'nitrogen only' department. It might be urea (my first thought), and it might not. I don't have your problems. I've got a few of my own. And let's get to some good advice for you. I don't see any sense in your purchasing anything labeled 'Scotts', or anything labeled "Miracle Gro". Those things are designed (quite correctly) for my brother. He put some fertilizer down, about five years ago, and he might do it again, this year, if he thinks about it, because the neighbor made some comment (quite restrained, actually) about that lawn. And how we want this neighborhood to look. You know the rest. Don't add anything to your garden. Whatever you need, hey, it's there, isn't it? Perhaps too much. Produce what it is that you're going to produce. After you produce it, do another soil test. Add what you need, and don't add what you don't need. And let us know how it turns out.

I also thought that lettuce was shallow rooted until I read this. LETTUCE < The development of the root system during the intervening period of 4 weeks was remarkable (Fig. 94). The taproots had extended their depths from about 3.5 feet to the 6- to 7.5-foot level. As before, however, relatively few long branches originated below the first 10 inches. The large laterals, which formerly had reached a depth of only about 2 feet, now extended well into the fourth foot of soil. Some occupied the fifth foot also, and a few of the longest reached a depthof over 6 feet. That growth was still occurring was shown by the long, unbranched, turgid root ends. The number of branches filling the soil was much greater than formerly and sublaterals were much more abundant. The total spread, however, had not been increased since the preceding examination. Thus a volume of soil, with a surface area of over 9 square feet and a depth of at least 5 feet-nearly 50 cubic feet-was thoroughly ramified by the roots of a single plant.> ROOT DEVELOPMENT OF VEGETABLE CROPS

SOP's fine to go down on damp grass, and you can do it now if you want. Really, you're barely off-cycle for an app I scheduled for October 15th. Always read my dates as "somewhere kind of around this date if that's convenient for you." We can always revise the schedule if things really get off-track. Bermuda doesn't require heavy synthetic winterization and the process can actually cause damage the following spring and summer. Greening's unlikely at this point if growth has slowed significantly. However, I don't recommend keeping soybean meal (or any grain) around over the winter as the stuff is a beacon to mice and other less-pleasant rodents. Lighter organic winterization practices won't harm Bermuda, so I'd put it down. If you have shrubs, gardens, or trees, this stuff would also be very good for them at this point in the season as well. I dropped my last organics on October first (in Pennsylvania), being very certain to strike the Thuja, lilacs, trees, and other shrubs with the stuff pretty heavily.