Keeping cut apples from discoloring - need advice
6 years ago
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New Home, 72 apple trees, and need advice, please!
Comments (73)Nice photo Kendra. Your 1st picture looks like the beginnings of South West injury. To stop this from getting worse paint your tree with a flat white interior latex paint in a 50/50 water to paint ratio. Heres a link if you have any questions. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qJtVd2k_lI With so many trees I would go to a big box store. Tell them what you are doing. Ask them to put a half gallon of interior white flat latex paint in a one gallon bucket. When you get home fill it the rest of the way with water and shake it up and you are ready to go. Most of your trees look like someone had tried to prune them into a Delayed Open Center form which is fine. However the work on some of them was never completed or they were left to do their own thing and the trees have been neglected for along time. There certainly is a lot of pruning that needs to be done. There is also more than one way to go about it depending on what form you ultimately want the trees to take. Here is a link that may be helpful but is not directed at older neglected trees. It will however give you some ideas that may be helpful and has good descriptions of each tree form. http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/ag29.html I see lots of advice and people trying to tell you what you should do. I dont think we are that point yet. There are at least three basic tree forms you should be considering. Each with its own advantages and disadvantages. They all have their merits and only you can decide which one is right for you and your family. A few things to keep in mind.. You do not have to prune them all the same form. Even if you decide to train them all to the same form you do not need to do them all at once. Apples are usually trained to one of three forms. They are "Central Leader" "Open Center" and sometimes "Delayed Open Center" You should read the descriptions from the link I provided above as I will not be describing them in any detail here. Instead I will give my personal take on what I think are important to the home orchardist and your trees in particular. Central Leader Trees trained to this form are tall Christmas tree shaped trees. They have good fruit production. The disadvantage is that they are tall which makes spraying, picking and pruning harder as you will need ladders and long reach pickers. The trees that look like they were left to their own designs from the start may be a good candidate for this form. Not that you cannot train these trees to either of the other two forms but this may be the easiest and quickest form to achieve with these trees. To do this you would start by cutting any dead or diseased wood then move on the crossing branches that rub. After this cut any branches with bad crotch angles then cut any wood that is growing toward the center of the tree. The next step would be to thin out the branches to let in light and air. You dont want to have scaffold branches all attached at the same pint on the trunk. If you can have them spaced vertically on the trunk 6" or more apart and branching off in different directions. Open Center/Vase Trees trained to this form have less production than the other two forms. However this form has other advantages. They are much shorter which makes them easy to prune, easy to pick and easy to spray and easy to inspect for diseases and infestations. I see none of your trees pruned to this form. If you were going to change to this form you would have to severely top your trees and you would not get any fruit the first season. With trees the size you have there would be some debate whether you should top them in one radical cut or over two seasons. If you chose this form and the trees are still dormant I think I would go with the more radical approach on the smaller trees. On the larger trees I would cut off all the small twigs and cut the current scaffold branches back severely to like 2-3 out from the trunk. The following year I would cut the trunk at 24"-30" from the ground. If it were me I would do this with the smaller trees in one cut while still dormant. If you chose to do that there is nothing wrong with doing only 1-5 trees the 1st year. That way you can see the results and how the trees respond and learn the pruning steps and how they shape the trees before doing more of them in proceeding years. Delayed Open Center The majority of your trees are trained to this form and you may wish to keep this form. If it were me I would keep this form on all the larger trees that are currently in this form. They still need a lot of pruning though. Start by cutting all the dead wood then move on to cutting the crossing branches that are rubbing against other branches or that may rub when it gets windy. Always preferring the larger healthier branches so long as they are not 50% or larger than 50% of the trunks diameter where they are attached. Then move onto cutting water sprouts and any wood growing toward the center of the tree. After this cut any branches that will shade out other branches preferring the branches that have better crotch angles. Then cut out any small branches or wood that is necessary to allow for good air flow and light penetration and you are done. Remember if you have to cut something because of a bad crotch angle or because its shading out a lower branch or because its diseased it does not mean new branches will not grow to replace them. This is the beauty of pruning. The pruning you do will spur more growth and more branches will grow. Cutting out a bad one will often cause many more to grow and you can then cut off the ones with bad crotch angles or that will rub or shade other branches and keep the best new ones next pruning season. Its all a learning experience and you will get better and faster at it as years go by. Most of the good videos are on Open Center pruning but there are others. If you would like I will post some of the better pruning videos I have found if you think you will have time to view them....See MoreNeed pruning advice - keep cutting?
Comments (10)Flower buds for rhododendron are set in summer to late summer, none bloom on current growth.... I think I would have gone about the pruning differently and started with the lower spindly branches, then reduced the height. In theory (and certainly here where its mild and rhododendrons grow so easily) you can cut them down to a few inches and healthy established plants will resprout and grow. But that's not without risk, and it's easily a couple of years before your shrub is attractive and blooming again. I would go ahead and remove some of those lower whippy and crossing branches, or at least cut them back, improve the shape you've left. With rhododendron, their growth buds form in the leaf axils (where leaf joins stem). If you are making minor repairs to shape, cut just above a leaf rosettes and new growth will emerge form the dormant eyes there. If you have to cut into a branch below any leaf rosettes, look for faint rings on the bark which mark where there once were leaves. Careful inspection should reveal small bumps - the dormant growth buds just under the bark. Cut just above those faint rings if you can find them so the dormant buds will be stimulated into growth. If you cannot find them, make your cuts where you must, you may have to go back later and cut bare stubs down to new growth once that has taken place. It will take about a month for dormant buds to begin to grown on smaller limbs, up to 10 weeks for heavier main stems. While winter pruning is possible in mild climates, there's really no advantage to it with an evergreen plant. You're a Z4? Winter pruning rhododendron is not recommended in your zone but rather Spring and you are approaching being late for pruning now. You want to give new growth the longest possible growing and maturing season before the onset of cold weather again, also winter cold damage is more severe around pruning wounds than on unpruned parts of the plant - it's not appropriate for colder climates....See Morestarting apple tree from cuttings
Comments (6)If it's laying on the ground, maybe you could pile some wood shavings or sawdust over some small limbs and let it root while attached to the tree. Keep it moist. May need to wound the limbs and dust on some rooting hormone. I know that to make rootstock people will plant seedlings and heap sawdust around the base to cause "stooling"...when rooted those suckers are severed from the parent tree and bench grafted to make new trees for orchard plantings. If I were you, and knew anyone who could graft, I would get them to graft some on an existing apple tree to prevent the loss of this old variety....See MoreCutting my ming aralia to keep it alive - advice needed
Comments (0)Hi All, I'm looking for advice on how to cut this ming aralia. I've lost most branches off the main large tall stem and I'm not an expert but pretty sure I need to chop the main stem down to save it. The only foliage left on the main stem is the piece you see at the top. I would also like to grow the plant outward more.Where would I chop this thing? I've been told at the base however also have been advised to cut it higher and that might spur new growth out of the main stem. What's the process? Is it possible to replant the stem after chopping it (perhaps beside the existing plant to grow together)? It kind of seems like this large stem is taking all the energy from the rest of the plant, as the other areas seem to be struggling again recently. A bit of background on this plant: I've had it for around 12 years or so, from 5in high to now. Throughout most of it's life, the plant seemed healthy, growing tall, full and bountiful with many branches. However around a year and a half ago it started shedding significantly (http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/3679859/help-with-beloved-ming-aralia?n=12). Now the plant is around 10% of what it was in terms of branches. However it is very tall. It seems to die off, then grow a bit, then die off again... recently mostly dying. I repotted it a month or two back, afterwhich it sprouted 5 or so new branches, however has since been on the decline. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Cheers......See More- 6 years ago
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- 6 years agolast modified: 6 years agobbstx thanked sleevendog (5a NY 6aNYC NL CA)
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