Keeping cut apples from discoloring - need advice
6 years ago
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Dark discoloration damage on apple limb
Comments (10)Thank you. I am going over to look under the bark tomorrow. I really hope it's not the fireblight because I was reading that that is hopeless to deal with. If it is I was wondering if I should pick off all the flowers on my little tree just to play it safe and paint it as well. I don't care if I get any apples yet just as long as my tree lives. The tree in the other yard has damage down low and it seems to me sunburn in that case would be unlikely. This reminds me of when fuchsia mite was going through the neighborhood and killed all my huge plants that I trained into standards over 12 years. It really hurt seeing them die but I wasn't going to risk poisoning the hummingbirds that were spreading the disease. After a number of years, the sick plants in the neighborhood all died off and I am starting over again....See MorePruning advice needed for young apple tree
Comments (3)I suggest you pinch back all but your leading bud at top of tree to maintain central leader and the dominance of the bud going most straight. You can let the rest of the tree grow for now as long as nothing threatens the dominance of the leader....See MoreApple Expert Advice Needed
Comments (15)Applenut, IMHO I would not use seedling rootstocks. They are unpredictable and don't have the drought tolerance and climate adaptability that MM-111 provides. In Santa Cruz county, MM111 is the preferred rootstock because under dry conditions, growth won't shut down. With other rootstocks, adverse weather conditions can shut down growth and it's much harder to get the tree going again. I have had very poor luck with seedling rootstocks in my poor soil and southwest facing hillside that cooks up to 100F in the Summertime. MM111 will generally overtake a seedling in no time. Antonovka seedlings have been especially terrible for me, they don't take well to dry sandy soil. Also, a number of local growers have noticed that MM111 seems to lower overall chill requirements for many cultivars. I don't know how this works, and why it does, suffice to say MM111 has proven itself in our milder climate. If you really need a low chill vigorous rootstock, then you might want to root Northern Spy, this is one of the parents of MM111, and it's quite vigorous, and cuttings will actually root. It should have some similar traits to MM111 except be much more vigorous. Variety wise, I think Anna and Dorsett Golden are good choices, but I've always been curious about the "truly tropical" apples, e.g. those that require a super long growing season to ripen, and will not ripen well in shorter season climates. The varieties that come to mind are all from the Southern hemisphere, and include Granny Smith, Lady Williams, Sundowner, and perhaps even pink lady, one of the only apples in my backyard that doesn't get sunburned. These varieties seem to not be very sensitive to lack of chill accumulation. I believe Granny Smith even came from Sydney surroundings, where the climate is as mild as coastal Southern California, but with humid Summers. Around here, Granny Smith ripens as yellow table apples in mid January along with Pink lady, followed by Lady Williams in early Febuary, and then Sundowner a bit later. The trees defoliate here just as the apples ripen. The only drawback of the longer season varieties when grown in the tropics is that you have to get them through the rainy season with fruits on them, not a good prospect when it comes to disease, but maybe some of them are disease resistant. The trouble with Anna and Dorsett golden is that they are disease prone in humid climates, so one would need to breed in resistance into low chill cultivars. You may want to post to the Cloudforest at www.cloudforest.com/cafe/, there are a bunch of tropical fruit growers there that also grow apples in some of the mildest parts of California, Australia and New Zealand. There are lots of discussions there about low chill apple cultivars....See MoreAdvice needed: olive tree from cuttings
Comments (2)Have not tried olive but I have done lots of cuttings. I would say that right now would be an excellent time. Select branches that grew fast, and all this last year. (one year old wood.) I like to prepare the cutting before I actually cut it. In this case, remove all but 3 to 5 leaves, leaving only a very few at the tip. Do this a day or 2 before cutting. This way the tree can provide the sap to help heal the leaf breaks, instead of taking strength from the new cutting. If you can find some really vigorous growth that grew all last year, (all in one year, usually a lighter or more green color) you can do the cuttings without leaves at the tip and will probably have better success. Nice thick stem branches are the best. Take cuttings about 8 inches long. Be sure that you will have at least 2 (3 is better) nodes below ground and at least 2 above ground. Use a rooting hormone, like Rotenone (not sure I spelled that right) and lightly powder the part that will go in the ground, about 4 inches worth, with at least 2 nodes. Plant in good potting mix. I like to plant at a little angle, not sticking straight up, as this seems to give the cutting a better rooting start. Give a warm sunny place, making sure the potting soil does not get soggy or dry out. When days are a little too hot, sprinkle with cool water to keep them from scorching. Let us know how it turns out, and good luck....See More- 6 years ago
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- 6 years agolast modified: 6 years agobbstx thanked sleevendog (5a NY 6aNYC NL CA)
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