I was hoping to borrow it to cut some long pencil-type pieces out of the wall tile to finish off the mosaic running around the room, but he did point out to me that the edge that the cutter makes is sharp to the point of dangerous, and not at all smoothed like it is with a tile saw. I'm wondering if I could just edge the pieces with a polisher but cut them with the Ishii (I couldn't find that thread,but I did check in on the mighty mighty 'craziest custom tile job' thread--I love that it just keeps growing :))? I have trouble getting the carriage on the 10" saw really straight enough for long pieces (24"). I might just make 12" slices instead. Not sure which method would be best, but I have definitely discovered another thing to check c's list for now :)

Okay. First, I'll tell you right now, that pan definitely has to come out. As you were told, you don't have to take the entire walls out, although I have a feeling you may want to once you start. The reason is that bathrooms installed back in the mid sisties were installed with one of two things-- either thickbed mortar (mud job), or mastic over sheetrock. Now, the mastic used back then isn't like the mastic used today. It was solvent based, and believe me when I till you, it could hold train cars together. The problem was it didn't do anything to help the sheetrock, and as a result, if this is how your shower was put together, there's a chance the only thing holding the tile up is the grout. If it's thickbed mortar, 9 times out of 10, it would take a stick of dynamite to pull the shower apart, and it's usually just easier to take whole wall sections out, rather than trying to "surgically remove" sections without hurting the remaining sections. See what you have. Once you get into it, you'll have a better idea of what kind of shape it's in, and how far you need to go. But be prepared, just in case. I just redid one two weeks ago, and what started out as just the pan and 2 courses esnded up as a full gut and replacement.

Your insights @J D and @thinkdesignlive were invaluable last year. Before I jump in too deep, I'm curious if you consult on interior design / bathroom finish decisions. I'm not sure how to go about messaging privately. Here's the update: not much, other than me being a basket-case. We held off the whole project because of Covid and now are slated to begin our 2 bathroom project in January/February. I'm not sure if it was clear in previous posts, but there are 2 bathrooms at hand; the new one that's being added (let's call that one GREEN- it was the focus of the previous posts) as well as the existing one that will be completely gutted and redone (and let's call that one BLUE). I'll add BLUE's plans below--if you think I should start a new thread for it, please advise! OVERALL ISSUE: I don't have a vision for the finishes of either bathroom. I'm more settled on GREEN (see the "board and batten" post for inspiration and drawing--but we will not do a wall-hung toilet). The vision for BLUE is more ambiguous. So, I need to decide on: - tile: manufacturer, layout, etc - medicine cabinets (want a large mirror but a craftsman look) - wood vs white vanity (they will be custom- I'm leaning towards wood for GREEN and white for BLUE) - vanity top (which will be shower curb in GREEN and bathtub ledge in BLUE, too, right?) - faucets - lights/sconces - sink (maybe as easy as Kohler Caxton in both) Re TILE: I couldn't commit to Fireclay tile because I thought the minimum grout was too wide. I also heard a few concerning stories. I've recently requested samples from American Restoration Tile and will go look at Mission Tile West in person next week. I'm open to other manufactures, too. I know that: - we want a small hex floor in both baths; for the green bath this will extend into the shower - we want to have a color element (hence the "green" and "blue") in both baths - we will probably go with a 4x4" wall tile in both baths, though undecided - I love trim pieces but also am concerned about $$$ Houzzers, if you have advise on how to go about creating a vision, making decisions, what to prioritize (I know with supply chain issues, everything is a priority!), or something else, I welcome it. Thank you!! Here's the BLUE plan...not committed to the tile as shown:

Don’t be under the illusion that a code inspector knows tile standards, or cares about them. They don’t inspect tile. They inspect rough plumbing, if a plumbing permit was pulled. That may or may not include a flood test. Most places, don’t do flood tests. They don’t have the time. That doesn’t mean that a contractor shouldn’t do one. Just that you’re not getting an inspector out to view things that aren’t required to be viewed. They have their hands full inspecting the drainage for the new subdivision that backs up the sewage in the neighborhood next door. No amount of after the fact second guessing makes up for the lack of hiring the qualified person on the front end, and having a detailed contract with that person. Without the right contractor, even a detailed contract is worthless. other than it protects you from a lien for firing for cause.