Hi,

Pls post another pic of the whole plant, as I don't believe it's a Pothos. Maybe it's the angle of the pic, but the leaf is too oblong for Pothos, which leaves tend tend to be rounder & more heart shaped. Pothos don't have those subtle ridges in the leaves, even if looking at the back like this.

That said, don't know what the stuff is, if only on one leaf, I'd remove the leaf, if on more than one, I might inspect it very closely for bugs & maybe even unpot it to check the roots.

I’ve never seen a pothos leaf like that but could be the angle also ive never seen marks like that on a pothos and my housemate has 4 different kinds one of which is 30+ years old (according to them)

It is on several leaves and I have checked for bugs but I do not see any.

Ok yea that’s definitely a pothos is it possible you over watered? That’s the only thing I can think of

Thank you for your reply! I only water it once a week on Fridays. Do you know if the plant gets to cold if it would do something like that? Our office building turns the air system off on weekends but I have had this plant for 3 or 4 years.

Well pothos usually are pretty hardy but it might want to be a little babied right now I know my house mate her 30 year old one started sprouting all these yellow leaves and she hadn’t moved it she just needed to give it a bit of a trim and a drink since hers was dry and it bounced back personally i would cut the leaves off that have the brown or just the areas of the leaves that have brown but I wouldn’t be too concerned pothos plants are forgiving they just get a little touchy every few years

HaHa! Thank you so much!

No problem!!!

The spots are scars left by a physiological disorder called oedema. See the short piece I wrote below, which explains the cause and how to keep it from happening.

Oedema

Oedema is a physiological disorder that can affect
all plants. It occurs when the plant takes up more water than it can
rid itself of via the process of transpiration. The word itself means
'swelling', which is usually the first symptom, and comes in the form
of pale blisters or water-filled bumps on foliage. Under a variety of
circumstances/cultural conditions, a plant's internal water pressure
(turgidity) can become so high that some leaf cells rupture and leak
their contents into inter-cellular spaces in leaf tissue, creating
wet or weepy areas. Symptoms vary by plant, but as the malady
progresses, areas of the leaf turn yellow, brown, brown with reddish
overtones or even black, with older damage appearing as corky/ scaly/
ridged patches, or wart/gall-like bumpy growth. Symptoms are seen
more frequently in plants that are fleshy, are usually more
pronounced on the underside of leaves, and older/lower leaves are
more likely to be affected than younger/upper leaves.

Oedema is most common in houseplants during the
winter/early spring months, is driven primarily by excessive water
retention in the soil, and can be intensified via several additional
cultural influences. Cool temperatures, high humidity levels, low
light conditions, or partial defoliation can individually or
collectively act to intensify the problem, as can anything else that
slows transpiration. Nutritional deficiencies of Ca and Mg are also
known contributors to the malady.

Some things that can help you prevent oedema:

* Increase light levels and temperature

* Monitor water needs carefully – avoid
over-watering. I'd heartily recommend a soil with drainage so sharp
(fast) that when you to water to beyond the saturation point you
needn't worry about prolonged periods of soil saturation wrecking
root health/function. Your soil choice should be a key that unlocks
the solutions to many potential problems.

* Avoid misting or getting water on foliage. It
slows transpiration and increases turgidity.

* Water as soon as you get up in the AM. When
stomata close in preparation for the dark cycle, turgidity builds. If
you water early in the day, it gives the plant an opportunity to
remove (for its own needs) some of the excess water in the soil.

* Put a fan in the room or otherwise increase air flow/circulation.
Avoid over-crowding your plants.

Al

Does the container have drainage holes?

Good question. That attached drainage saucer is not the grower's friend, even if it is convenient. Plants should not be allowed to sit/rest in the effluent that exits the drain holes after watering. Best not to allow any pathway by which the effluent can make its way back into the soil.

This might be helpful.

Al

I believe watering once a week is going to be way too much for that large of a pot. Probably could even go longer than two weeks in winter.