IMO the coffee maker , the MW should be where they are used and on the counter. In my kitchen all my lower cabinets are drawers and I store my Nija, waffle maker toaster and food scale in a wide drawer . What I often do for clients is pullout panries beside the fridge on for food and one for all those appliances and also less used ones in a cuboard above the pantries. In your size kitchen that is probably the best . I would need to see your floor plan in a to scale drawing marking all windows doors and entry. Also the size of your dining table and how many seats you need on a daily basis. My kitchen is larger so not a good example but all lower drawers works everywhere and with arthritis are a must IMO.

Small kitchens can be a challenge to get everything into but with some imagination can be quite nice spaces to work in.

Counter space is a premium in your space, so I'd put all I can in base cabinets or uppers. We have Ikea cabinets that have deep-drawer configurations, so my toaster, crockpot are in drawers. My mother-in-law just got a hand-held can opener, so maybe that is a countertop appliance you can swap out for a smaller version.

A small walk in pantry seems right. put a small sink there. Crock pots can simmer away . And be washed there. They are not super heavy so can be stored in any cab really or on open cabinet shelves but in use they occupy space as a spoon will rest there....occas dribbles and splashes etc. and the heat emits from the device. I like them but not In The middle of everything for 8 or 10 hrs. Rice cooker in a w in-pantry as well

All of my appliances are put away, except for the coffee pot, which stays on the counter because it's used daily. Granted, I have a large kitchen with lots of space. Everything is stored in drawers in my lower cabinets or in an appliance garage... basically a large cabinet with a pull out drawer (waist-high) and 3 adjustable shelves that are no higher than shoulder height.

Have you thought about consolidating? When was the last time you needed all those slow cookers and crockpots? If you can build a pantry, I would definitely store the less-used appliances in there. I would take a look at your cabinet elevation (assuming you have one) and think about what you would store in each drawer and cabinet. It's a time consuming exercise but crucial if space is at a premium.

@Shannon_WI I potentially could cull the insta-pot. I've actually had times when I've had every single crock-pot running. As far as families go - my house is the biggest house between my family in the area and my boyfriend's family in the area. If "everyone" in driving distance between our two families were to show up, in addition to my family of 3, there would be another 10 adults and 4 more kids, for a total of 17 people. Realistically though, a likely scenario (which we've had before) would be 8 more adults and 2 more kids, for a total of 10 adults and 3 kids. When that happened, it was difficult, cramped, people had to split off from the dining room to sit either in a living room with a plate on their lap or eat standing up in the existing kitchen. Not fun, and no one is anxious to repeat it that - so it means people either not showing up or showing up but eating in shifts - neither of which scenario is family-oriented. I'm also a scout leader, and since most meetings are at my house. I'd have to think about maybe re-homing the regular blender - it's easier to use than the Ninja, but the Ninja also doubles as a food processor.

Consider replacing these:

Electric can opener: 5"w * 4"d * 8"h
> Replace with a manual opener that fits in a drawer, or a wall-mounted opener.

@bens bride I was figuring that deep base cabinetry would be where I store the various pots, pans, food storage, flatware, and my more frequently-used cutting boards/sheet pans. And possibly an every-day plate/bowl storage drawer, as well as other stuff accessed daily, etc.

Until I finalize a new layout, currently my base cabinetry consists of: one 24" base cabinet, one 15" base cabinet, one 15" 4-drawer cabinet, and my sink base. I am hoping to get more base cabinetry in the future layout, but will also need to account for storing a full set of china and special-holiday flatware then as well.

Can you post a sketch of your dining/kitchen space as they are now? We can help with layout ideas. Just a simple drawing with dimensions including window and door locations is enough to get started.

Do you have a corner cabinet that could house a corner susan? They work well for small appliances b/c you just rotate and whatever you want is in front and ready for removal. I'd store the ones in your second category. (Corner susans also work well for pots & pans.)

I use a combination of drawers and my step-in pantry (along with food). I don't have nearly as many small appliances so, I don't need a dedicated "appliance pantry".

Do you also have a stand mixer (I didn't see it in your list)? I store mine on the counter in a corner with a cloth cover.

Upthread I meant to say that my mother in law just got a handheld electric can opener. She has arthritis and loves it.

Do you have a guest room? Can we customize the guest room closet to hold small appliances? Easier than the basement but out of the way.

We really need to see your floor plan to be of real help.

An appliance closet is a great idea. I have my blender and waffle iron in a pullout under the corner cabinet. It’s great storage and great use of the corner, but still not convenient to get to. I’d love to have an actual closet, like a linen closet, but si

designed for appliances. So easy!

Base cabinet and pantry roll-out trays make storage more user friendly.

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Definitely reduce your appliance numbers by getting rid of those that do the same thing.

I think I need to take my advice and cull my appliances when I get home.

Stick to drawers. Roll out tray shelves (ROTS) are not as user-friendly for the majority of storage.

However, if you currently have cabinets with stationary shelves (maybe the 24" is that way?), then you could retro-fit ROTSs to make them easier to use. But, in your new build, use drawers!

CDC: I think I need to take my advice and cull my appliances when I get home.

Easier said than done ;-)

I feel better if I think of it as judicious editing.

Best wishes to you Helaurin, keep your eyes on your future improved kitchen.

Here's a snippy of a visio layout - in this, the wall between the kitchen and dining room is removed.

Where does the door to the left go? Garage?

@auntthelma Unfortunately, there are only 3 bedrooms in the house. One is our "master bedroom". It has a typical six-foot wide reach-in closet that isn't large enough to hold all of the clothes that should be hung up between my boyfriend and I. So the third bedroom, which has an even smaller reach-in closet (4' wide) doubles as extra storage for some of my clothing, as well as my teen daughter's. This bedroom is small, and we primarily use it for the cats (cat beds, cat tree, water and feeding stations, cat food (wet and dry) storage, cat litter and litter pan(s).

One could argue that I have too many clothes; but some are purpose specific as well as seasonal (Girl Scout stuff, 4-H stuff, equestrian stuff, gardening/painting clothing, business casual for the office, and business formal clothing for client meetings, and everyday clothing as well). As it is, there isn't enough space for clothing nor linens (towels, throw blankets, etc.)

@THOR, Son of ODIN We have a manual can opener by the dogs' area, as an emergency back-up. I prefer to use the electric opener in general, but especially when arthritis flares up.

Do you have the product information for either of the scales you posted? I'm pretty sure my existing one would fit in a drawer (if we had space in a drawer, that is) but it's the kind of thing that I'd rather usually keep out to remind me to make smart choices about food amounts. No matter what, I'd still want to be able to put it on a counter, make sure it's level, put a plate on it and then put my food for weighing.

@bens bride that door to the left goes to the patio. Which is why the traffic flow in our kitchen absolutely sucks - people have to come through the kitchen and cross it diagonally to get to the patio.

@Buehl Yes, the 24" cabinet (which is often blocked by the door to the patio) has one drawer (for everyday flatware) and then an open cavity with a half-depth shelf. I'm not sure it's worth trying to put in a roll-out shelf (though I love them) in there - that cabinet doesn't have solid sides.

Can you exchange the swinging door for a slider? it might help with your space plan.

Here's a suggestion for an eat-in kitchen layout. The fridge and range are a bit farther apart than the recommended minimum, so I wouldn't scoot them any farther away from each other. You can use the header for the existing dining room window for the window above the sink, but I eliminated the existing kitchen window for the range area.

@Creative Design Cabinetry I like both roll-out shelves and drawers, depending on what needs to go in them.

My thought though is with these appliances, I'd potentially end up buying a lot of base cabinets just to store these. For example, the 3-dish slow cooker is 22.25" wide. The cabinet for that would probably need to be 27" wide since space is lost for the cabinet frame, drawer/roll-out hardware, etc. And since it takes up 11" in depth, that would likely leave only 6" of space depth-wise. Meaning none the other small appliances would fit on the same shelf/drawer.

There's a lot of space that seems to be lost (whether drawers or roll-out shelves) when using them for large, bulky items. A 24" deep cabinet might only get 15"-17" of drawer depth, for example, and a 15" wide cabinet might only get 10"-11" of drawer width. Which is why I'm leaning towards a built-in pantry/appliance closet with longer shelves (less wasted space, and I suspect easier on the wallet).

And again - my significant other wants the floor cleaning stuff (broom, steam vacuum) kept in the kitchen as well.

Use whatever can opener works best with arthritis. There are some nifty new ones, along with the crank operated versions.

The new digital scales are accurate and easy to use, along with being small and inexpensive. I like the Etekcity (for $9; 7 x 0.7 x 5.5 inches) as It slips upright between canisters on a shelf between uses. Take it down, press the tare (zero) button, weigh. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Multifunction-Stainless-Batteries-Included/dp/B0113UZJE2

The scales with pull out displays are pricier and a tad larger, but might be easier to measure food on a larger plate. https://www.amazon.com/OXO-1157100-Digital-Scale-Black/dp/B0020L6T7K/

@bens bride I wish I could use a slider instead of a swing-in door, but unfortunately, it won't work. The space behind the existing bench (where it would make sense for a slider) is occupied by the chimney for the wood-burning fireplace in the family room below.

And since there's very little natural light as it is - I believe we need to keep the existing windows as windows, to meet the building code requirement relative to window/natural light vs. floor square footage.

My pantry is 45 x 45, is five 15 inch deep shelves plus the floor. Don't have a filled up photo but I keep 14 appliances including a 6 qt crockpot, 2 blenders, a turbo oven, large electric skillet, 1 qt crock, electric can opener, griddle, espresso maker, coffee maker,waffle iron+ in there. Best use of a corner ever! Layout all your appliances in a row, measure the length of the row, divide by 5 or 6 and voila' you have what you need.

You should consider more drawers, fewer shelves to gain maximum storage.

Do you have a closet that can be outfitted for storage?

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Add convenient drawers and pullouts

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Here's a quick change with a bigger window. If your utility closet is in that corner behind the swinging door, there shouldn't be much conflict between the two.

If you don't take a lot of food directly from fridge to range, the extra distance might not be noticeable. I think the 4-9 foot rule is most important to follow when it comes to distance from sink.

@decoenthusiaste that pantry photo actually was one of several that inspired my idea for a pantry/appliance closet. I figure that the space where the current 24" cabinet and dishwasher are - that's not super-friendly because of the way the door is being used. I can't count how many times I've been down on the floor trying to dig around in the base of that cabinet, and someone has thrown the door open because they didn't see me. Converting that corner into a reach-in pantry/appliance closet could give me 44" interior on the back wall, and 32" on the side wall interior. I'm thinking I would use the space above the highest shelf and put in vertical storage for sheet pans, roasters, etc.

Fixed shelves for base cabinets generally are useless I'm not sure if I understand the difference in space usage/savings between roll-out shelves vs. drawers though.

Here's another good one for appliances

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@decoenthusiaste I saw that one too! If I were to use the current bench location and create a "built-in wall" there - then I could use a barn-door type of thing. It looks awesome. I'm not sure that I want to do that though, because while 20'7" seems long for a kitchen - I am hoping to have a sit-at kitchen island.

I figure if the right-most 13' wall has 2' depth cabinets, and then allow for 3.5' of aisle walkway at a minimum, and then a short run base cabinet paralleling that 13' wall (4' long and 2' deep cabinets) - that takes up at least 8.5' of that 20'7". If I then run a narrower island parallel to the 20' wall, and want to leave at least 4' from the wall where the bench is to the end of that possible island - that takes up at least 12.5' of the space, but leaves me with potentially as much as 8' of an island for seating.

I saw an island at a local store that gave me hope for this - they used 2' base cabinet, and then had a 10" or 12" overhang on each side for sitting.

I'm not sure if I'm describing this well. Let me try again... the island I saw looked like a flat table/dining surface. For this example, let's say that the island top was 4'x10'. On one of the 4' sides, there were a couple of base cabinets. That uses up 2' of the 10'. On the other 4' short end, there was also an overhang of about one foot, where a under-counter stool could be placed if someone wanted to sit there. So that would leave 7' of the island, where they ran a single row of 2' deep base cabinets right down the center. Obviously, the thought for this is to store less-frequently-used items, while lending support/structure for the island and providing enough space for as many as 7 or 8 people to sit if needed (7 if someone is on the end, or 8 if no one is on the end).

And width-wise, that might just work in a 13' wide kitchen. Figure 4' countertop for the island, 2' for the one perimeter wall countertop, that's 6' accounted for, leaving 7' to be divided up between the two long sides. I'm thinking if the seating is under-counter stools, then if no one is sitting there - plenty of walk through space.

@bens bride what program are you using? It looks pretty neat. Would you mind trying some changes on the plan to see how I'm thinking might work?

From left corner, back wall:

1. 3' deep, 4' wide built-in pantry/appliance closet.

2. 4' wide built-in bench under existing window.

3. Base cabinetry -

A. drawers - total of 4.5' in width

B. 2' dishwasher

C. 3' sink base

D. 3' corner lazy susan

4. Wall cabinetry on back wall, starting at about 8' from rear left corner, to the next window and leaving a little bit of space for a reveal around each window, gives a max wall cabinet length of 61", but 57" would look better.

A. Wall cabinet with a microwave shelf, needs to accommodate 22" wide microwave... so maybe 24" wide cabinet?

B. Wall cabinet(s) making up the remaining 33" (57- 24 = 33).

C. Existing window as is...

D. that leaves on the back wall, right corner, enough space for a 24" corner wall cabinet, mirroring the lazy susan base cabinet below.

On right side wall, base:

1. 36" corner lazy susan (the same as noted in item 3D above). That leaves 10' of space to work with on this base wall.

2. 18" drawer base cabinetry

3. 2.5 ' range/stove

4. 18" base cabinetry

5. 3' refrigerator width

6. 18" pull-out pantry - floor to ceiling/tall cabinet

On right side wall, uppers to the ceiling, starting from back right corner:

1. 24" diagonal corner (same one as in 4D above)

2. 30" upper cabinetry

3. 30" range hood (could be "statement hood" or range hood with cabinetry above)

4. 18" upper cabinetry

5. 36" above refrigerator cabinet

6. the same 18" pull-out pantry mentioned just above

Then a 4'x10' island, anchored by 4' of base cabinets facing towards the stove and refrigerator, and with a 7' row of 24" deep base cabinets down the center of the island

I use Ikea's planner. You can give it a try at https://kitchenplanner.ikea.com/us/UI/Pages/VPUI.htm

I think home depot and lowes also have online kitchen planning programs

I suggest an appliance purge, too. Many can go in deep bottoms drawers - that's where my Cuisinart and rice maker live. Hand mixer is in a drawer. On my countertops, I have my Breville toast oven, a small microwave (used nearly daily), my KA mixer and my electric kettle. I got rid of the electric can opener decades ago - it was always nasty.

In the end, it's a kitchen and there will be appliances.

Two things about your list above. 1) I could be wrong, but when I add up the widths it seems you've overestimated in both directions. 2) If you have sincere concerns about storage space, why would you give up almost 20 cubic feet to a bench?

ETA one more thing... the optimum layout goes fridge - dishwasher - sink - range with ideally 3-5 feet between sink and range because that's your primary prep space. Eighteen inches between range and fridge would be a major compromise on function in a kitchen this size.

You can recess a broom cabinet into a wall.

following

Kitchen Walk in Closet Pantry

shelving

Deeper bottom cabinets with pullout for heavy items counter for everyday item access

A walk in pantry option
with deeper cabinets with counter for easier access to heavier appliances.

Reach in pantry closet.
decoenthusiaste posted a nice closet with barn doors earlier.

or

Skinny deep pantry closet with pullouts

The other option is cabinets & built in storage

Be careful not to get too wide pullouts, because they can get heavy. 30" wide is my personal max.

If there's an appliance want to use often & it's heavy, an appliance lift may help.

video shows how easy it is to use

https://youtu.be/mrPc2FWwuZo

When storing big heavy appliances try to store the most used ones at arm reach level without bending too much. That is why having a closet with counter to grab those heavy things & use them there or can move into kitchen without bending too much is ideal.

Also, appliance garages with counter under with doors that can get out of way to use within. Make sure there's enough counter space 1st then left over room to go down to counters.

Design according to reach for every day used items to be stored.

If lifting is an issue, store left over room for heavier items.

Light items up higher.

Rarely used items lower. Pullouts or drawers suggested at lowest points.

Why don't you make the 13' wall with 3' wide counters and and have deeper lower cabinets and a false wall behind the uppers with appliance garages built along the the whole wall. You still have 2' of counter depth and 1' behind the garage door for most of your small appliances that are not used every day. Having deeper cabinets also allows for extra storage, allows the refrigerator to sit back so it looks like counter depth without being counter depth. Deeper cabinets are not ideal storage as it is tough to get to the stuff in the back, but it does give storage space for items that are not often used.

Make sure that your corner cabinet is accessible - either built on an angle or minimally has the bi-fold door. Nothing more irritating than loosing 4 sq feet of storage space when you need the space.

I would also recommend that you go through your home and instead of trying to decide if you have too much clothing or unused appliances or unused dishes, pots, pans, things, you mark everything you don't use daily, wait one year and go through your home again.

I used a lot of small rubber bands. I place a tiny rubber band over the neck of each of my hangers - when I wore something the rubber band came off. I use two rubber bands on the cords of all of my appliances, when used one came off. I place socks, underwear in 1 gallon bags in the drawer. Once worn they didn't go back in the bag. I placed a small safety pin on other clothing was is in drawers and removed the safety pin when I wore the item. I placed my cleaning rags and slop towels in a box in my garage - moved them to their regular home when used. It was a big project to mark or bag every item in my home, but the next year I got rid of tons of stuff that was just taking up space that I didn't wear or use in the past year.

I marked everything - even hairbrushes, curling irons, makeup. I was also a book hoarder, but realized that I seldom re-read a book. I also had a bunch of cookbooks that I didn't use once in a full year. I now have 5 cookbooks and they are the ones that I actually use.

I now have empty drawers in my home. I don't use enough stuff to fill them and I can find and access those things that I really do use.

Perhaps it’s time to cull. For example, you have a crockpot, an Instapot, 3 small crockpots, and a 3-dish slow cooker. You have a regular blender and a Ninja blender.

This was one of my first thoughts too. With space at a premium, do bring out the similar small appliances and give them a good look-over. Shannon listed the very things I was going to say -- these things are similar.

I know you talked about using so many items when ALL the family comes over, but let me ask a couple questions about that:

- How often in the last year have ALL those people come over?

- If you hadn't had those crock pots, etc. available, could you have borrowed them from someone in the family (borrow 1-2 times a year rather than storing 363 days a year).

- If you hadn't had those crock pots, etc. available, could you have made different meal choices? For example, some things cooked in the oven?

Storing these things is a problem for you. Think through all your options.

A small walk in pantry seems right. put a small sink there. Crock pots can simmer away . And be washed there.

I was thinking the same thing ... not too sure about the sink though. It's an expensive choice and wouldn't be used all that often. And those large crock pots would still have to be carried out to the large sink in the main kitchen.

So, yeah, this is my vote for best choice.

Upthread I meant to say that my mother in law just got a handheld electric can opener. She has arthritis and loves it.

Just pointing out: More and more cans have pull-tops, so I find myself using the can opener less and less. Obviously, you'd never get rid of your can opener ... but maybe it doesn't deserve a front-and-center placement.

This picture gives me three thoughts:

- Definitely think about appliance weight. In this picture, I notice that the heavy Kitchen Aid and a deep fryer are stored on the top shelf. Getting these down would be difficult /potentially dangerous /and do think about that oil!

- I see a Kitchen Aid mixer here. Do consider that this company offers many attachments that take the place of other small appliances. For example, they make an ice cream maker attachment, which could eliminate that Cuisinart ice cream maker.

- I love that these shelves are adjustable. Small appliances come and go, and I like that the owner was able to go with one shallow shelf for cutting boards. Flexibility is a huge plus.

When storing big heavy appliances try to store the most used ones at arm reach level without bending too much. That is why having a closet with counter to grab those heavy things & use them there or can move into kitchen without bending too much is ideal.

Good advice. A related thought: For heavy items, you store a wheeled metal cart in the pantry /wheel it out when it's needed.

I would also recommend that you go through your home and instead of trying to decide if you have too much clothing or unused appliances or unused dishes, pots, pans, things, you mark everything you don't use daily, wait one year and go through your home again.

Good advice. I've been clearing things out, and I really haven't missed anything I've given away.

@Mrs Pete Actually, borrowing from family for large events isn't an option. When I consider the different family members by household... one is trying to get by on less than $550 month income for a family of 3. They have a single room they can all sleep in, and where they live, they are allowed to use the stovetop, but not the oven, and everything has to be stored in the room they live in, not the shared kitchen. Another of their family, rents another room there. The property owner there has been known to even rent out the floor of the dining room space (nothing in there) to people who just need a place to sleep without being exposed to the elements. Another household (brother & sister) are trying to negotiate to live in someone else's basement as a sub-lease of the current tenant. Out of the eight adults in those households, I think only one is working - and that is part-time only. All have medical issues. Storing items with any of them isn't an option, nor is borrowing. When I have everyone over, I try to accommodate a wide variety of tastes and preferences. The oven gets used extensively - the last Thanksgiving I hosted, for example, I made a ham in the oven first, followed by the 20+ pound turkey - because some want turkey, some want ham, some will only eat one or the other. Different soups, sauces, sides, vegetables. Having the various slow-cookers (especially the smaller ones) allows me to put turkey gravy, a brown-sugar ham sauce, split pea soup, french onion soup, green bean casserole, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, rice, and corn all kept warm for people to self-serve, while having stuffing and other items going on the stove-top.

As far as the can opener - it's small enough that if I ind we aren't using it daily, I'm sure I can find a place to store it in the future kitchen.

I'm thinking the Instant Pot is likely to be culled.

Definitely, putting heavier items towards waist-height and below is part of my plan.

I don't have a mixer of any type, and with what I have so far, don't see a need for it.

I definitely want the shelves to be adjustable. I'm thinking of going vertical (and high) for less-frequently used items such as lasagna pans, broilers, roasting pans, and over-sized cutting boards that I don't use frequently - most of them are pretty light-weight as well.

I think that both my boyfriend and I have a tendency to hang onto some things. For example, he still has a pair of working Commodore 64 computers from the early 1980's, as well as an estimated 1,400+ hardcover books. He's recently gone through some record albums that he hasn't listened to in over 12 years, and was able to part with perhaps 40% of them. So that's progress.

I still have my dad's original US Army-issued Field Manuals for WWII, printed in 1942-1943. I'll never need to service a WWII-era machine gun, or use the 1943 Army Baker's manual either... but those were my dad's and I'm not ready to toss them out in the trash. His service in the Pacific theater of WWII - including the Battle of Okinawa - was a pivotal period of his life. Those are things again that I would never "use" - but just am not ready to give the heave-ho to.

@Mrs Pete Actually, borrowing from
family for large events isn't an option. When I consider the different
family members by household... one is trying to get by on less than $550
month income for a family of 3 ...

None of this means they don't own a crock pot that can be borrowed a couple times each year. I had a crock pot when I was living in a college dorm. They sell for about $3 at Goodwill.

Overall, you're saying one thing (space is at a premium), but you're rationalizing why you cannot do anything except what you're already doing. Consider the ideas you've been given (not just by me) and see what changes you can make.

Definitely, putting heavier items towards waist-height and below is part of my plan ... I definitely want the shelves to be adjustable.

These are good plans.
I think that both my boyfriend and I have a tendency to hang onto
some things. For example, he still has a pair of working Commodore 64
computers from the early 1980's, as well as an estimated 1,400+
hardcover books. He's recently gone through some record albums that he
hasn't listened to in over 12 years, and was able to part with perhaps
40% of them. So that's progress.

I'd call that a good start with the records, but if space is at such a premium, you can do more.