I don't know what part of the country you live in. Fine fescues do not withstand heavy traffic. Mowing height is important if you are limited to only 4 hours per day of full sun. The recommended mowing height would be no lower than 3 inches as the longer the blade, the larger the leaf surface is that captures sunlight this will help the lawn do better. Watch the watering too much is not good. If you want a fine bladed lawn you can plant the fine bladed sod and later you can over seed with kentucky blue grass to help the lawn self mend, but you will have to wait 3 months before seeding as the sod grower used a post emergence weed control that will prevent seedlings from germinating. If later you do not like the fine bladed lawn you can overseed with the wider bladed fescue. There is a fescue you may want to look into, grown by pacific sod in california called medallion extreme.

Okay, hold on. I had to check out this phenom grass seed. What. A. SCAM. Let's look at what's in it: TEN PERCENT KY BLUEGRASS. They measure those percentages by weight, not the number of seeds. Bluegrass seeds are WAY tinier than fescue seeds, so your TTTF mix will actually turn out to be, what? Thirty or forty percent bluegrass? TEN PERCENT RYEGRASS. The most disease prone of all the cool-season grasses, added to commercial mixes because it germinates very fast and makes people feel happy. SIXTY PERCENT of two types of fescue. they don't say what the remaining 20% is. So your 10% ryegrass will germinate very quickly -- yayy! Then your 60% fescue will come in. Finally, if there is any room left or any sunlight available to the soil; surface, your 10% bluegrass will germinate. Or not. There might already be too much competition. In any case, your bluegrass in that mix will never produce roots that go down that deep. Never ever ever.

Dear Rae E, Thank you very much for your inquiry. Tall fescue can be a wonderful lawn grass, especially in the transition zone. There could be several problems going on here that are promoting your issues. First, keep the mowing height at 3-4 inches and mow every 5-6 days. Second, fertilize with a turf specific fertilizers, 4-5 times per year, with a target of 4 lbs N/1000 ft2/year (this can decrease after a couple of years once the turf is mature). Make sure you always put down starter fertilizer with the seed. The corn gluten meal for weed control is not effective on many broadleaf weeds. For this, use triclopyr. You can knock the weed back now, but target early October as well for an application. Again, thanks for the question and let me know if you have more. Respectfully Trey Rogers, The Briggs & Stratton Yard Doctor, YardDoctor.com

Any brand is fine, really, just look for something with 0 noxious weed seeds and a very low number/percentage of other weed and crop seeds (you usually won't find 0 other weed/crop seeds, but it does get pretty close in good brands). Pennington and the like tends to be better than Scotts', but also a bit pricier. So although the bang is better, the buck is also higher. Specialty fescues are going to bang much higher, and the buck is also going to be far higher. It just depends on where your aim is. Since you're looking for a dark fescue as per your previous message, I'd do some research. You may actually want to go specialty and spend a bit more for a nicer, darker lawn. Ultimately, that was my decision; I went with a spendy seed that resulted, in the end run, with me doing practically no work years later--I chose incredibly dark green Kentucky bluegrass that repairs itself. Fescue won't do that, though, and will require some reseeding occasionally even with perfect treatment and well-balanced soil. Which is the next point. For a good seed and a good lawn, get a soil test. I tend to recommend Logan Labs. Spend the summer before reseeding fixing the soil and getting it correct--good soils grow good lawns. Bad soils won't grow dark green, healthy lawns. Period. And if you go with a darker grass, nuke the K-31 in July with RoundUp for an August reseeding. You won't like it mixing with the new, dark, and much finer fescue. K-31 is, in a word, trash. Any good, dark fescue is also going to be much finer-bladed and the old stuff will stand out like a sore thumb.